+wongojack Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Craigslist offer and he claims its all working. He says its a 2 port system, no games. I have zero 5200 games which makes this kinda not fun, but he only wants $25. Any advice is welcome and appreciated. I'm sure there is a better question than this, but what is the correct voltage and amp of the psu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorclu Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 I'd say get it. I've picked up a few game systems with no games, not a big deal. You'll find games as you go. As for the power supply, see if they have one, if not they can be ordered somewhere else (ebay, best Electronics.. many places actually...) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpressed Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 If the controllers are working, it's a steal. If you can find a two-button game like Moon Patrol or Qix, you can test all the fire buttons. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_ Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Its already worth $25 in parts even if it doesn't work 100%. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wongojack Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Thanks guys - I thought it was a good deal. I'll report back later. Anyone want to send me an ultra common that works so I can test? I'll post in the marketplace once I get it home, but if anyone here wants to unload a UC or 2, PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wongojack Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 (edited) Ugh, I just typed a really long post and lost it . . . The short version is I got the 5200 for $25. It had something klunking around in it which ended up being this (pliers are there to judge size): The markings on it are C0|8|35 A which are similar to the markings on the joystick port, but I couldn't see evidence of anything broken inside. When I hook to a TV and turn it on, the red light comes on and the screen changes from RF fuzz to completely black - a good sign. I'm working on getting some games . . . would like a DB9 controller coupler too. Edited December 1, 2011 by wongojack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Cafeman Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 That little piece that was clunking around - it looks like one side of the controller bay's cover broke off. I don't even have that cover on my in-use 5200 for that same reason. Turning on the 5200 with no game inserted should indeed produce a quiet black screen. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohoki Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 that chunk looks like what is left of the trap door go on ebay you should be able to get pac-man for $5 delivered or buy a game lot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wongojack Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 (edited) Thanks to AA user madman, I got some games and can confirm that the 5200 works! I got a lot of RF noise (audio), but it played fine. I did a bunch of testing. One of my sticks seems to have a set of mostly working buttons, the other works, but the side buttons do not. I couldn't confirm if the lower side buttons worked at all. I think the number pad buttons work just fine on both. The start button on one of them was kinda touchy. Anyway, it seems that its fairly easy to fix the side buttons with some foil or other conductive thing. I'll probably give the insides a once over here soon and I expect to have 2 working sticks. Is there a nice walkthrough someone could link for me that shows how to disassemble the sticks - I've heard its not really that straightforward. I also recently picked up a 2600 adapter that doesn't seem to work right. I have a 2 port 5200 so it should be compatable right? When I put it in with a game, I get various distorted images - Superman for instance just gives me about 6 solid red verticle bars about an inch in width. Megamania gave me thin wavy diagonal lines and Combat gave me a complete black screen. Does anyone know what behavior you get if you try to use the adapter in a non-compatable 5200? Is it similar to what I'm seeing? Turning it on with no game shows a lot of mixed up colored garbage seems like it was mostly blue and yellow. I was surprised that you could insert the adapter oriented multiple ways - hopefully there is no harm to doing that because I tried it Edited December 11, 2011 by wongojack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DamonicFury Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Here's Best Electronics instructions for opening up the CX52... http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/cx52_j.htm The key is to get the front bezel (the plastic bit with the Start/Pause/Reset buttons) off first. If you don't, the underlying flex circuit may get bent up during disassembly, and if that gets bent-up, those buttons may not work so great in the future. (If there's a way to fix that kind of flex circuit damage, I don't know what it is, other than replacing it with a new one.) Best would obviously prefer you to buy their gold-plated replacement parts, but many of us have had good luck just crazy gluing bits of aluminum foil to the carbon dots of the fire and S/P/R buttons. As for the 2600 adapter, it should work fine given that you have a 2-port system. Sounds like your 2600 carts may just be a bit dirty. Clean 'em off with the good ol alcohol and Q-tip method and see if you have better luck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wongojack Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 Here's Best Electronics instructions for opening up the CX52... http://www.best-elec....com/cx52_j.htm The key is to get the front bezel (the plastic bit with the Start/Pause/Reset buttons) off first. If you don't, the underlying flex circuit may get bent up during disassembly, and if that gets bent-up, those buttons may not work so great in the future. (If there's a way to fix that kind of flex circuit damage, I don't know what it is, other than replacing it with a new one.) Best would obviously prefer you to buy their gold-plated replacement parts, but many of us have had good luck just crazy gluing bits of aluminum foil to the carbon dots of the fire and S/P/R buttons. As for the 2600 adapter, it should work fine given that you have a 2-port system. Sounds like your 2600 carts may just be a bit dirty. Clean 'em off with the good ol alcohol and Q-tip method and see if you have better luck. Thanks for the tips As for the 2600 adapter, carts are clean and they work fine in an actual 2600. I always clean with 99% ethanol when I get used stuff . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wongojack Posted April 28, 2013 Author Share Posted April 28, 2013 Finally got the sticks working by cleaning them up and using some copper foil dots on the lower "fire" buttons. Both sticks work great. 2600 adapter has been repaired. Seems it had some broken trace wires that someone repaired with low guage wire manually. It works sporadically, but has some distortion and lines and stuff. Not sure exactly what this thing has been through. It is what it is. All in all, this was a great deal for me. Working 5200 and now 2 working sticks. Prolly will get the flashcart to get the full experience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow460 Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Heck yeah, Just about any 5200 is worth $25 no matter what condition it's in. Enjoy it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.