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Couple Colecovision questions


Greg2600

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To recap my ongoing CV saga, I got one a few months back, but it did not work, only displayed a black screen. Today I got another one in an ebay lot. This one works, except that the video has a little red fuzziness, and a little jumpy, like the RF connection stinks. I then tried swapping the Power supplies on both CV's and to my surprise, the good PSU made the "broken" CV come on! The other PSU is definitely no good. However, the "broken" CV does have near perfect video, using the same RF cable. The bad news is that the controllers (I have tried many) do not seem to respond.

 

My questions:

1. Would only the controller function cease to function? Is that common?

2. Is there any reason or way of fixing the good CV's video? Again, it's just that the RF signal is not 100% clear.

3. When turning on the unit, if the screen says Turn off Game before inserting expansion pack, does that mean the cart needs to be cleaned?

4. One serial number starts with an A, the other a 5. What is the significance?

5. One power switch is very very hard to push, and one is very easy. Which is right one to have?

 

Thanks everybody.

Edited by Greg2600
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To recap my ongoing CV saga, I got one a few months back, but it did not work, only displayed a black screen. Today I got another one in an ebay lot. This one works, except that the video has a little red fuzziness, and a little jumpy, like the RF connection stinks. I then tried swapping the Power supplies on both CV's and to my surprise, the good PSU made the "broken" CV come on! The other PSU is definitely no good. However, the "broken" CV does have near perfect video, using the same RF cable. The bad news is that the controllers (I have tried many) do not seem to respond.

 

My questions:

1. Would only the controller function cease to function? Is that common?

2. Is there any reason or way of fixing the good CV's video? Again, it's just that the RF signal is not 100% clear.

3. When turning on the unit, if the screen says Turn off Game before inserting expansion pack, does that mean the cart needs to be cleaned?

4. One serial number starts with an A, the other a 5. What is the significance?

5. One power switch is very very hard to push, and one is very easy. Which is right one to have?

 

Thanks everybody.

 

 

1) I don't understand the question here. What do you mean, exactly?

 

2) Inside the CV is a small adjustment "hole" for the RF, possible two (I've seen both versions). Try adjusting the channel select (3 and 4) and/or the RF on your television, and see what happens, because the only way to adjust the CV's (which is in a small metal box under the metal casing inside) is to get to it with a tiny screwdriver. Be sure that you've tried everything else first, as getting to this is a serious hassle. The metal box has a sort of metal lid on it- it's clear enough to see- once this is off, look for a small round hole, inside of which you can see a slot for a tiny screwdriver. You turn it to adjust it. Be VERY CAREFUL, and DO NOT ever force it.

 

3) Possibly the CV, too. Try cleaning both. Do NOT do this unless you unplug the thing first!

 

4) Don't know.

 

5) It should not be very hard. Under the CV are screws holding the black plastic casing together. On the side with the switch, try loosening them a bit.

Edited by CV Gus
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I tried adjusting that screw for the RF, but it didn't help. The background, rather than black, has some faint red lines in it, and the picture is a tad jumpy. I found that this CV must be one of the early ones, because the board is revision A. It has only one small hole with a screw. The other CV has a board with revision H2, and does not have the large metal casing on top of it. The A revision does. The H2 controller port 2 is fine, the problem is port 1. It responds to the keypad and the fire buttons. However, the directional stick control seems to be stuck to the left. Any ideas? I would rather get the H2 working, because the video is perfect.

 

Thanks.

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I tried adjusting that screw for the RF, but it didn't help. The background, rather than black, has some faint red lines in it, and the picture is a tad jumpy. I found that this CV must be one of the early ones, because the board is revision A. It has only one small hole with a screw. The other CV has a board with revision H2, and does not have the large metal casing on top of it. The A revision does. The H2 controller port 2 is fine, the problem is port 1. It responds to the keypad and the fire buttons. However, the directional stick control seems to be stuck to the left. Any ideas? I would rather get the H2 working, because the video is perfect.

 

Thanks.

 

Swap the controllers between ports. If the problem stays with the ports there's a 74LS541 IC you'll need to replace. There are two of them, each one is right next to the jack for each player. Replace the one on port 1.

 

If it stays with the controller then repair/replace the controller.

 

RJ

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It's definitely the port itself, I did try the same controller on both, and #2 still works. Might not be worth it for me to replace the IC. I am appallingly bad at such things. Might just stick with the fully working one that has worse video. Oddly, the newer revision has that second screw on the RF board, which does adjust it well, but the older does not have that second one.

Edited by Greg2600
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It's definitely the port itself, I did try the same controller on both, and #2 still works. Might not be worth it for me to replace the IC. I am appallingly bad at such things. Might just stick with the fully working one that has worse video. Oddly, the newer revision has that second screw on the RF board, which does adjust it well, but the older does not have that second one.

 

If you need, I can swap that chip out for you.

 

RJ

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LOL, I'm also having problems with a Colecovision Driving Controller. Wheel doesn't respond. Four new C batteries. The pedal works. Does anyone know if the IR device is supposed to give off a red light at all?

 

Maybe. If so, I think Radio Shack sells these little IR detection cards that may help.

 

http://whackywhizzers.blogspot.com/2007/09/ir-sensors.html

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