Help me diagnose my 5200 problem, thanks

[RangerG]

I thought my controllers were going bad, but when they all seemed to have problems then I guessed the machine. If a fire button gets flaky or going down doesn't work, then I can wiggle where the control goes into the machine and this usually fixes it for awhile. I took the 5200 apart to look for a place to better solder the control port or to look for anything loose, but I didn't see anything (and I really don't know what I'm looking for). Any help appreciated - thanks!

[+DamonicFury]

I thought my controllers were going bad, but when they all seemed to have problems then I guessed the machine. If a fire button gets flaky or going down doesn't work, then I can wiggle where the control goes into the machine and this usually fixes it for awhile. I took the 5200 apart to look for a place to better solder the control port or to look for anything loose, but I didn't see anything (and I really don't know what I'm looking for). Any help appreciated - thanks!

 

The 5200 itself is fine. The controller buttons are just notoriously flaky. You need to take apart the controller (carefully.) Once done, you should use an eraser on the flexible circuit board where the problematic buttons touch it. This may do the trick, but if not, try gluing bits of foll to the carbon dots on the buttons.

 

Doing this should get you up and running for a while. A more permanent solution is to get new replacements flexible circuits and buttons from Best Electronics. Best website That link also gives some good tips on how to open up the controller without damaging anything.

[classics]

Try re-soldering the connections on the controller connector where they meet the main pcb.

 

Steve

[RangerG]

I think Classics has the right idea. I keep my controllers in good working condition and it is flaky with all of them. I'm going to pm Classics for more specifics.

Thanks.

[RangerG]

Classics,

 

Thanks for the advice on the flaky controller port. I am not knowledgeable with electronics, but I can solder. Would I pop off the black controller port? Where are the connections? I know it has plastic connectors to keep it on the machine.

 

Another repair question - what do you do when the screws in the machine no longer screw in (I assume the plastic in the machine is stripped?). Two of them just sit there and turn, but they don't screw in anymore. Don't worry about them? Any fixes?

 

Thank you for the help.

 

-Randy G

[CV Gus]

Thanks for the advice on the flaky controller port. I am not knowledgeable with electronics, but I can solder. Would I pop off the black controller port? Where are the connections? I know it has plastic connectors to keep it on the machine.

 

Another repair question - what do you do when the screws in the machine no longer screw in (I assume the plastic in the machine is stripped?). Two of them just sit there and turn, but they don't screw in anymore. Don't worry about them? Any fixes?

 

 

There is one thing you can do, awkward as it is, to see if it's the controller or the control port on the 5200:

 

Plug in two controllers.

 

Choose a cartridge which uses the fire button, like Berzerk.

 

Choose a two-player game.

 

Play both briefly.

 

See what happens. If player one cannot shoot, but player two can, switch controllers. If now player one can shoot but not player two, then it's the controller.

If it's the same as before, it's the 5200.

 

(If neither can shoot ever, then maybe you have two bad controllers. Try another.)

 

 

If you think it's the 5200 at the port, then first check to see if all 15 pins are there. If they are, then it's likely a bad solder somewhere. If that's the case, then it could be easy: Just touch each of the 15 pins where they connect to the circuit board with a hot soldering iron (you said you can do basic soldering). Add a bit of solder if you think it needs it.

 

You do not have to remove that part at all if this is all that is the matter.

 

 

HELPFUL HINT:

 

UPPER FIRE BUTTON= GREEN/WHITE and ORANGE.

LOWER FIRE BUTTON= YELLOW and ORANGE

 

The 5200 controller plug has 15 holes: there are 2 rows; 8 in the top row, and 7 in the bottom row.

 

OOOOOOOO

OOOOOOO

 

I will number them. This assumes you are looking at the holes in the plug, with the 8-hole row on top:

 

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08

09 10 11 12 13 14 15

 

01= GREEN

02= RED/WHITE

03= PURPLE

04= BLUE

05= ORANGE/WHITE

06= NOTHING

07= WHITE

08= GREY

09= ORANGE

10= GREEN/WHITE

11= YELLOW

12= NOTHING

13= RED

14= BROWN

15= BLACK

 

 

When looking at the shiny pins on the 5200, it is a mirror image of the above.

 

If you have a thin piece of wire and a delicate enough touch, you can directly test the 5200 port. Using a stripped garbage tie would do nicely for a wire. A multi-tester is better, use the setting for detect current (DC low).

 

To test the upper fire button, touch these two pins: Rightmost one on the bottom row, and the one right next to it (to the left of it).

 

00000000

00000XX

 

 

To test the lower fire button, touch these two pins: Rightmost one on the bottom row, and the one two over from it (to the left).

00000000

0000X0X

 

If this does nothing, then it is certainly something with the 5200.

 

 

As for the screws: you could try a slightly wider one.

Good luck.

Edited July 8, 2009 by CV Gus