Fixing a PAL CX2600

[Vertigo]

Hi,

 

Fixing up a PAL CX2600 for a mate.

It's been sat in storage for quite a while and wasn't powering up.

Initially, it did nothing.

 

Things I've done:

Tuned a channel on my TV to channel 36.

Checked the voltage coming from the PSU, which is correct.

Checked continuity on the aerial. which is fine.

Checked the voltages on the regulator (9.2 in, 5.0 out), which are both correct.

Reflowed cracked solder joints where the power supply meets the main board.

Cleaned edge connectors on two cartridges (Solar Fox and Combat) using isopropyl alcohol.

Cleaned the console edge connector with isopropyl alcohol by virtue of applying it to the cartridge and repeated insertion.

 

So far, we've gone from it doing nothing to getting a picture for half a second, then the screen goes black.

Sometimes the picture is of the game, so it's booted. Sometimes I get junk on the screen.

 

Something I have noticed is that the power switch is not functioning correctly.

It feels a little loose, like connection isn't always being made. Sometimes when I push it downwards, the power stays on and it needs jiggling. Sometimes the power is off and I can push the power switch down slightly and power will come on.

 

Do you think the power switch is the root of the problem? Bearing in mind that when I do get the picture come up for half a second, I don't take my hand from the power switch. The power is still on when the screen goes black. Could it be that the dodgy power switch means the console's getting current for long enough to boot but then not enough after that?

 

I've just realised I should probably check the on end of the power switch is getting 5v when it's on, which I'll do later.

 

Does anyone have ideas of another thing to check or am I looking at desoldering and completely stripping down the power switch?

[31336haxx0r]

To me it looks like a problem with the edge connector (corrosion, etc.). Can you test the carts in a known working system?

[RodLightning]

 

I've just realised I should probably check the on end of the power switch is getting 5v when it's on, which I'll do later.

 

Does anyone have ideas of another thing to check or am I looking at desoldering and completely stripping down the power switch?

 

I had a dirty power switch on my 4 switch 2600 that caused power problems. The switches can be cleaned with a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol. The on/off style switches on the left can be carefully taken apart without desoldering. Inside are two removable metal contacts, but they are delicate and can be difficult to tightly reassemble with their bottom halves still soldered down! I would try taking one apart only as a last resort. Mine is ntsc but I doubt the power switch is any different.

[Vertigo]

To me it looks like a problem with the edge connector (corrosion, etc.). Can you test the carts in a known working system?

No other system available to try it in but it's entirely possible that the ghetto cleaning I did by using an alcohol soaked cartridge has done something, in which case this would certainly be an option for the next phase.

I had a dirty power switch on my 4 switch 2600 that caused power problems. The switches can be cleaned with a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol. The on/off style switches on the left can be carefully taken apart without desoldering. Inside are two removable metal contacts, but they are delicate and can be difficult to tightly reassemble with their bottom halves still soldered down! I would try taking one apart only as a last resort. Mine is ntsc but I doubt the power switch is any different.

I believe it's the same as an NTSC system except for placement of some minor components and the different RF output box. I've tried spraying alcohol in there and giving it a good dose of moving but it doesn't appear to have solved the problem and I'm a little concerned that off doesn't often mean off as far as this switch goes. I've seen a tutorial page about taking them apart and cleaning and would be confident enough to give it a go with a little patience, so I'll also try that. It seems a little more delicate than cleaning the cartridge connector.

 

Thanks for both of your replies, I'll be back next week to let you know how I get on.

[alex_79]

I'd try soldering a jumper on the back of the board to bypass the power switch. If the console works with the jumper, then the switch is faulty and you can replace or fix it, else the problem is elsewere.

[Vertigo]

OK, I've managed to get the power switch functioning correctly using only the isopropyl and movement, so that seems OK, now turns on and off in the correct positions reliably and the voltage passing through is correct.

I've also cleaned the cartridge slot over a number of days using the soak and insert method (heh) but am still experiencing the same problem: the game comes on for half a second then the screen goes blank. I've tried a couple of games so it's not just the one game.

Anyone have any other ideas?