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Sega Master System and SNES Dead


thegamezmaster

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I still have my first SMS and years ago I accidentally grabbed the wrong power supply, plugged it in and turned it on. The light came on very briefly then went out. I know....idiot! Anyway just found it, took it apart and saw no obvious blown components. This is the first deck I bought after the crash and would really like to fix. The SNES is just dead, got at garage sale, of course they said it worked NOT! My troubleshooting skills are bare minimum at best but I can measure things with a multimeter. Can anyone please help me in what things I should be checking on either of these decks? Any help someone can give me is greatly apopreciated, thanks.

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This might help if this is similar to you circuit. If not a picture might help. This was the only SMS schematic I saw.

post-18310-0-95278000-1310515932_thumb.jpg

 

To expand on Zylon with some pictures. Check for 5V coming out of the LM7805. If you don't see anything then you should suspect C50 or the LM7805. Applying reverse voltage to these components will cause them to die.

 

On the SNES I would start in the same place. Look for obvious signs of damage then check the LM7805 for 5v on the output.

Edited by jamesk
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SNES is most likely a simple 1.5 amp picofuse located toward the rear left of the console's main board. You can test this by taking the console case apart (special security bit required) and using a dual-alligator-clip wire to temporarily bypass this fuse. If the system powers on fine and plays games then a simple replacement of the fuse will do the trick.

 

Here is a link to a site that sells the exact fuse. I think you can get something similar at Radio Shack for cheap though.

 

Minimal soldering skill is all you will need and that SNES will be working like new again.

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SNES is most likely a simple 1.5 amp picofuse located toward the rear left of the console's main board. You can test this by taking the console case apart (special security bit required) and using a dual-alligator-clip wire to temporarily bypass this fuse. If the system powers on fine and plays games then a simple replacement of the fuse will do the trick.

 

Here is a link to a site that sells the exact fuse. I think you can get something similar at Radio Shack for cheap though.

 

Minimal soldering skill is all you will need and that SNES will be working like new again.

 

What should the fuse read if bad?

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Just bridge the gap using a paper clip or something and see if the light comes on. If it does, replace the fuse.

 

Went to do that and the dumb thing started working before I could use the bridge. Just wanted to make sure it was dead and plugged in a ps and turned it on and the front light lite up. Go figure. Now to get the Sega Master System fixed. Thanks for the help everyone.

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Just bridge the gap using a paper clip or something and see if the light comes on. If it does, replace the fuse.

 

Went to do that and the dumb thing started working before I could use the bridge. Just wanted to make sure it was dead and plugged in a ps and turned it on and the front light lite up. Go figure. Now to get the Sega Master System fixed. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

Excellent! Always good to hear that a system is back up and running for some great game play! :thumbsup:

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I've used a Genesis power supply on a Turbo Grafx 16, Super Nintendo (had to adapt it), Nintendo, Duo, etc.

You probably used a compatible PSU which had DC (which works for both Super Nintendo and Sega Genesis) instead of AC (which only works for Super Nintendo and NES). These things were oftenly sold on videogames stores and sometimes, being unregulated and not meeting the required consumption to stabilize the current enough, they were great... In reducing the lifespan of the console.

 

Cheers,

Oge

Edited by Oge
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What power supply are you using? 15V sounds a bit high for a 9V supply even when it isn't loaded down. I agree that it sounds like the voltage regulator needs to be replaced. I don't know about the capacitor, though. I don't have a SMS handy where I am right now, so I can't look at the guts to know if the capacitor you are referencing is electrolytic or not. Can you post a picture of it?

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