IndusGT Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 (edited) While I was on vacation, decided to try my hand at restoring a white brick. Got some some Krylon Fusion paint for plastic and this is how it came out, before and after: I'm thinking of doing an 800 XL next. Anyone got any other pictures of their restorations? Edited March 31, 2007 by IndusGT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Guitarman Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 What color did you use?? It would be the same for the XL's, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross PK Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 (edited) Nice job. I think you should have left the Atari logo as it was though. I've not really restored much or done anything that big, but I've... Fixed my Desmonds Dungeon cassette case, it fell apart when you opened it, so I glued the plastic pin in place and it now opens and closes fine. The flap on my Journey To The Planets box had fallen apart and bits of it were ripped, so I glued it all back into place. Part of the label on my Popeye cart had come loose, so I glued that down. I replaced the none working Nuclear Nick tape with a new Nuclear Nick tape and put it in the none working Nuclear Nick cassette case. Edited March 31, 2007 by Ross PK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndusGT Posted March 31, 2007 Author Share Posted March 31, 2007 You can see them here: http://www.krylon.com/main/product_templat...product_details I used Gloss White #2320. It's the closest color to our Ataris they have, and I really think it looks better. Could not leave the logo since the colors did not matc, I put the 810 logo on the brick because the paint bubbled slightly in that area. I had though about using a Dymo transparent label, as well, that would be the closest match to the original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 (edited) There seems to be a bunch of restoration threads appearing I've just finished restoring a 65XE http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?s...p;#entry1267443 also I'm part way through restoring some 800XL's which were in a terrible state.. here's a before and after photo... the motherboard is still being repaired... I'll post some tips later tonight in this new thread http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=104583 that's appeared today.. I have many Edited March 31, 2007 by Tezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 they have got to be different machines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Guitarman Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 (edited) There seems to be a bunch of restoration threads appearing I've just finished restoring a 65XE http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?s...p;#entry1267443 also I'm part way through restoring some 800XL's which were in a terrible state.. here's a before and after photo... the motherboard is still being repaired... I'll post some tips later tonight in this new thread http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=104583 that's appeared today.. I have many That is very close to the condition of the 1040ST I spoke of in the other thread I started. Killer job!!!!!! Edited March 31, 2007 by Guitarman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 (edited) they have got to be different machines The only thing swapped was the clear panel next to the consol keys because it was cracked at the bottom. Luckily the totally trashed xl i got had a clear panel in one piece. It was badly scratched and scuffed so here's tip #1: These clear panels can be brought back like new with a cutting compound.. The best thing to use is jewelers rouge which is basically a cutting/polishing paste jewels use to take out scratches on for instance watch faces.. The easiest way is using a polishing disc attachment on a grinder but there is a simple home made alternative which is the way I did it... This is simply T-cut ! yes the car paint cutting compound, it works really well on clear plastic.. The first time i tried it i was amazed just how well it did work. It takes a bit of scrubing depending on how scratched it is but it doesn't take an age either way, it took me about 30 minutes to get it like new... Here's a photo of the finished panel below... btw the easiest way to get the panel out without breaking it is using an old credit card. Thats something I use a lot with mobile phone covers repairs and laptop casings. It works very well. The biggest problem with the xl's I always found was the waring of the silver consol keys. The xl's i got were badly treated and badly stored (stacked up by the look of it) so the silver trim on the xl's case was also scratched .. tip #2 I removed the trim and consol keys carefully from the xl. the trim is thin aluminium glued in place so you have to be carefull not to bend and warp it taking it off. I used a surgical scalpul to ease it off flat... the trim has a brush metal finish to it which makes the restoration job pretty simple... I use a sanding sponge to rebrush the surface taking out the scratches and ware marks and reglued the trim back in place. The transformation is great The xl's case was taken totally apart, the cartridge flaps were removed and kept to one side. The dark brown and beige sections of the top case are two parts that snap together so these can be cleaned properly when taken apart. I soaked them both in hot water and bleech. The casing of the xl is pretty hard waring so usually stands up to more abuse than others more later Edited March 31, 2007 by Tezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Guitarman Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 they have got to be different machines The only thing swapped was the clear panel next to the consol keys because it was cracked at the bottom. Luckily the totally trashed xl i got had a clear panel in one piece. It was badly scratched and scuffed so here's tip #1: These clear panels can be brought back like new with a cutting compound.. The best thing to use is jewelers rouge which is basically a cutting/polishing paste jewels use to take out scratches on for instance watch faces.. The easiest way is using a polishing disc attachment on a grinder but there is a simple home made alternative which is the way I did it... This is simply T-cut ! yes the car paint cutting compound, it works really well on clear plastic.. The first time i tried it i was amazed just how well it did work. It takes a bit of scrubing depending on how scratched it is but it doesn't take an age either way, it took me about 30 minutes to get it like new... Here's a photo of the finished panel below... btw the easiest way to get the panel out without breaking it is using an old credit card. Thats something I use a lot with mobile phone covers repairs and laptop casings. It works very well. The biggest problem with the xl's I always found was the waring of the silver consol keys. The xl's i got were badly treated and badly stored (stacked up by the look of it) so the silver trim on the xl's case was also scratched .. tip #2 I removed the trim and consol keys carefully from the xl. the trim is thin aluminium glued in place so you have to be carefull not to bend and warp it taking it off. I used a surgical scalpul to ease it off flat... the trim has a brush metal finish to it which makes the restoration job pretty simple... I use a sanding sponge to rebrush the surface taking out the scratches and ware marks and reglued the trim back in place. The transformation is great The xl's case was taken totally apart, the cartridge flaps were removed and kept to one side. The dark brown and beige sections of the top case are two parts that snap together so these can be cleaned properly when taken apart. I soaked them both in hot water and bleech. The casing of the xl is pretty hard waring so usually stands up to more abuse than others more later LOL Wrong thread!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 LOL Wrong thread!!!Oops, so many threads! it's been a long day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Guitarman Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 LOL Wrong thread!!!Oops, so many threads! it's been a long day I added it to the other thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 I finally got around to finishing some of the repairs to the 800xl's last night/this morning. (They were the ones i bought all doa and in pretty bad shape) So far now then, two of the four are now fully working and also restored and looking good They were both simply bad ram so it was an easy fix with these first two. I bought a new solder iron this morning and socketed the xl so much faster than before, I realise now that most of my difficulties were with my crappy equipment. Anyway, the main reason for posting again here however is for another bit of advice... I just noticed whilst fully testing the two I repaired that the "2" key is not working on one of them so I'm gonna need to dismantle the keyboard to check it out... What should I be looking for first? Will it be likely a broken track on the pcb? Is it easy to diagnose and repair? also another thing I've be meaning to ask about is detaching the consol keys so that they can be restored easier and maybe also realigned again... that's something that's always bugged me with the xl's when the consol keys are all misaligned, it really spoils the appearance... I've not taken that close a look at the xl's keyboard when i've been working on them, do the consol keys clip off easily? What's the best way to do that without damaging them? Hopefully we can add the answers to these questions the restoration tips thread also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
re-atari Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 I finally got around to finishing some of the repairs to the 800xl's last night/this morning. (They were the ones i bought all doa and in pretty bad shape) So far now then, two of the four are now fully working and also restored and looking good They were both simply bad ram so it was an easy fix with these first two. I bought a new solder iron this morning and socketed the xl so much faster than before, I realise now that most of my difficulties were with my crappy equipment. Anyway, the main reason for posting again here however is for another bit of advice... I just noticed whilst fully testing the two I repaired that the "2" key is not working on one of them so I'm gonna need to dismantle the keyboard to check it out... What should I be looking for first? Will it be likely a broken track on the pcb? Is it easy to diagnose and repair? also another thing I've be meaning to ask about is detaching the consol keys so that they can be restored easier and maybe also realigned again... that's something that's always bugged me with the xl's when the consol keys are all misaligned, it really spoils the appearance... I've not taken that close a look at the xl's keyboard when i've been working on them, do the consol keys clip off easily? What's the best way to do that without damaging them? Hopefully we can add the answers to these questions the restoration tips thread also Good to hear you are making good progress both in reviving A8's and in your skill in reviving them. Good craftsmanship stands or falls with the proper tools (and a bit of advice from y'r fellows, of course ). As to your keyboard, I doubt it is a trace on the PCB or the foil that's pestering you. Normally when a trace is cut, a group of keys will fail. In your case it could well be that this single key just isn't making good contact due to dirt or oxidation. I think I read a recent post where one of the members wrote he got a non-functioning key working again by pressing it about 10 times. By the sound of it, that was enough to clean the contacts inside the key. When you say 'console keys' I take it you mean the 5 silver square keycaps? I did remove those on one of my keyboards about a year ago, and it is a simple and straightforward action. You just put a flat screwdriver on two opposite sides of a keycap and pry it off. They should go quite easily. I do remember I once pulled the caps off the keys on one of my keyboards in order to clean out all the dust and cats' hairs, but I can't remember exactly how I removed them. I think I forced them off with a flat screwdriver as well, but I'm not sure. Anyone else willing to chip in? re-atari Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 As to your keyboard, I doubt it is a trace on the PCB or the foil that's pestering you. Normally when a trace is cut, a group of keys will fail. In your case it could well be that this single key just isn't making good contact due to dirt or oxidation. I think I read a recent post where one of the members wrote he got a non-functioning key working again by pressing it about 10 times. By the sound of it, that was enough to clean the contacts inside the key. When you say 'console keys' I take it you mean the 5 silver square keycaps? I did remove those on one of my keyboards about a year ago, and it is a simple and straightforward action. You just put a flat screwdriver on two opposite sides of a keycap and pry it off. They should go quite easily. I do remember I once pulled the caps off the keys on one of my keyboards in order to clean out all the dust and cats' hairs, but I can't remember exactly how I removed them. I think I forced them off with a flat screwdriver as well, but I'm not sure. Anyone else willing to chip in? re-atari Thanks for the advice again, glad to hear that the key problem is probably nothing more serious than bad contact I'll take a look at that in the morning after repeatedly pressing it I would guess now you've explained it, it's most likely to be caused by a dirty connection, preventing it from making contact or it could well be oxydisation as they have possibly been stored in a garage or shed (i would guess looking at their condition) the xl's were certainly not well treated or stored (and for an undetermined time) in any case. I'll also carefully pry off the consol keys (yes btw i did mean the reset, option, select, start and help keys) Unfortunately one of the 4 xl's I got is beyond saving, bizarly like the other one I photographed it was covered in coloured stickers which has protected the keys to a degree from the usual ware, they look as though they should clean up well. The third xl is not booting yet, luckily it is socketed so shouldn't be too difficult to diagnose. it doesn't appear to be the ram on this one as i've swapped it out with brand new 41256's again. the dead xl was also socketd but so far nothing but cosmetic parts have been salvagable.. the ram was all dead and i'm not sure about the other ic's either.. time will tell with that one but either way it'll live to see another day. Thanks again, Tezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+kheller2 Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 You can see them here: http://www.krylon.com/main/product_templat...product_details I used Gloss White #2320. It's the closest color to our Ataris they have, and I really think it looks better. Could not leave the logo since the colors did not matc, I put the 810 logo on the brick because the paint bubbled slightly in that area. I had though about using a Dymo transparent label, as well, that would be the closest match to the original. The gloss white was closer than the dove white? Anybody have a close match to the xl brown color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndusGT Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 You can see them here: http://www.krylon.com/main/product_templat...product_details I used Gloss White #2320. It's the closest color to our Ataris they have, and I really think it looks better. Could not leave the logo since the colors did not matc, I put the 810 logo on the brick because the paint bubbled slightly in that area. I had though about using a Dymo transparent label, as well, that would be the closest match to the original. The gloss white was closer than the dove white? Anybody have a close match to the xl brown color? That's the closest to XL white. It gives it an Ipod feel to it. One of these days I'll do the computer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carmel_andrews Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Tezz. if it's an XL keyboard....FORGET IT, XL keyboards are cheap and nasty, even worse then XE keyboards The only prob. with the XE KB was that Atari put in the wrong value resistor to work the keyboard, which is why you should replace the resistor with the correct value one immediately or replace the placcy KB membrane after 12 months use (you'll have to unscrew the back of the XE KB for that) Sounds as though the back of the XL KB is cracked (XL's used cheapo placcy PCB's which are prone to cracking after prolonged use) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beetle Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 XL keyboards are cheap and nasty, even worse then XE keyboards Oh, be not that fast with your judgement. There are many different XL keyboards of very different quality, too. Look for the new thread i will start in some minutes. It will be a surprise for many people, i promise. Greets, Beetle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
re-atari Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Thanks for the advice again, glad to hear that the key problem is probably nothing more serious than bad contact I'll take a look at that in the morning after repeatedly pressing it I would guess now you've explained it, it's most likely to be caused by a dirty connection, preventing it from making contact or it could well be oxydisation as they have possibly been stored in a garage or shed (i would guess looking at their condition) the xl's were certainly not well treated or stored (and for an undetermined time) in any case. I'll also carefully pry off the consol keys (yes btw i did mean the reset, option, select, start and help keys) Unfortunately one of the 4 xl's I got is beyond saving, bizarly like the other one I photographed it was covered in coloured stickers which has protected the keys to a degree from the usual ware, they look as though they should clean up well. The third xl is not booting yet, luckily it is socketed so shouldn't be too difficult to diagnose. it doesn't appear to be the ram on this one as i've swapped it out with brand new 41256's again. the dead xl was also socketd but so far nothing but cosmetic parts have been salvagable.. the ram was all dead and i'm not sure about the other ic's either.. time will tell with that one but either way it'll live to see another day. Tezz, Let me know about your progress with dismantling the keycaps. They are obviously pressed in to avoid them flying around the room when you release the key (I have a homebrew clone Apple II that does just that ), but should give with only a moderate amount of force. Don't overstress it, or you might snap the keycap at its socket. If you don't succeed I'll have a go at my keyboard. I did it once, why not do it again... I'd start by swapping the CPU's, the Mexico manufactured ones are known to occasionally fail. And by all means keep the XL that's beyond saving, use it as a source of spare parts! It doesn't take up a lot of space, and spares always come in handy. As a rule of thumb you always need a spare part when none is available. re-atari Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Let me know about your progress with dismantling the keycaps. They are obviously pressed in to avoid them flying around the room when you release the key (I have a homebrew clone Apple II that does just that ), but should give with only a moderate amount of force. Don't overstress it, or you might snap the keycap at its socket. If you don't succeed I'll have a go at my keyboard. I did it once, why not do it again... I'd start by swapping the CPU's, the Mexico manufactured ones are known to occasionally fail. And by all means keep the XL that's beyond saving, use it as a source of spare parts! It doesn't take up a lot of space, and spares always come in handy. As a rule of thumb you always need a spare part when none is available. re-atari I'll let you know how I get on with the keyboard, I was intending to do it tonight but time and work has got the better of me I'll have to be extra carefull taking the caps off, I know from working on other keyboards (non Atari) in the past that it's pretty easy to break them. The ST (and prob XE) keyboards have those white clips under the keys which do damage easily, (I have several of them to repair here too... wonder where to get those missing clips from??) I guess i'll have a look at the dead and destroyed xl's keyboard to examine it further so i can see the mechanics of it Thanks for the tip with the cpu, it is one of the Mexico manufactured cpu's, i've pulled all the ic's from the dead xl but the ram in that xl was all dead so i don't know if the other chips have suffered the same fate? Piggybacking isn't an option with the major chips, i tried swapping around the socketed ic's but no luck with that so far, i think the cpu is soldered isn't it? I can't remember now (long day) if so, I'll will need to desolder and socket it to test it with another. Don't worry, I won't trash the dead xl. i was thinking about a burrial at sea (lol) just kidding.. i'll certainly keep it for parts or maybe a miracle repair one day. Regards, Tezz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 I took at look at the xl keyboard yesterday, the key caps do just litterally pop off lifted evenly on both sides. the consol keys come off the same way and i'm about to restore them next.. under the keycaps on the xl, there's the square contact/button which has a plastic casing...I was in a rush this weekend so didn't get chance to look at it properly.. it looks as though it clips off on the left and right side? is that right? I need to take the (um.. key switch?) apart to see inside and clean the contact point on that faulty key.. I can see the two solder points underneith the pcb for each key so I hope that i can take the casing of the switch apart and it's not a just a complete sealed part that I would need to desolder? .. I guess I could do that if i need to, I have an old 600xl keyboard for spares (it was smashed and had a cracked pcb... another badly treated xl i found ) Any advice on the inner workings of the xl keyboard would be appreciated. Regards to all, Tezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 (edited) another question on a different subject from the post above, I finally got all my Atari gear out of storage today I was surprised how much it had aged and yellowed I stored them very well and out of the light..hmm anyway I was looking at my 1050 which is styled for the xl range and looks out of place with the XE, (that always bugged me when I updated to the XE)... seeing as it was discoloured too I decided to paint it with the same grey primer I used to restore the XE so that it will fit together. I had always intended to get an xf551 when I got my 130Xe in 1989 to replace my 800xl but was put off with reports of unreliability, I always prefered the 1050 anyway.. Reason for posting... I was wondering if the "Atari 1050" silver name strip was available to buy at Best Electronics or someplace else? My original was removed many years ago as it was peeling up at the edges and was all scratched up.. I wish i would've fixed it back down in place back then instead of throwing it out can you pick these up anywhere? It'd be cool to finish off the new paint job with Edited April 15, 2007 by Tezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+kheller2 Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Pics!! Got pics of that XE 1050? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Pics!! Got pics of that XE 1050? Beat me to it, I need one for my 130XE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Paint should be all dry tomorrow.. and the pics will be here right then too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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