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A sticky situation with batteries


Spector

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So I get some 2700Nimh rechargeables for my Lynx 1. Those of you with the original machine will remember how the six batteries are accessed in a rather awkward way. There are two that get pushed deep into the console and four that are visible when you open the battery compartment.

 

I throw in 6 AA Nimhs thinking, "boy, these are tight." And having taken the four visible ones out later on, I find that the two in the case are stuck! And because they are deep inside, I can't get the bloody things out again! Oh s**t.

 

Any experienced Lynxers out there got an idea as to how I'm gonna get those little fellas out of there? Cause I've ran out of ideas already... :x

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I'd cut the plastic off the batteries if that happened to me. My preference is the Radio Shack brand, which I think are rebranded Duracells.

Given that you probably bought the set specifically to use with the Lynx, there shouldn't be any confusion as they'll only be out of the Lynx when they are charging.

 

I'm curious as to what sort of run time you get. I know that my portables are far different from the Lynx, but with a similar type of battery, I'm curious as to how my Gear and my Game Boys stack up. They get roughly 12 hours of run time average.

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I'd cut the plastic off the batteries if that happened to me. My preference is the Radio Shack brand, which I think are rebranded Duracells.

 

Cut the plastic off the batteries? Isn't that dangerous? It sounds tempting, and it's true that the width of the batteries is my problem as much as the length, but I don't know how safe that would be.

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Question, then:

 

Does the Lynx I have a plastic "wall" separating the two rows of batteries, or does it have a small divider like most battery operated devices? As long as the plastic completely separates the two rows of batteries, you're perfectly safe.

In fact, I've seen NiCd batteries manufactured with part of that plastic insulation missing on purpose.

 

The idea is that you'll only use them in the Lynx. They'll go from the charger directly to the Lynx and back, never anywhere else. I can say from experience with other power sucking portables that 2700 mAh will negate the need to carry a spare set in your pocket.

The only two you have to cut are the ones that go deep into the Lynx.

On the other hand, if the Lynx I does separate the rows like I've described, you might be able to cut the "wall" out, giving the batteries room to move in and out of their slots.

 

Just a disclaimer, though I've worked with all kinds of batteries, I've never even seen a Lynx I. So you might be taking advice from someone who knows nothing about the product! :o

 

Hey wait...I just thought of something. What's the output on the Lynx power adapter? I'd think it's 9 VDC just like the Game Gear ones. If that's the case, a Game Gear PowerBack or a kidney pack could be used with the Lynx I. Although they'd certainly need to be rebuilt with new NiCd batteries, they aren't too difficult to find.

Edited by shadow460
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Well, how thick is this plastic around these batteries? If it's a lot, then perhaps you can cut it off, and use electrical tape to wrap them, to keep them from shorting in non devided battery chambers. But if it's pretty thin, then it won't work, as electrical tape is fairly thick as tapes go.

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Question, then:

 

Does the Lynx I have a plastic "wall" separating the two rows of batteries, or does it have a small divider like most battery operated devices? As long as the plastic completely separates the two rows of batteries, you're perfectly safe.

In fact, I've seen NiCd batteries manufactured with part of that plastic insulation missing on purpose.

 

The idea is that you'll only use them in the Lynx. They'll go from the charger directly to the Lynx and back, never anywhere else. I can say from experience with other power sucking portables that 2700 mAh will negate the need to carry a spare set in your pocket.

The only two you have to cut are the ones that go deep into the Lynx.

On the other hand, if the Lynx I does separate the rows like I've described, you might be able to cut the "wall" out, giving the batteries room to move in and out of their slots.

 

That's something I didn't think of before, that I'd only need to cut the two batteries at the bottom. I read your pm as well, which was interesting, particularly the bit about NiCd batteries. Are you saying that if I overcharge a NiCD battery by mistake (ie charge for 4 hours when only 2 hours is needed), it will turn the overcharge into heat, and it won't result in a burst battery? If so, then that's good news, as it means I can take more risks.

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funny story i had a remote for a sattelite tv box and i always thought the remote took 2 batterys it seems like i had to change the batterys every couple months then it stopped working all together i spoted some white crystals on the batterys i took out so i shook the remote and was tapping it on the table and an origional heavy duty factory battery released man it was crust cityi was able to shove in a coathanger to kind of twang the negative spring clean of the white crud

 

man i felt like such a retard

 

yea rechargeables are sometimes thick with their shrinkwrap i'm not putting batterys in mine i use a batt pack i made

 

lynx 1 is good but man it hurts my thumb i like how it feels substantial

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yea rechargeables are sometimes thick with their shrinkwrap i'm not putting batterys in mine i use a batt pack i made

 

Yeah, there's quiet a few Lynx Battery packs out there you can buy that use D cells (I actually used one for on the go during a weekend out of town. That thing runs WAY longer than internal AA's do. Hey, if AA lithiom batteries are that much better, imagine some D cell versions :P

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You can take the unit apart. The battery pack comes apart from the regular shell and you can get to the batteries easily. No need to cut at the plastic!!!!!!

 

Be carefull removing the case though, because there are a lot of little pieces that fall out quickly and are not tied down in any way.

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Are you saying that if I overcharge a NiCD battery by mistake (ie charge for 4 hours when only 2 hours is needed), it will turn the overcharge into heat, and it won't result in a burst battery? If so, then that's good news, as it means I can take more risks.

 

If the charger has a current limiter, the risk of the cell bursting is greatly reduced. Even under normal charging, there's always a small risk of the cells bursting.

Don't try this with NiMH, though. You have to have the current limiter and the thermal fuses. they get quite a bit hotter than NiCd cells do. That heat could damage the Lynx, and it will damage the cells.

 

When I charge my Game Gear, I only leave it on the power supply for a set amount of time, and I check the temp of the cells, too.

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You can take the unit apart. The battery pack comes apart from the regular shell and you can get to the batteries easily. No need to cut at the plastic!!!!!!

 

Be carefull removing the case though, because there are a lot of little pieces that fall out quickly and are not tied down in any way.

That would be good for a one time shot. But I think that would be a bad Idea for a regular thing.

 

Of course, how regular I guess depends on how often you play the thing and need to swap the batteries.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I don't know how the batteries are placed in Lynx 1, but you can try to put a screwdrive inbetween two of the batteries and try to wip one of them (in each row) out. When you get one out, then you usually get the rest out too.

Woops, that was if all the batteries are stuck. My suggestion in your place is to open the shell, and then remove the batteries.

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The home-ec solution: tape some flat ribbon to those two batteries so that you can pull them back out. This depends on there being enough width tocram taped batteries in there (but for a slight savings of space, you could lash the two deep antiparallel batteries together).

My rechargables have always fit fine (Rayovac 2100 mAh NiMH from several years ago, I think).

-Eric

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