Expect (rebuilt) controller lifespan?

[DocEss]

I've recently gotten a handful of rebuilt controllers. (BEST, gold contacts, etc.) If I casually play the machine (likely less than my 2600 or 7800, presume maybe 10 hours/month or less) what kind of lifespan can I expect before replacing the controllers (again)?

[atariksi]

I've recently gotten a handful of rebuilt controllers. (BEST, gold contacts, etc.) If I casually play the machine (likely less than my 2600 or 7800, presume maybe 10 hours/month or less) what kind of lifespan can I expect before replacing the controllers (again)?

 

Depends on which games you play and how passionate you are about the game.

 

It's like estimating how many atoms burn up on a tire when you press the brakes-- should last long if they are gold and don't oxidize easily.

[DocEss]

I've recently gotten a handful of rebuilt controllers. (BEST, gold contacts, etc.) If I casually play the machine (likely less than my 2600 or 7800, presume maybe 10 hours/month or less) what kind of lifespan can I expect before replacing the controllers (again)?

 

Depends on which games you play and how passionate you are about the game.

 

It's like estimating how many atoms burn up on a tire when you press the brakes-- should last long if they are gold and don't oxidize easily.

 

Primarily your standard arcade ports. (Ms) Pac-man, Gyruss, Galaxian, Berzerk (hell of a lot of Berzerk), Vanguard, stuff like that. Maybe even some Kangaroo. Some Zaxxon if I can track down a copy.

 

I try not to get to vigorous with the controllers, however, because I'm fully aware of their fragility. Was just shooting for sort of an average. Like 2-3 years, 12-18 months, stuff like that.

Edited July 16, 2010 by DocEss

[jetset]

The only part of the controller that ever breaks (wears down) are the fire buttons, and possibly on uber rare occasions the start, pause and reset buttons. I don't have the Best gold rebuilds, I just opened mine up, cleaned the contacts, and glued tin foil to the inside of the fire button so the carbon dots won't wear down the circuit. I did that well over two years ago and play fairly regularly and have not had a problem since. I should think that the gold contacts are of a better nature and should last way longer than simple tin foil.

Of the games you mentioned, only Gyruss and Vanguard will you be going nuts firing constantly, so unless you mash the hell out of them the should lasy a REALLY long time.

[DocEss]

The only part of the controller that ever breaks (wears down) are the fire buttons, and possibly on uber rare occasions the start, pause and reset buttons. I don't have the Best gold rebuilds, I just opened mine up, cleaned the contacts, and glued tin foil to the inside of the fire button so the carbon dots won't wear down the circuit. I did that well over two years ago and play fairly regularly and have not had a problem since. I should think that the gold contacts are of a better nature and should last way longer than simple tin foil.

Of the games you mentioned, only Gyruss and Vanguard will you be going nuts firing constantly, so unless you mash the hell out of them the should lasy a REALLY long time.

 

Fantastic, good to know. I know that poor giant box gets a lot of hate, but it has some of the best translations of my favorites (such as Berzerk and Vanguard), so I can't help but love it.

 

Is that glue tin foil procedure fairly simple? I've got a non-functional stick sitting around, and wouldn't be opposed to resurrecting it as a backup.

[BydoEmpire]

I don't play my 5200 nearly as much as I used to (well, until Sinistar came out), but I've had a Best Electronics rebuilt controller for about 3 years now and never have an issue. I go pretty easy on it, though.

[atariksi]

I've recently gotten a handful of rebuilt controllers. (BEST, gold contacts, etc.) If I casually play the machine (likely less than my 2600 or 7800, presume maybe 10 hours/month or less) what kind of lifespan can I expect before replacing the controllers (again)?

 

Depends on which games you play and how passionate you are about the game.

 

It's like estimating how many atoms burn up on a tire when you press the brakes-- should last long if they are gold and don't oxidize easily.

 

Primarily your standard arcade ports. (Ms) Pac-man, Gyruss, Galaxian, Berzerk (hell of a lot of Berzerk), Vanguard, stuff like that. Maybe even some Kangaroo. Some Zaxxon if I can track down a copy.

 

I try not to get to vigorous with the controllers, however, because I'm fully aware of their fragility. Was just shooting for sort of an average. Like 2-3 years, 12-18 months, stuff like that.

 

The A5200 joystick POTs seem to keep going and going unless you really jerk them hard whereas the buttons especially the fire buttons seem to go bad over time. On Wico joystick, it's the reverse, the POTs seem to go bad over time (range seems to narrow or just jumps/jitters too much) but the buttons work solid. So if you're desperately trying to kill that pteradactyl in Joust, joystick may last 12-18 hours.

[jetset]

The only part of the controller that ever breaks (wears down) are the fire buttons, and possibly on uber rare occasions the start, pause and reset buttons. I don't have the Best gold rebuilds, I just opened mine up, cleaned the contacts, and glued tin foil to the inside of the fire button so the carbon dots won't wear down the circuit. I did that well over two years ago and play fairly regularly and have not had a problem since. I should think that the gold contacts are of a better nature and should last way longer than simple tin foil.

Of the games you mentioned, only Gyruss and Vanguard will you be going nuts firing constantly, so unless you mash the hell out of them the should lasy a REALLY long time.

 

Fantastic, good to know. I know that poor giant box gets a lot of hate, but it has some of the best translations of my favorites (such as Berzerk and Vanguard), so I can't help but love it.

 

Is that glue tin foil procedure fairly simple? I've got a non-functional stick sitting around, and wouldn't be opposed to resurrecting it as a backup.

 

Um...it's quite easy if; you're REALLYREALLYREALLY good with gadgets, OR you've practiced a lot. I can tell you, I'm all thumbs with fixing stuff, and most times when I take something apart I screw it up worse. The 5200 stick is one of, if not THE most difficult controllers to take apart and successfully put back together. The first few times I did it I was ready to throw my whole collection on the outdoor grill and light the bitch up.

Now, that said, I've practiced enough that I can pretty much do it lickety split, and I wonder how I even ever had trouble doing it. There's likely somewhere online, or even here that maps out exactly how to do it. Definitely worthwhile learning. I'm sure the Best replacement is da bomb, but next time save the $$ and do it yourself.

[tz101]

Is that glue tin foil procedure fairly simple? I've got a non-functional stick sitting around, and wouldn't be opposed to resurrecting it as a backup.

 

So simple a caveman can do it.

 

All you do is take the rubberized buttons out of the case (after you take the case apart, of course), then use a handheld paper punch to punch some dots out of good quality aluminum foil. Clean the carbon dots with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs. Then apply a small dot of super glue to each carbon contact (too much super glue takes a lot longer to dry so be careful). Use tweezers to place each aluminum dot (shiny side up) onto each glued carbon contact pad. Press down to smash the glue underneath. Allow about ten minutes to fully dry, and then put it all back together. Presto, the controller buttons will fire like they were new.

 

This works for the fire buttons, along with start, pause, reset, and all the number pad buttons as well.

 

One more thing: While the controller is apart, go ahead and clean all the contact areas of the flex circuit with isopropyl alcohol. This will make for nice electrical contact with the foil dots after reassembly of the controller.

[Jess Ragan]

My solution (as always) is this:

 

1) Throw away icky, bad controller

2) Buy spiffy new controller

 

It hasn't failed me yet!

[DocEss]

Well, I'm highly experienced in disassembly and fine repair of the internal components of laptops, so I figure a controller can't be so bad.

[zylon]

I used dots of foil-tape made with a hole punch on mine.

[tz101]

1) Throw away icky, bad controller

 

No. Send them to me and I will make them like new.

[DocEss]

Well, the foil idea worked wonderfully on one of my broken controllers!

 

However, the pots are still completely shot. Is that something I need to order specific, or can one Radio Shack such a doodad?

[atariksi]

Well, the foil idea worked wonderfully on one of my broken controllers!

 

However, the pots are still completely shot. Is that something I need to order specific, or can one Radio Shack such a doodad?

 

You sure it's the pots and not the way the controller was put back together or other plastics related to the pots? I have a bunch of broken controllers with good pots if it really is the pots.

[DocEss]

Yeah, it was a problem I noticed before I repaired the buttons. If you pull the stick to the left, it just stays there. On Gyruss (if you imagine it as a clock face), you can only move from 12 to 3 and back. They're really sticky, don't want to move properly. I'm pretty sure they're the problem. Everything else (plastics-wise) seems fine, as when the controller is apart, the stick moves freely, and defaults back to center with no issue.

 

Admittedly, I'm new to repairing these, so, if that sounds like another issue, please do let me know. The more of these I have in working order, the better.

Edited July 20, 2010 by DocEss

[BigO]

Yeah, it was a problem I noticed before I repaired the buttons. If you pull the stick to the left, it just stays there. On Gyruss (if you imagine it as a clock face), you can only move from 12 to 3 and back. They're really sticky, don't want to move properly. I'm pretty sure they're the problem. Everything else (plastics-wise) seems fine, as when the controller is apart, the stick moves freely, and defaults back to center with no issue.

 

Admittedly, I'm new to repairing these, so, if that sounds like another issue, please do let me know. The more of these I have in working order, the better.

One of the oft-hated things about these controllers is that they were not designed to automatically return to center.

[DocEss]

Yeah, it was a problem I noticed before I repaired the buttons. If you pull the stick to the left, it just stays there. On Gyruss (if you imagine it as a clock face), you can only move from 12 to 3 and back. They're really sticky, don't want to move properly. I'm pretty sure they're the problem. Everything else (plastics-wise) seems fine, as when the controller is apart, the stick moves freely, and defaults back to center with no issue.

 

Admittedly, I'm new to repairing these, so, if that sounds like another issue, please do let me know. The more of these I have in working order, the better.

One of the oft-hated things about these controllers is that they were not designed to automatically return to center.

 

Yeah, I just mean the rubber boot+plastics will bring the stick back to default, when it's not connected to the pots. As in, it's not the plastics/stick assembly holding it locked in place. My fully working stick centers, more or less. It doesn't just stay forced in whatever spot you left it. This one literally locks left, and has to be forced back to center. Definitely not how it should be. However, when pulled up or down, it generalls centers via the boot. It's just left that is really, really bad off.

[jmetal88]

If I were you, I'd pick up a can of contact cleaner at Radio Shack and spray it on the pot shafts.

[atariksi]

Well, if you open up the joystick and insert Super Breakout into the computer and start it up and if the left/right pots don't cover the entire X-axis then I would say it's the pot.

[DocEss]

Well, if you open up the joystick and insert Super Breakout into the computer and start it up and if the left/right pots don't cover the entire X-axis then I would say it's the pot.

 

I'll give that a test when I get home tonight.

 

Admittedly, the way I am about repairing things though, I'd rather just replace them and be done with it.

Edited July 20, 2010 by DocEss

[Divya16]

Well, if you open up the joystick and insert Super Breakout into the computer and start it up and if the left/right pots don't cover the entire X-axis then I would say it's the pot.

 

I'll give that a test when I get home tonight.

 

Admittedly, the way I am about repairing things though, I'd rather just replace them and be done with it.

 

Missile command allows you to test both axes. Star Wars also but that may be not using the full range.

[eightbit]

I spoke with someone at Best today and they say that they have gotten literally no of their gold units back since 2005. So, by that estimate, should be years as long as they are taken care of

[DocEss]

Even cleaning the pot shafts still finds the stick reacting badly, sticking when it moves, and generally not responding properly.

[Chris Leach]

I've recently gotten a handful of rebuilt controllers. (BEST, gold contacts, etc.) If I casually play the machine (likely less than my 2600 or 7800, presume maybe 10 hours/month or less) what kind of lifespan can I expect before replacing the controllers (again)?

 

Depends on which games you play and how passionate you are about the game.

 

It's like estimating how many atoms burn up on a tire when you press the brakes-- should last long if they are gold and don't oxidize easily.

 

Primarily your standard arcade ports. (Ms) Pac-man, Gyruss, Galaxian, Berzerk (hell of a lot of Berzerk), Vanguard, stuff like that. Maybe even some Kangaroo. Some Zaxxon if I can track down a copy.

 

I try not to get to vigorous with the controllers, however, because I'm fully aware of their fragility. Was just shooting for sort of an average. Like 2-3 years, 12-18 months, stuff like that.

 

 

I just traded off a Zaxxon to my good friend E******* I hope he is enjoyin it....! I also traded a pair of refurbished controllers to him that did not work and he was well aware of the situation before the trade took place, but those were refurbed in 2004 if I recall...they nevered work since I opened them...Not sure if they had gold contacts though...

 

You might ask him whats inside....?