daafies Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 hi all, i was hoping you can help me with somehting. yesterday i got a 5200 from ebay, with "bad controllers". i cleaned the controllers and they didnt look too bad. still when i plug them in, the buttons dont work. i removed the flex circuit and went over it with my multi-meter and it seems OK. then i went online and found this: http://pinouts.ru/Inputs/JoystickAtari5200_pinout.shtml and http://www.atarihq.com/danb/images/5200stik.jpg using this i shorted pins 4 and 7 (start), 4 and 5 ( pause), and 4 and 5(reset) directly on the port 1 on the console (male 15 pin connector) and this also didnt seem to have any effect. i guess the question is, am i correct in thinking that shorting those pins will perform the start, pause and reset? if so, the next thing to check is if the connecter is still soldered ok to the motherboard? thanks! david Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohoki Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 hi all, i was hoping you can help me with somehting. yesterday i got a 5200 from ebay, with "bad controllers". i cleaned the controllers and they didnt look too bad. still when i plug them in, the buttons dont work. i removed the flex circuit and went over it with my multi-meter and it seems OK. then i went online and found this: http://pinouts.ru/Inputs/JoystickAtari5200_pinout.shtml and http://www.atarihq.com/danb/images/5200stik.jpg using this i shorted pins 4 and 7 (start), 4 and 5 ( pause), and 4 and 5(reset) directly on the port 1 on the console (male 15 pin connector) and this also didnt seem to have any effect. i guess the question is, am i correct in thinking that shorting those pins will perform the start, pause and reset? if so, the next thing to check is if the connecter is still soldered ok to the motherboard? thanks! david yep the top row is a matrix array i'm used to just soldering a pushbutton betwen 4 and 7 on my plugs when i make pc adapters just keep the top row from touching the bottom especially pin 12 in fact controllers don't even wire that one its only used on the tracball Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariksi Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 hi all, i was hoping you can help me with somehting. yesterday i got a 5200 from ebay, with "bad controllers". i cleaned the controllers and they didnt look too bad. still when i plug them in, the buttons dont work. i removed the flex circuit and went over it with my multi-meter and it seems OK. then i went online and found this: http://pinouts.ru/Inputs/JoystickAtari5200_pinout.shtml and http://www.atarihq.com/danb/images/5200stik.jpg using this i shorted pins 4 and 7 (start), 4 and 5 ( pause), and 4 and 5(reset) directly on the port 1 on the console (male 15 pin connector) and this also didnt seem to have any effect. i guess the question is, am i correct in thinking that shorting those pins will perform the start, pause and reset? if so, the next thing to check is if the connecter is still soldered ok to the motherboard? thanks! david You can't short all of them at the same time as only one of those keys can be read by POKEY at one time. Only maximum of one of the pins 5,6, or 7 should be shorted to pin 7. Even a resistor from the touchpad between different pins causes misreads of the keys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 hi all, i was hoping you can help me with somehting. yesterday i got a 5200 from ebay, with "bad controllers". i cleaned the controllers and they didnt look too bad. still when i plug them in, the buttons dont work. i removed the flex circuit and went over it with my multi-meter and it seems OK. then i went online and found this: http://pinouts.ru/Inputs/JoystickAtari5200_pinout.shtml and http://www.atarihq.com/danb/images/5200stik.jpg using this i shorted pins 4 and 7 (start), 4 and 5 ( pause), and 4 and 5(reset) directly on the port 1 on the console (male 15 pin connector) and this also didnt seem to have any effect. i guess the question is, am i correct in thinking that shorting those pins will perform the start, pause and reset? if so, the next thing to check is if the connecter is still soldered ok to the motherboard? thanks! david Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 Thanks guys. No I'm not shorting all at same time. Just the one to eliminate the joystick as the prob.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohoki Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 hi all, i was hoping you can help me with somehting. yesterday i got a 5200 from ebay, with "bad controllers". i cleaned the controllers and they didnt look too bad. still when i plug them in, the buttons dont work. i removed the flex circuit and went over it with my multi-meter and it seems OK. then i went online and found this: http://pinouts.ru/Inputs/JoystickAtari5200_pinout.shtml and http://www.atarihq.com/danb/images/5200stik.jpg using this i shorted pins 4 and 7 (start), 4 and 5 ( pause), and 4 and 5(reset) directly on the port 1 on the console (male 15 pin connector) and this also didnt seem to have any effect. i guess the question is, am i correct in thinking that shorting those pins will perform the start, pause and reset? if so, the next thing to check is if the connecter is still soldered ok to the motherboard? thanks! david are you sure you counted over the right direction the pins are convienient but sometimes i get mixed up 12345678 oooooooo which game are you testing it with for the buttons i test with galaxian since each button is a different level+start so pressing 5 starts the game on level 5 i woudl not have taken the flex out of the controller its kind of fragile leave it in place and just rub a penny on the traces to actuate a button most of the carbon disks act like resistors i think the max my system can handle to activate a button is like 12k on some crusty controllers when i plug a meter in to test the button presses sometimes i get a meg of resistance the machine is happy with dead shorts on the matrix but to it one meg may as well be ∞ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 I've tried galaxian. I'm opening it up and checking inside. Thanks for suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 first of all thanks for all your reply guys. so i did open the system up yesterday and gave it a quick clean. (very dusty). so after i had done that i noticed a lot of modification to the board. for one i saw what i think is a resistor over 2 pins on the pokey chip. and other soldering. after i removed this pokey chip mod the system worked! see here 2 vids i made showing the mods: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPUJItrw7cw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1v-k8ke0Xk do any of you know what this mod is? thanks! david ps sorry for the poor vid quality Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 not sure about the pin numbers, but the resistor? was soldered on the first pin from the left, and pin 4 from the right. when looking at it from the front, controller port side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariksi Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 first of all thanks for all your reply guys. so i did open the system up yesterday and gave it a quick clean. (very dusty). so after i had done that i noticed a lot of modification to the board. for one i saw what i think is a resistor over 2 pins on the pokey chip. and other soldering. after i removed this pokey chip mod the system worked! see here 2 vids i made showing the mods: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPUJItrw7cw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1v-k8ke0Xk do any of you know what this mod is? thanks! david ps sorry for the poor vid quality Maybe a modification to allow using Atari 2600 VCS adapter on 4-port Atari 5200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohoki Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 not sure about the pin numbers, but the resistor? was soldered on the first pin from the left, and pin 4 from the right. when looking at it from the front, controller port side. i think that was a capacitor on the pokey and electrolytic caps hardly ever last 30 years so it probably had an internal short scrwing up the function it was doing (which i'm not sure of (maybe jitter reduction) well if you can get a game to start whoo hoo there is a couple games you can get the game to start without a start button i think robotron and mr do castle back in the old days when my start buttons died i would just play them (until i became more proficient with electronics) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 first of all thanks for all your reply guys. so i did open the system up yesterday and gave it a quick clean. (very dusty). so after i had done that i noticed a lot of modification to the board. for one i saw what i think is a resistor over 2 pins on the pokey chip. and other soldering. after i removed this pokey chip mod the system worked! see here 2 vids i made showing the mods: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPUJItrw7cw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1v-k8ke0Xk do any of you know what this mod is? thanks! david ps sorry for the poor vid quality Maybe a modification to allow using Atari 2600 VCS adapter on 4-port Atari 5200. i think you're right! from what i found online, this seems to be just that. thanks for the suggestion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 not sure about the pin numbers, but the resistor? was soldered on the first pin from the left, and pin 4 from the right. when looking at it from the front, controller port side. i think that was a capacitor on the pokey and electrolytic caps hardly ever last 30 years so it probably had an internal short scrwing up the function it was doing (which i'm not sure of (maybe jitter reduction) well if you can get a game to start whoo hoo there is a couple games you can get the game to start without a start button i think robotron and mr do castle back in the old days when my start buttons died i would just play them (until i became more proficient with electronics) ah OK. well, yes with it removed i can now play all my games. so i'm good btw, i went to best electronics and got the 'rev 9' flex circuit and matching gold contact buttons for the controllers. have not put them in yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 little update on this. so i did put the gold flex circuits and buttons in my controllers a while ago. and that helped. altough i wasnt very happy with it still. occasioanlly button presses werent registered immediately, or only after pressing couple times. but then, last week, it gave out again, now i could only start a game by pressing start on controller 2, and playing the game on controller 1. haha. also on controller one, of all the buttons, only the fire buttons worked. now i had read somewhere that occassionally the 5 4052 MUX chips on the board give out. that seemed to explain my problems, so i replaced them and now its working like never before! its very responsive. and just awesome, really. its a bit of a job, with the desoldering and soldering new ones back in, but they're cheap parts and totally worth it. thanks for all your help guys. david Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAtarian Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 Be careful how you short the connections. One of mine looks like someone pierced the rubber with a sharp object of some kind and left a deep gouge in the mylar and cut into some of the traces underneath. I seriously doubt this one is going to be repairable without replacing the flex circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 Be careful how you short the connections. One of mine looks like someone pierced the rubber with a sharp object of some kind and left a deep gouge in the mylar and cut into some of the traces underneath. I seriously doubt this one is going to be repairable without replacing the flex circuit. I was shorting the pins on the port. That way I ruled out the controllers. Which were in fact also bad Sorry to hear about your controllers. Changing the flex circuits is easy enough. Recommended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 To clarify, the latest problem was the muxes in the 5200. The controllers are awesome ever since I retrofitted them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamakazi Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 It sounds like your problem is solved. But I have to mention that the issues sounded like someone attempted to perform a modification to support the VCS Adapter. They obviously didn't know what they were doing and almost sacrificed the entire mainboard. Glad to hear you got it working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 Agreed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootiecat Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Does anyone know of where I could get a 5200 controller that is inexpensive ($15.00 or less)? Both of mine are not working completely and I am not good with electronics and fixing/modifying them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohoki Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Does anyone know of where I could get a 5200 controller that is inexpensive ($15.00 or less)? Both of mine are not working completely and I am not good with electronics and fixing/modifying them. you got to ask how is it worth someones time to fix and verify controller works for that amount i guess you can keep up on ebay i would recommend buying a pc controller to 5200 adapter and buy this eBay Auction -- Item Number: 280603629755 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_ Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 Does anyone know of where I could get a 5200 controller that is inexpensive ($15.00 or less)? Both of mine are not working completely and I am not good with electronics and fixing/modifying them. I'd be happy to clean up the contacts and see if that fixes them. I don't want anything for it, just pay for the shipping. PM me if your interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daafies Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 i think you'll be hard pressed finding a working one for that money. they might just need a clean. i would take up on the offer above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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