Starcon and overlays

[RangerG]

Dear Starcon owners,

 

I love using my Starcon stick and I like to use the 5200 overlays (if the game uses them). The Starcon pad doesn't hold an overlay, but I found that if I use heavy duty photo corners that they hold the overlays well. Just a hint for anyone interested.

 

Take care,

RG

[bohoki]

Dear Starcon owners,

 

I love using my Starcon stick and I like to use the 5200 overlays (if the game uses them). The Starcon pad doesn't hold an overlay, but I found that if I use heavy duty photo corners that they hold the overlays well. Just a hint for anyone interested.

 

Take care,

RG

 

 

neat tip

 

i pretty much use the overlays as a quick reference guide maybe a bit of doublestick scotch tape on the back of each

[RangerG]

They are more reference, but if you are going to play on real equipment (vs. emulator) then I like to use the actual cart, overlay, and period controllers. Sticky-tack also works (but it is ugly).

Edited December 22, 2008 by RangerG

[bohoki]

They are more reference, but if you are going to play on real equipment (vs. emulator) then I like to use the actual cart, overlay, and period controllers. Sticky-tack also works (but it is ugly).

 

i use it on real equipment

 

 

i blow them up to work on my 2600 keypad i modded to work with my controller

[RangerG]

I like it - that looks good. Do you print them out to plastic transparency sheets?

[RangerG]

Bohoki,

 

In one of your old posts (called my new homemade controller), you have a Starcon keypad on your homemade joystick. Is is a vintage part or do they still make those keypads?

[bohoki]

Bohoki,

 

In one of your old posts (called my new homemade controller), you have a Starcon keypad on your homemade joystick. Is is a vintage part or do they still make those keypads?

 

this is really weird i got it from i believe the guy who made the starcons "wife" she was selling off some wico sticks and she threw one in for free

this was well before i dug out my 5200 and i had no idea there was a starcon controller so it was just sitting around in my desk for like 5 years then i wanted to do some 5200-ing and used it in my first attempt at a home made controller then i found out it was from a starcon

 

 

 

 

 

and i was like oh crap i should have bought more cause it is very usefull

 

its kind of like i cycle through my hobbies

 

commodore64, rc10 cars,nes,genesis,mame

 

i'm basically in a 5200 / lego mode right now

 

 

 

wow they still do make them

 

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch...;name=GH5014-ND

Edited December 23, 2008 by bohoki

[bohoki]

ps if you dont mind getting one that is not the exact i se someone has a greyhill keypad on ebay

[cyberfluxor]

ps if you dont mind getting one that is not the exact i se someone has a greyhill keypad on ebay

So you're saying one of these pads will work well with the 5200? Just currious because it's classified under fire protection and am not familiar with the ratings needed for adapting to a home made controllers.

 

Stats:

Height: 3.000 ± 0.015 in.

Material: ABS polycarbonate

Mounting Type: Flange Mount

Output Type: Matrix

Resistance, Contact: 10 Ohms (Max.)

Size: 3 x 4 in.

Temperature, Operating: -30 to +80 °C

Voltage, Rating: 24 VDC

[bohoki]

ps if you dont mind getting one that is not the exact i se someone has a greyhill keypad on ebay

So you're saying one of these pads will work well with the 5200? Just currious because it's classified under fire protection and am not familiar with the ratings needed for adapting to a home made controllers.

 

Stats:

Height: 3.000 ± 0.015 in.

Material: ABS polycarbonate

Mounting Type: Flange Mount

Output Type: Matrix

Resistance, Contact: 10 Ohms (Max.)

Size: 3 x 4 in.

Temperature, Operating: -30 to +80 °C

Voltage, Rating: 24 VDC

 

 

it is functionally identical to the one that comes with the star con controller (i actually like this font better)

i used to post ebay links but they always get deleted so i have to hint at them

 

it uses a matrix to encode button presses you know rows and columns that are shorted when a button is pressed

 

its sure cheaper than buying one for $30 plus shipping

 

under the number vinyl is a bunch of little metal disks switches like on the atari 2600 origional controller so it is way better than carbon contacts

[cyberfluxor]

Well, I got the keypad in today, tested each button and works like a charm. Thanks for the heads up as now I need to begin designing the arcade panel I'm going to build and ensure there is enough space. How about something like this or even this for a start button? Ya, I need to find some cool buttons for this project.

Edited January 6, 2009 by cyberfluxor

[bohoki]

Well, I got the keypad in today, tested each button and works like a charm. Thanks for the heads up as now I need to begin designing the arcade panel I'm going to build and ensure there is enough space. How about something like this or even this for a start button? Ya, I need to find some cool buttons for this project.

 

 

i would go for these if you are in for a penny go in for a pound

there are these arcade machines that are like slot machines they are called cherry machines and the parts are fairly cheap and robust

just dont use the 5 v from the system to power their lamps

 

also ones with words if you are careful you can take them apart and put in your own just print it out and cut it to the same size

for start pause reset but make sure they come with the nut to hold them on to the panel

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/SET-OF-12-ROUND-PUSH-B...p3286.m20.l1116

 

 

this guy seems ok

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ARCADE-PUSH-BUTTONS-BU...%3A1|240%3A1318

 

just order green yellow red and 2 orange ones for the fire buttons

 

if you are doing the microswitch joystick i will redraw the schematic to my new improved popeye friendly version

 

keep it simple also post pics i love seeing otherpeoples stufs

Edited January 6, 2009 by bohoki

[cyberfluxor]

I uploaded a rough design of what I'm planning on doing. This is really beginning to go off-topic and should start a new thread or if someone can move the corresponding replies into a new one. I'm more interested in the low-profile buttons and still need to determine a stick. I just want up, down, left, and right in each direction without a POT.

 

Oh yes, I just found these little guys.

Edited January 6, 2009 by cyberfluxor

[bohoki]

I uploaded a rough design of what I'm planning on doing. This is really beginning to go off-topic and should start a new thread or if someone can move the corresponding replies into a new one. I'm more interested in the low-profile buttons and still need to determine a stick. I just want up, down, left, and right in each direction without a POT.

 

Oh yes, I just found these little guys.

 

really keen i'm glad you are going with the wood look paint is not vary durable and the contact paper is horrendous too many people just throw on the black marble stuff and it always looks like crap or they make it too noisy with all kinds of mini arcade marquees or other video game graphics

 

here is a pannel i was going to use but i blew it with the black marble(it was from a pengo arcade machine that was butchered for a conversion them damn dirty careylike arcade operators)

 

here is the control on my desk made from a keyboard tray sliders and some finished plank i cover the innards under with a small plastic bin

 

 

here is the pannel i put on my mame arcade unit the tracball was tricky as it was a cheapo i took out of the shell(i was pretty clever cazuse i used 2 hole saws one slightly less diameter than the ball the other a little over the diameter i drilled from the top with teh too narrow one about 1/4 inch then from the back with the larger diameter and when it met the piece just came free and the ball is now captive i really shoudl glue in a little felt o ring to keep the ball from jumping a little

 

i see you want to miter the corners good luck with that as to corner reenforcement jsut use a square piece of wood to screw in from both sides or use some really good glue

 

i would not get the buttons you just showed the link too

 

make sure you get nice deep buttons so they will sit well in your plank

Edited January 6, 2009 by bohoki