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anybody interested in pc joysticks adapted to 5200


bohoki

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ive got i think a slightly excessive amount of pc joysticks

 

would anybody like one i am thinking about $30 each insured delivered within usa

 

i have several types

 

all will come with a convertor

 

 

DCP_8195.jpg

 

just gauging interest

Edited by bohoki
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ive got i think a slightly excessive amount of pc joysticks

 

would anybody like one i am thinking about $30 each insured delivered within usa

 

i have several types

 

all will come with a convertor

 

 

DCP_8195.jpg

 

just gauging interest

 

I'm guessing these are PC gameport-based joysticks as I don't see the connectors. They aren't worth much but with a converter for A5200 maybe-- how do you start the game or change the gender (as gameport uses female connector whereas A5200 uses male connector)? Perhaps, it needs a Y-cable.

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ive got i think a slightly excessive amount of pc joysticks

 

would anybody like one i am thinking about $30 each insured delivered within usa

 

i have several types

 

all will come with a convertor

 

 

DCP_8195.jpg

 

just gauging interest

 

I'm guessing these are PC gameport-based joysticks as I don't see the connectors. They aren't worth much but with a converter for A5200 maybe-- how do you start the game or change the gender (as gameport uses female connector whereas A5200 uses male connector)? Perhaps, it needs a Y-cable.

 

 

the converter has a start button and a male 15 pin to plug in a 5200 controller for the keypad and top row

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the adapter costs me $5 in components and it will cost $10 to ship anywhere in america i was hoping to get $10 for each joy

 

so i guess i could go $25 unless someone knows a cheaper shipping option

 

Okay, I'll take one. With start button on the converter, I gather I would be able to play some games without requiring the keypad. Pmail me your paypal address to send payment to. I am in America so I guess standard rates apply.

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What does the converter look like? Could you shoot a pic of those?

 

Thanks.

 

DCP_8205.jpg

the converters are specially modified to fit decent into the jack by removing the metal jacket and sealing the end

all connections are gooped over with hot glue (plug colors may vary)

 

now there are 2 different designs i made a special one for the 3 axis joys the switch changes over the z axis to become a y axis which allows me to play river raid at a certain velocity so i can dial it in and i will only go that speed it was an experiment and is fairly useless for any other game

 

 

 

brady_bunch.jpg

i shall give the joysticks code names

 

marsha is a large stick the springs are a little loose has good range of movement very comfortable for long term play if you have a large hand suckers on bottom slider adjusters convientiently located

 

carol is a kraft button on top of stick fairly loose feel button on base may be more familiar with old stick users

centering sliders have good range of adjustment

 

greg is an old time gravis he has switches on the side to make any of the 3 buttons any of the 2 buttons it

it will come decently centered but centering adjustments are done with a small screwdriver good stick for a small hand

 

jan is a kraft thunderstick it is a 3 axis the triangle thing on the side is the throttle it slides foward and backward the centering adjusters are convieniently located but are loose and easily bumped the buttons are kind of stiff and the trigger button is kind of narrow and may fatigue your finger this is a good stick for a small hand

 

alice is i think the oldest a suncom analog plus it has a trigger button in front a thumb button on top it had autofire but it doesnt work any more the stick is fairly stiff being centered via a rubber disk vs springs the slider adjusters have it centered now but are kind of to one side of the range, the stick also works on apple unsure of which apple wire has a curly section like a phone cord not much range nice for pac man though

 

peter is autofire the stick has good range of movement centering ajusters on the bottom along with suckers has working autofire via switches on the front to make the button do the pulse fire for each button

 

cindy is a heavy beast the wingman stick it feels like it has a 1/4 steel base ,also has the z axis wheel on the left centering wheels on top and right great range of movement a great stick for missile command trigger button and top thumb button

 

mike is a simple stick no autofire no frills just suckers and ajusters on the bottom (wont get in the way)thumb and finger trigger buttons

smooth movement

 

bobby another 3 axis oddly shaped stick kind of like a double bend has autofire switch near top thumb button activate it and both buttons pulsefire when depressed grey slider adjusters for centering the left wheel rotates for the z axis not really useful except for like i said adjust your speed on river raid set it and forget it probably my favorite of the lot

 

 

if i were to rate them like i were picking teams

it would probably go like

 

bobby

peter

greg

mike

cindy

marsha

carol

alice

jan

 

 

but wait there's more

 

for the first lucky customer that wants it i will include

 

DCP_8206.jpg

 

a digital pad* for only $8 more you just plug it into the joystick adapter and it is has definate up down left right and selectable autofire switches

 

great for most games you need quick response

 

*not for use with superbreakout,kaboom,starwars,gorf,missilecommand)

Edited by bohoki
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What does the converter look like? Could you shoot a pic of those?

 

Thanks.

 

DCP_8205.jpg

the converters are specially modified to fit decent into the jack by removing the metal jacket and sealing the end

all connections are gooped over with hot glue (plug colors may vary)

 

now there are 2 different designs i made a special one for the 3 axis joys the switch changes over the z axis to become a y axis which allows me to play river raid at a certain velocity so i can dial it in and i will only go that speed it was an experiment and is fairly useless for any other game

 

 

 

brady_bunch.jpg

i shall give the joysticks code names

 

marsha is a large stick the springs are a little loose has good range of movement very comfortable for long term play if you have a large hand suckers on bottom slider adjusters convientiently located

 

carol is a kraft button on top of stick fairly loose feel button on base may be more familiar with old stick users

centering sliders have good range of adjustment

 

greg is an old time gravis he has switches on the side to make any of the 3 buttons any of the 2 buttons it

it will come decently centered but centering adjustments are done with a small screwdriver good stick for a small hand

 

jan is a kraft thunderstick it is a 3 axis the triangle thing on the side is the throttle it slides foward and backward the centering adjusters are convieniently located but are loose and easily bumped the buttons are kind of stiff and the trigger button is kind of narrow and may fatigue your finger this is a good stick for a small hand

 

alice is i think the oldest a suncom analog plus it has a trigger button in front a thumb button on top it had autofire but it doesnt work any more the stick is fairly stiff being centered via a rubber disk vs springs the slider adjusters have it centered now but are kind of to one side of the range, the stick also works on apple unsure of which apple wire has a curly section like a phone cord not much range nice for pac man though

 

peter is autofire the stick has good range of movement centering ajusters on the bottom along with suckers has working autofire via switches on the front to make the button do the pulse fire for each button

 

cindy is a heavy beast the wingman stick it feels like it has a 1/4 steel base ,also has the z axis wheel on the left centering wheels on top and right great range of movement a great stick for missile command trigger button and top thumb button

 

mike is a simple stick no autofire no frills just suckers and ajusters on the bottom (wont get in the way)thumb and finger trigger buttons

smooth movement

 

bobby another 3 axis oddly shaped stick kind of like a double bend has autofire switch near top thumb button activate it and both buttons pulsefire when depressed grey slider adjusters for centering the left wheel rotates for the z axis not really useful except for like i said adjust your speed on river raid set it and forget it probably my favorite of the lot

 

 

if i were to rate them like i were picking teams

it would probably go like

 

bobby

peter

greg

mike

cindy

marsha

carol

alice

jan

 

 

but wait there's more

 

for the first lucky customer that wants it i will include

 

DCP_8206.jpg

 

a digital pad* for only $8 more you just plug it into the joystick adapter and it is has definate up down left right and selectable autofire switches

 

great for most games you need quick response

 

*not for use with superbreakout,kaboom,starwars,gorf,missilecommand)

 

I'll take the "Greg" one-- the one with the buttons at the base. I also don't like easily being able to decenter them with sliders. I need it to work for Ms. Pac-man/Miner 2049er/Qix so I guess it's already centered for those. Is the digital pad been modified or standard gameport stick since I may already have one of those?

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the adapter will work with gamepads that act like a standard pc gameport joystick

 

You have picture of two adapters-- is that the start button on the one on the right?

 

Perhaps, it needs to be taped up so nobody has to see the insides.

 

 

the one on the right has a switch that turns the z into the y they both have a little push button on the plug

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the adapter will work with gamepads that act like a standard pc gameport joystick

 

You have picture of two adapters-- is that the start button on the one on the right?

 

Perhaps, it needs to be taped up so nobody has to see the insides.

 

 

the one on the right has a switch that turns the z into the y they both have a little push button on the plug

 

Okay, payment sent.

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You know, that is a spectacular idea, removing the metal shield from the plug.

 

So spectacular, in fact, that I just did it with my Genesis-to-7800 adapters that I made. :D

 

 

i got it down to a science i clip one of the sides with a cable cutter cablecut.jpg

 

and pry it apart

 

then seal the 2 pieces with a soldering iron just 4 hits with the side across the top and bottom seam holds it good

 

with the male end i use needle nose pliers to give the shield the shape of the locking lugs

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You know, that is a spectacular idea, removing the metal shield from the plug.

 

So spectacular, in fact, that I just did it with my Genesis-to-7800 adapters that I made. :D

 

 

i got it down to a science i clip one of the sides with a cable cutter cablecut.jpg

 

and pry it apart

 

then seal the 2 pieces with a soldering iron just 4 hits with the side across the top and bottom seam holds it good

 

with the male end i use needle nose pliers to give the shield the shape of the locking lugs

 

I just drilled out the rivets on mine. I glued the halves together with brush-on Color-Change Instant Krazy Glue.

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So to verify, you are selling the convertors alone as well? For how much?

 

Also, they're meant to replace the joystick port, is that correct?

 

I'm just having trouble visualizing what goes where. Maybe someone can throw together a quick sketch in MSpaint or something.

 

This sounds like a very reasonable way to avoid dealing with 5200 issues.

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So to verify, you are selling the convertors alone as well? For how much?

 

Also, they're meant to replace the joystick port, is that correct?

 

I'm just having trouble visualizing what goes where. Maybe someone can throw together a quick sketch in MSpaint or something.

 

This sounds like a very reasonable way to avoid dealing with 5200 issues.

 

 

its not rocket science you plug the sucker in "port one", slam in your game, press power, press the start button on the adapter and play generally it works just fine if you bump the calibration dials recenter using missile command or star wars

 

i have noticed certain games act weird but seem to auto calibrate after playing one game a couple i experienced is with vanguard the ship will just keep going up but after a few deaths and moving the joystick in a circle it then just works right

 

ms pacman seems to want to move left but seems to act normally after running the joystick in a couple circles

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i guess i could sell an adapter but i would like to know the stick that will be used with it to verify it will be compatable

 

i guess i could sell one for $10 delivered anywhere in the usa

 

DCP_8223.jpg

 

I guess I would be interested in one more that has some sort of hook so I can pull out the connector once its within the socket. Pulling on that wire may disconnect stuff. Your secondary connector works also with my digital joystick adapter using a touchpad:

 

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 3205388252991?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=320538825299&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

Now, if you pass through all 15 signals to the secondary connector, that would allow me to have everything connected (PC, Atari 2600 keypad, and Gravis PC joystick) all the time and I wouldn't have to swap things.

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eBay Auction -- Item Number: 3205388252991?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=320538825299&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

Now, if you pass through all 15 signals to the secondary connector, that would allow me to have everything connected (PC, Atari 2600 keypad, and Gravis PC joystick) all the time and I wouldn't have to swap things.

 

 

i am curious about this item

 

i have some questions

 

Here's a special adapter that let's you use an Atari paddle, touchpad or keyboard controller, or PC with your Atari 5200. It's a cable that connects to the joystick port on your Atari 5200 and has two DB9 (9-pin) connectors-- one connects to the Atari touchpad/keyboard controller and the other connects to MPDOS compatible cable's DB9 connector to simulate the X/Y motion and top/bottom buttons. If you don't use with MPDOS, you can use an Atari 2600/Atari 800 paddle controller. More details are available at: http://www.krishnasoft.com/sps.htm. It works best when used in conjunction with the MPDOS Standard software also available from our website and available in one of my other Ebay auctions for a few days.

 

what is mpdos software , how do you use a pc with the 5200? what is this mpdos cable

are you requiring having a dedicated computer hooked up just to play a game?

 

 

how does the touchpad's internal resitor not interfere with your units button columns ?

 

how does it reverse the direction of the paddles ?

 

what is the deal with the dangly wire coming out of the back of both plugs?

 

ive tried plugging in metal shielded plugs and they always fall out cause they dont go in deep enough how come it works for you?

Edited by bohoki
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eBay Auction -- Item Number: 3205388252991?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=320538825299&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

Now, if you pass through all 15 signals to the secondary connector, that would allow me to have everything connected (PC, Atari 2600 keypad, and Gravis PC joystick) all the time and I wouldn't have to swap things.

 

 

i am curious about this item

 

i have some questions

 

Here's a special adapter that let's you use an Atari paddle, touchpad or keyboard controller, or PC with your Atari 5200. It's a cable that connects to the joystick port on your Atari 5200 and has two DB9 (9-pin) connectors-- one connects to the Atari touchpad/keyboard controller and the other connects to MPDOS compatible cable's DB9 connector to simulate the X/Y motion and top/bottom buttons. If you don't use with MPDOS, you can use an Atari 2600/Atari 800 paddle controller. More details are available at: http://www.krishnasoft.com/sps.htm. It works best when used in conjunction with the MPDOS Standard software also available from our website and available in one of my other Ebay auctions for a few days.

 

what is mpdos software , how do you use a pc with the 5200? what is this mpdos cable

are you requiring having a dedicated computer hooked up just to play a game?

...

MPDOS is a Multi-Platform Distributive OS; it allows controlling joystick/mouse/paddle ports, SIO port, floppy port (on Amiga), keyboard ports (on various machines), etc. You can write a program on PC in BASIC or ASM and upload it to various machines or boot the machine with that program. I haven't written the Atari 5200 end to allow uploading software to it, but it does control the joystick ports (only discrete/digital 8-directions and center). So you can tell it to map the PC joystick to Atari 5200 for example. Or you can tell it to map the PC keyboards arrow keys/ctrl/shift to Atari 7800 joystick. Yeah, you do need a laptop or desktop with a parallel port since the MPDOS cable is a parallel port-based. The other end can be an Atari 800, Atari 7800, Atari 5200, C64, Vic-20, Amiga, Atari ST, etc.

 

how does the touchpad's internal resitor not interfere with your units button columns ?

They do interfere with the start/pause/reset column unless you remove the internal resistors. But that's just a couple of minutes of removing the screws and pulling out one leg of the resistors.

 

how does it reverse the direction of the paddles ?

It just explains how to remove one wire from one of the three terminals of the Paddles and put it on another terminal. The Paddles are analog controllers so they are plugged in directly into the digital joystick adapter instead of the MPDOS cable. So MPDOS is not required (i.e. PC is not required) to use paddles with that adapter. It was just designed so that either you can plug the paddles in or use a PC (one or the other).

 

what is the deal with the dangly wire coming out of the back of both plugs?

I was going to add a switch to the keypad so you can toggle in/out the middle column with either start/pause/reset or 2,5,8,0 keys but it added too much expense to the production so that jumper never got implemented. The other jumper (the blue one) was supposed to allow me to set mode for joystick or trackball mode (using POT GND or +5V) but again for same reason it's just left unimplemented. So currently, it just assumes user will user it appropriately.

 

ive tried plugging in metal shielded plugs and they always fall out cause they dont go in deep enough how come it works for you?

 

I have three options. Currently, I am using a 15pin joystick extension cable and it fits pretty good; it's been plugged in for almost a year. On another machine, I put two holes on the left/right side of the joystick port #1 and I actually use the screws. Third option is to plug it in so there's no pull on the cable.

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