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"New" 5200 joystick from Best?


Coleco

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I know Brad said someone made a self centering part using I think counterweights and such... he said it worked great but to expensive to produce. There has to be a decent solution. Perhaps a tighter rubber boot or grommet of some sort would be easy enough just for a better feel.

Edited by AtariBrian
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ive used many ibm joysticks with the adapter there was this neat one that had a thumbstick it worked pretty good but the problem is that if you have a centering stick you need to have little calibration sliders

 

with the standard stick you find the center its very small but nearly all games have different direction trigger changes and the true analog games

 

you may notice if you put in superbreakout and center the puck leave the stick alone then put in kaboom you will notice it is no longer centered

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Here is the general theory and procedure I followed:

http://hackaday.com/...-your-retro-pc/

 

Here is the 5200 pinout:

http://www.atarihq.c...0faq/04_05.html

 

Parts:

 

2 trimmers

http://www.digikey.c...1318-ND/2408895

 

1 keypad

http://www.digikey.c...H5010-ND/213504

 

1 case

http://www.digikey.c...M916-ND/1090728

 

1 cable (a Neo Geo extension cable)

http://www.ebay.com/...=item1c2826bf82

 

1 joystick

http://www.digikey.c...B60NA-ND/303392

 

2 buttons

http://www.digikey.c...W637-ND/2235509

 

2 Capacitors

http://www.digikey.c...4251-ND/1021486

 

1 Header

http://www.digikey.c...S4008-ND/560040

 

1 joystick cap (hard to mount and use; mine is very loose and is basically stays in because the hole is too small for it to slip out)

http://www.dealextre...ir-72284?item=4

 

 

IMG_0767.jpg

 

IMG_0764.jpg

 

 

IMG_0766.jpg

 

IMG_0765.jpg

 

The junk you see around the thumb-stick is the remains of a rubber grommet. I had to remove the grommet because it restricted the thumb pad's motion too severely. You might be able to compensate for it with more capacitance but you would have to measure that out with a multimeter.

 

Also be careful when you lay out the button placement that you don't get too near a screw post or you'll have to mount the button with glue instead of the hex nut.

 

I ran the wires for the number pad into the header then attached that to the pins from the number pad. Work out your matrix carefully. I also used a small project board from radio shack to mount the joystick and organize my wires.

 

If you have an old pad to cannibalize the joystick and cap from like in the article then you may need different caps but you may also save yourself some headaches for mounting the cap too.

 

I had considered not cutting open the extension cable and simply mounting a male DB-15 socket on the front of the pad where the wire now enters.

Edited by yell0w_lantern
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Thanks, guys but it's really not quite as impressive in person. Even if I had the time to make them I would never sell them - it's too hack-y. Several parts are held together with glue and the thumbstick cap/hole is too lose and unrefined. I'm pleased with it as a first attempt but that's it. BUT I bet if everyone with a 5200 and a soldering iron tried to make one we could work out a perfect design through trial and error.

Edited by yell0w_lantern
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Here is the general theory and procedure I followed:

http://hackaday.com/...-your-retro-pc/

 

Here is the 5200 pinout:

http://www.atarihq.c...0faq/04_05.html

 

Parts:

 

 

1 joystick

http://www.digikey.c...B60NA-ND/303392

 

 

It's really too bad that 100K ohm is the highest value you can get in off-the-shelf parts. I inquired about a custom run of (1 Meg?) parts. Anything's possible, only certain things are profitable...

 

Even at 100K with the extra capacitance, I ran into some games that just didn't like my attempts at scratch-built and hacked 5200 controllers (http://www.atariage.com/forums/gallery/album/282-custom-built-5200-controller/ http://www.atariage.com/forums/gallery/album/281-5200-trackball-joystick-mod/) . I theorized that those games were sampling too fast, i.e. not holding the discharge line low long enough (or just couldn't sink enough current) to fully discharge the bigger capacitor in time. The necessary capacitance for a common 10K stick was unworkable entirely.

Edited by BigO
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I jury-rigged a 5200 stick once to self-center by wrapping some rubber bands around the various mounting posts inside the controller, and fitting the stick base through the middle where they crossed. It was pretty ghetto and ass-backward (which doesn't matter so much once the controller is closed up), but worked pretty well. The stick still had that loosey-goosey analog feel, but it centered.

 

I don't know if I still have the controller, though. I'll have to look.

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