anyone know where I can get a Sears Video Arcade II power supply?

[RickHarrisMaine]

This is also the Atari 2800, basically....

 

Anyone know where I can find this?

[Prodos8]

I always assumed it used the same one as the VCS.

[elliott]

An NES power brick works great, so does the one for a Jaguar. I think the one for the SMS and Genesis 1 will work too. Just about anything AC or DC, close to 9 volts with the right plug will work, polarity doesn't matter.

 

Before anyone says it:

I am fully aware that the NES power brick is AC, the SVA II and 2800 were designed for AC, they have the rectifier bridge to convert it to DC inside. I have one and have run it problem free for months on an NES power brick.

Edited January 31, 2008 by elliott

[Classic Chrispy]

I thought that Sears Video Arcade II was the Intellivision....

[elliott]

I thought that Sears Video Arcade II was the Intellivision....

That was the Sears Super Video Arcade.

[MMyers]

Go to Radio Shack and look for the AT&T answring machine power supply - it's the only one that is alternating current while all the other adapters are direct.

 

This is important because it will not work right unless you get an alternate current adapter.

Set it to 9 volts (it goes from 9-12) and the adapter fits the right MA -750 This one has 800. Don't worry that it says only AT&T , it will work.

[elliott]

This is important because it will not work right unless you get an alternate current adapter.

Set it to 9 volts (it goes from 9-12) and the adapter fits the right MA -750 This one has 800. Don't worry that it says only AT&T , it will work.

A Sears Video Arcade II will run fine on AC or DC, it makes absolutely no difference, there is no component inside that actually requires AC. The first thing after the socket on the circuit is a rectifier bridge, this converts AC to DC and DC will pass through one just fine with no ill effects, it even has the nice effect of correcting polarity for you, tip positive and tip negative doesn't matter when using DC on a SVAII.

Edited August 19, 2008 by elliott

[MMyers]

Sorry to disagree with you but I tried a Direct current adapter on this system and my Space Shuttle game crashed and half of my games showed red where it shouldn't have been or simply had trouble keeping the color.

 

 

Like Pitfall- have you ever seen a red jungle in that game? Since getting this new adapter that's ALTERNATING current they all work fine. I'm telling you, I've seen what happens and I'm sure if I kept using the DIRECT current one it would have eventually fried the system.

[elliott]

I used a Jaguar power supply for over 6 months on mine, no ill effects what so ever. If you were having problems, you may have had a faulty or improper power supply, like wrong voltage or not enough amperage. Everything important inside the system is seeing 5v of DC current anyway, no matter what the power supply is. It is just a matter of whether it is rectified in the adapter before entering the system, or if it is rectified in the system's own diode array. Rectifying it twice doesn't hurt anything. A normal Atari doesn't have this rectifier bridge, so it requires DC coming from the adapter, AC will fry a normal Atari.

 

If you feel I am wrong, get out your multimeter, prove to me it needs AC current. Show me somewhere on the board, after the 4 diode rectifier bridge that shows AC voltage. For the longest time after I got mine, I didn't even know the original adapter was AC, I always used DC. Someone mentioned using an NES power brick, which is AC, I called them out on it, but I did some investigating of my own and found the rectifier bridge. If you really don't believe me, I'll get out my multimeter and camera, I'll show you that no matter what goes into mine, 9 volts of AC or DC, 5 volts of pure DC still comes out of the 7805 voltage regulator, which is all that matters.

 

I've repaired quite a few Atari's, I have a good idea of what makes them tick, the SVA II is a little odd, but it is essentially a 4 switch with some added circuitry for the fancy LED's and buttons. It has the exact same needs as a 4 switch, 5 volts of DC current.

Edited August 23, 2008 by elliott

[MMyers]

All I can tell you is what I've seen. Both adapters were new - 9 volt 800 MA from Radio Shack. One worked well, one didn't.

 

The only reason why I posted a reply was because I had the same problem as the person who posted this question, and I figured I could help.

 

I had this system since it was new and it worked great for many years, but then the adapter stopped working and I tried a DIRECT current adapter and while the system worked, half the games looked wrong(River Raid, Pitfall,Dragonfire) - red in places I should have seen green or murky to the point I couldn't make out some of the graphics - (Star Trek, Crypts of Chaos).

 

Then there was Space Shuttle - the game is supposed to count to 128 from the shuttle to the satellite so you can start docking procedures, but with the DIRECT current adapter it didn't stop counting as it should have, it kept right on going - it seemed to be unplayable from that point.

 

I had this problem until I found this new adapter with ALTERNATING current and now all the games look and work as they should. I wish someone would have saved me the trouble I went through looking through flea markets and thrift stores for an original adapter which is about as unlikely to find as I can imagine.

[elliott]

You either had something wrong with your system or the DC adapter you used. A normally working system will handle anything AC or DC around 9 volts(I've personally used anything between 7 and 12 volts), I must have used 6 or 7 different adapters with mine, none had any negative effect on the system's function. It is about as picky about power as an NES is, I have used DC adapters with my NES consoles too, the original NES power supply is AC too, it is a great match for the original SVAII adapter if you are set on using AC.

Edited August 28, 2008 by elliott

[MMyers]

As I said, the system's running great now with this new AC one. Why would I need another adapter?

 

I still think you don't know what you're talking about so let's agree to disagree.

 

What I'm wondering is how RickHarrisMaine did - the guy who asked the question in the first place?

 

Did he find an adapter and how is his system working?

 

One thing I have to say, this is a videogame system version of the Energizer Bunny - it just keeps working.

To think I have had it for 20someodd years now and it still works great. How many of the new systems just out recently will we be able to say the same about in the years to come?

[elliott]

As I said, the system's running great now with this new AC one. Why would I need another adapter?

You don't, I'm just saying it isn't as picky as you say it is and if it doesn't work right on DC, you have other problems, either in the system or the adapter you used.

 

I still think you don't know what you're talking about so let's agree to disagree.

You still haven't said why it needs AC, I've said many times why it doesn't matter whether it gets AC or DC, the rectifier bridge, I apparently know what I'm talking about. If you still think I don't know what I'm talking about, I'll crack mine open again, show you the rectifier bridge and show that no matter what goes into it, AC or DC, that properly polarized DC comes out of it and goes into the 7805 voltage regulator and ~5 volts of pure DC comes out of the 7805 and goes to the important parts that make the system actually work. For the function of the system, the voltage coming out of that regulator is all that matters, the system never really sees that AC you're putting into it, it disappears after the first 4 diodes on the board after the power socket.

 

What I'm wondering is how RickHarrisMaine did - the guy who asked the question in the first place?

 

Did he find an adapter and how is his system working?

Considering it was months ago, and I suggested probably the most common and easy to find adapters months ago, he probably has one that works by now.

[MMyers]

Dude, chill, what are you so mad about? There is nothing wrong with my system or the adapters I used. I'm not cracking mine open or checking it out because it works great.

 

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Is it that important for you to be right? Who are you trying to prove this to? Me?

Who cares?

[Artlover]

I still think you don't know what you're talking about so let's agree to disagree.

I'm going to assume you have no experience with electricity or electronics, am I right?

 

As someone who has been playing with electronics, making circuit level repairs on my own equipment, make my own power supplies, make my own cartridges, make my own computer accessories and add-ons for the last 29 years and has/knows how to use multimeters, logic probes, oscilloscope, multisim, ect.. I can tell you he's right (on this kind of equipment anyways).

 

I've ran mine off DC, both xformers and batteries just fine, with no problems.

 

It's basic electronics 101.

 

While I don't doubt your personal experience, the problem is you fail to understand your experience is for other reasons then what you think they are. Faulty DC ataptor or faulty system. Just because it works with the so called propper AC adaptor doesn't mean the system doesn't have a fault in it's power circuit stage somewhere. Myself, I wouldn't even be using it if this was the case till I opened it and made some checks/repairs.

 

 

The only reason why I posted a reply was because I had the same problem as the person who posted this question, and I figured I could help.

While that is admirable, it does not help anyone to spread misinformation because of your lack of knowledge on the subject.

 

 

Dude, chill, what are you so mad about? There is nothing wrong with my system or the adapters I used. I'm not cracking mine open or checking it out because it works great.

 

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Is it that important for you to be right? Who are you trying to prove this to? Me?

Who cares?

It's not about being right, it's about trying to teach someone who doesn't actually understand what they are talking about. If you want to be ignorant on the subject, by all means, feel free. But have some decency. Keep it to yourself rather then try to spread it to others and quit knocking others who are trying to teach you something.

[elliott]

Dude, chill, what are you so mad about? There is nothing wrong with my system or the adapters I used. I'm not cracking mine open or checking it out because it works great.

 

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Is it that important for you to be right? Who are you trying to prove this to? Me?

Who cares?

I'm not mad, I just don't like misinformation being spread, when someone digs this thread up I want them to have the right information for what they are doing. I know you were only trying to help, but giving wrong information is not helpful. They won't hurt anything with your information, but I want them to know that a good DC adapter will work fine with no ill effects on a properly working system, DC adapters are more common, using an adapter from a system they already have is easier than hunting down another one.

 

I know what makes these systems tick, I know how to diagnose and repair them, I know why the SVAII/2800 can accept AC when every other 2600 uses DC and would fry with AC, I know why DC will work with it also, I know why tip polarity doesn't matter with DC on an SVAII/2800 but does on every 2600. I can also explain all of this, and have explained a good portion of it in this thread.

 

You haven't shown that you know anything outside of your personal experience with one system and 2 adapters, which doesn't mean much because the chances your system or adapter is flawed is pretty good because it doesn't behave as it should.

 

If I did happen to be wrong, I would gladly admit it, but you haven't shown me anything that would indicate that I was wrong outside of the personal experience mentioned earlier.

Edited August 30, 2008 by elliott

[littleman jack]

I've been using a Sega Genesis 1 power adapter on my Sears Video Arcade II for about a year now, and all seems well. When I bought my system used, it came with a Mattel power supply rated at 16V. It worked, but I was worried that I might be cooking my system, so I tried the Geneis power supply.

 

I wish the original power supplies were easy to come by, but they're not.

 

The Genesis 1 power supplies are somewhat easy to find, and they fit, and they're rated at 10V. The Genesis 2 power supplies might also work. They look similar.

 

I wouldn't rule out buying a generic Radio Shack 9 or 10 volt supply either, and then buying the proper tip to go on it. I've done that for an old tape recorder, and it worked just fine as well. With that, it's just a matter of matching the right size tip, or end, to fit your machine. You can bring in your Atari(Sears) and they'll let you try the various tips.

 

All this seems to confirm what has been stated earlier in this thread. The VAII seems to accept any power source rated around 9V that will fit into the machine. I can't comment on the colors because I am color blind But I'd try out a Genesis 1 power supply and see if that works for you.

 

Good luck.

Edited September 1, 2008 by littleman jack