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phoenixdownita

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phoenixdownita last won the day on April 14 2016

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  1. Maybe this? https://github.com/CTurt/FreeDVDBoot PlayStation 2 DVD Player Exploit. This allows you to burn your own PlayStation 2 homebrew discs and play them on an unmodified console as seen in the demo video. With uLaunchELF as the initial program, users can include multiple homebrew programs on the same disc. For technical details please refer to my blog post. Read from here if you have a Slim PS2. Read from here if you have a Phat PS2.
  2. https://retrogamecoders.com/introduction-to-trse-programming/ link to the actual thing https://lemonspawn.com/turbo-rascal-syntax-error-expected-but-begin/
  3. Brilliant… just ordered one set … my plastic things have broken off the little pegs so it may not work in the end but they are cheap with cheap shipping so worth a try.
  4. Right hand side, click on Releases” and then download.
  5. Wrt og Xbox there were tons of games 480p and 30-40 at 720p all via the official component cable …check it out https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:Games_with_Alternate_Display_Modes (pal land saw none of it as component was not really a thing) as we know the Dreamcast had the vga box, the gc the digital cable (removed in dol101), and even the ps2 had component support in quite a few games as well https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps2/Games_With_Alternative_Display_Modes . You are right that hi-def proper is 360/ps3 territory … even if for proper 1080p we had to wait until one/ps4 … but still the change in supported resolution was obvious already (240p was basically the same since the 80s … Coleco, nes, genesis, snes, pce, ps1 , n64 and Saturn are all 240p machines … couple exception games for ps1, Saturn, n64 but the uptick in gfx res is on the next gen)
  6. Oh … I am not gonna defend any of these elcheapo converters that were mostly meant for connecting old vhs/dvd players to watch movies as such lag is irrelevant as long as the audio is in sync. They can be bad, just that at a certain point the longer the lag the more the memory needed to buffer … unless as you say they drop half the frames … but to be fair a ntsc 480i signal like for the movies does have only 30 frames split into odd/even fields so if the converter does realistically 30fps progressive out of it it ain’t wrong necessarily (it can present the same deinterlaced image twice to achieve 60hz and be “right”) … we all know the 240p60 of old consoles was an “ingenious trick” to keep cost down. (By deinterlacing 2:1 and presenting it twice I can see easily 4 240p frames of lag aka 66 msec, the current deinterlaced image and the next one… sort of double buffer current/next)
  7. Anything twitchy (last minute avoidance of shots/punches/attacks/bombs etc...) that you used to play on CRT and you know you are very good at ... if this was the NES then Mike Tyson's Punch Out is the obvious test. For a 7800 I would think that Galaga (acing the bonus rounds) and probably Food Fight may be good tests, in 2600 mode Kaboom is likely a good indicator, but to be fair the 2600 has its own issues wrt HDMI conversions, still if you are up to it it's worth a shot as well (I'd try also Phoenix 2600 as lag there would make it much harder, especially in the ufo base level). Usually this type of el-cheapo converter adds at least 1 frame of latency at times 2 or more so 17 to 33 msec (the 250msec mentioned above seems way out there to me as that is 15 frames of lag ... cause that would require a lot of buffers or entail tons of stuttering but it can be pretty bad indeed), plus the judder/stutter inherent in this kind of conversion. For many games it's irrelevant if they allow plenty of reaction time, but if dodging at the last second or twitchy gameplay is the main course then too much added latency and the game becomes extremely hard if not outright impossible (aka you'll die a whole lot more than you remember and no, it's not just because it's been 40 years since [even if that plays a part]).
  8. Keep in mind the Retrotink 2x and mini are line doublers as such the output frequency follows closely the input one and some TV don’t like non strict hdmi signals … the 7800 is one of those console with a weird analog signal but far from being the only one. It may have gotten better with more recent TVs but it’s a draw of luck … I don’t think there is a list of TVs <-> console-mod combo to tell you what works and what doesn’t… the elcheapo hdmi converters are full frame buffer so the out signal is usually hdmi conformant alas they add one or more frames of lag and also some stutter (at times they have to drop or repeat a frame) … even the retrotink 5x in triple buffer mode does that but it is the only mode that works 100% … the other 5x modes (low lag/direct) are back to relying on the TV accepting out of spec hdmi signals. TV were supposed to handle VRR by now but I have not followed and not sure what limitations that entails. HDMI used to require 60hz sharp (I think but I heard some monitor/TV handle also 59.94 which was the old NTSC std refresh rate) but consoles can be all over the place ( check https://www.neo-geo.com/forums/index.php?threads/neo-geo-aes-ntsc-refresh-rate.220691/ for AES/MVS numbers just for fun).
  9. The MCP is a region free device as well so original JP games will work, as well as original EU (bar the few that were PAL optimized and may show some issues on NTSC machines). I have 2 of them, one reflashed with PSKai … not that I need it because my 2 Saturn have modchips and region free bios … still PSKai would allow MCP play backups in case (but it looses the memcard feature) … for PSKai an AR is a better donor at least it keeps the extra RAM functionality on that one. https://ppcenter.webou.net/pskai/
  10. No converter for Jag controllers? Or the SNES NTT data pad? Or the famicom network controller? They all have at least 2 fire buttons and a full keypad, not sure how complex the protocol translation ought to be … the collectorvision phoenix could use the ntt snes one if memory serves but maybe it’s not protocol translation.
  11. Yesterday I fixed my CV after it started to display video in tinges of yellow/brown a few years ago … been busy so couldn’t fix it earlier. Anyhow fyi my CV has the 5v ram fix, the composite AV mod via 318 opamp and l modified the power to use 3 elcheapo wall chargers to generate 12/5/-5 internally (the chargers pcbs sit inside the case at the front left, just before the controller bays, can even see the 3 leds from the grille when connected to mains). I have 2 std controllers but one is a little shot and I don’t enjoy using the working one either, also have 2 sac again one shot and not enjoying using the working one much at all. Is there any modern controller replacement for the CV? I was hoping in not too expensive options. Are the white Adam ones any better?
  12. What was that meme about opinions and assholes and everyone having one? Why is this thing still going? There’s no Amico … simple as that (points if you get the citation).
  13. Are you planning a CPU update? as for I mean a "mere" 100$ more at that point ....
  14. I just recently started playing again with my GC … it basically sat unused in a container for almost 8y. I bought it very late when I started collecting videogames consoles but only had a handful of games for it and the gbplayer. Anyhow I had lying around a xenogc bought long ago but never installed … until last week. It worked and came with the xenoshell 1.05 firmware… I installed it because I wanted to try gbi … alas my gc did not like mini cdr … or so I thought … turns out it was fine once it heated up (went from red error box to just booting, I could reproduce it at will, once warm it would boot mini cdr all the time)… of course I since performed the pot adjustment and now it boots mini cdr 100% without needing to warm up. Anyway I found out there’s an updated fw for xenogc that can run xeno.dol from the MC (can be any dol with that name … like Swiss)… and it does but it seems it only works for the smaller MC … a 1019 and 2043 did not work but a 251 did (all unofficial cheap knockoff). There is another xenogc fw version that allegedly can run Swiss.dol from sd (sp2 as well but I only have a DOL-101) but when I tried that fw the disc stops working (even with original), I managed to reflash back to “MC xeno.dol” fw by starting with the chip off, recognize an original, switch the chip on, put the Swiss disc in, it then boots it and then reflash (I thought I bricked my xenogc for good). So now I can boot Swiss via mini cdr or with any bootable disc by pressing start/z with the 251 MC with the xeno.dol in … neat! And of course I had an unopened wiisd around since about a decade as well so via Swiss I can play many games that way too, aka no need to burn mini cdr. Was wondering if anyone got the “sd Swiss.dol” fw working, may as well boot from sd if possible vs MC due to the size issue above.
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