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What's a good Atari 8-bit monitor to get?...


ataridave

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Commodore 1702 monitors also look fantastic, especially if your system supports S-Video (split Chroma and Luminance) with a monitor cable. I used one of these "back in the day", along with a Magnavox 80 column monitor once I got an XEP-80.

 

..Al

 

Don't forget though that if you use S-video you wont get artifact colors on games that use those.

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Don't forget though that if you use S-video you wont get artifact colors on games that use those.

 

That's odd - I tried my 800 NTSC machine with an s-video cable and did see the artefact colours using the Atarimania example:

 

GRAPHICS 8

COLOR 1

POKE 710,0

PLOT 60,60

PLOT 63,60

Got two different coloured pixels. Used this example to try out a new s-video cable I'd made.

 

Edit - Ah OK - as wood_jl posted below - the 800 is fine for this on s-video.

Edited by richard_g
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Don't forget though that if you use S-video you wont get artifact colors on games that use those.

 

This is true. I like the JVC TM-A13SU, too.

 

162475.jpg

 

 

 

Thanks to AA user "Bryan" for pointing me to it, some time ago! You're a fella full of good advice!

 

 

The Commodore 1702 is made by JVC, so they both (obviously) share excellent JVC quality. However, the TM-A13SU has some advantages:

 

(1) Displays PAL, as well as NTSC. This might not matter to some, but I love having a Euro-Atari for those demos which require PAL. This makes it easy, for Yankees.

 

(2) Full digital controls, so there's no dirty/crackling thumbwheel controls. I have a 1702 (and other monitors with thumbwheels) and the thumbwheels work fine, with maybe just a little crackling on the volume control changes, so thumbwheels are fine, too, but the digital controls are just a hair better.

 

(3) This is subjective, but I think the TM-A13SU is better-looking (e.g. sleeker) and it looks slightly better with an Atari computer. I love the 1702, so don't hate me. This is small stuff, but just sayin' it's a good-looking monitor.

 

(4) I like the inputs on the BACK of the monitor, while the 1702 requires standard (composite) to be plugged into the front.

 

(5) It has a standard DIN-type S-video connector, rather than the 2 RCAs for chroma/luma. In the old days, this would not have been a benefit, but today, S-video cables for the Atari (not to mention everything else) are much more commonly available than the "split" cable for 1702 and older monitors.

For example:

 

Here's an S-video Atari cable on Ebay: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 2308870777181?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=230887077718&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

Here's another, on Ebay: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 2308858611041?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=230885861104&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

Here is the best Atari 8-bit monitor cable, ever, from 8-bit Classics.

 

The 8-bit Classics cable is BOTH standard composite video (yellow plug) and S-video. Combined with the JVC TM-A13SU - a monitor with and S-video and composite video connector on the back, and the A / B input switch on the front, you have the best of both worlds: S-video sharpness most of the time, and Composite artifacting only when you desire it, with no cable swapping!

The 8-bit Classics cable splits the Atari's mono audio onto 2 plugs, so if you were to use this cable with a stereo TV, you'd get sound out of both speakers without having to mess with an RCA Y-cable. On this monitor (which is MONO), you can route one audio plug to each input, so you get sound on both the A and B setting!

 

(click pics to enlarge)

 

post-16281-0-10782900-1353877227_thumb.jpg

 

post-16281-0-91362900-1353877242_thumb.jpg

 

post-16281-0-81222700-1353877248_thumb.jpg

 

post-16281-0-31652100-1353877255_thumb.jpg

 

post-16281-0-92073000-1353877265_thumb.jpg

 

 

As always, no S-video with 800XL/1200XL unless someone solders-in a connector for the Chroma (not hard, but must be done). 800 (ol' beige), 65XE, 130XE are good to go, from the factory.

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The JVC TM-A13SU does look rather nice, I may need to pick up a few of those. I like that it has all the inputs on the back, and the PAL support is very nice as well. I can play PAL games on the 1702 (you can adjust them so they won't roll), but the colors aren't obviously right. I generally haven't had problems with the analog controls on the 1702, but I do have a monitor or two that has a noisy volume pot. I also have several 1702 monitors that need cap kits installed (have kits for three of them, just need to get that done).

 

For my needs, nearly all of the consoles I have that have been modified for S-Video output have RCA jacks for the chroma and luminance, and some also have an s-video jack, so they are already "hardwired" for the 1702, although I do have some cables I can use to convert the two RCA cables into an S-Video cable (need to find more of these, sa well as the opposite). I'll have to disagree with you about which is better looking. :D

 

The 1702 is what I used with my Atari 8-bits "back in the day", so I'm a bit biased towards those.

 

..Al

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  • 2 weeks later...

The XEs are functionally identical to the XLs. As regards durability: I've done lots of work on both XEs and XLs, and I personally haven't found the XEs to be less robust than XLs. You'll hear conflicting views there, though. I personally find the XEs to be the most stable and predictable. One advantage of the XL is that - for the most part - the chips are socketed.

 

What does it mean that the chips are socketed?

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This is true. I like the JVC TM-A13SU, too.

 

162475.jpg

 

 

 

Thanks to AA user "Bryan" for pointing me to it, some time ago! You're a fella full of good advice!

 

 

The Commodore 1702 is made by JVC, so they both (obviously) share excellent JVC quality. However, the TM-A13SU has some advantages:

 

(1) Displays PAL, as well as NTSC. This might not matter to some, but I love having a Euro-Atari for those demos which require PAL. This makes it easy, for Yankees.

 

(2) Full digital controls, so there's no dirty/crackling thumbwheel controls. I have a 1702 (and other monitors with thumbwheels) and the thumbwheels work fine, with maybe just a little crackling on the volume control changes, so thumbwheels are fine, too, but the digital controls are just a hair better.

 

(3) This is subjective, but I think the TM-A13SU is better-looking (e.g. sleeker) and it looks slightly better with an Atari computer. I love the 1702, so don't hate me. This is small stuff, but just sayin' it's a good-looking monitor.

 

(4) I like the inputs on the BACK of the monitor, while the 1702 requires standard (composite) to be plugged into the front.

 

(5) It has a standard DIN-type S-video connector, rather than the 2 RCAs for chroma/luma. In the old days, this would not have been a benefit, but today, S-video cables for the Atari (not to mention everything else) are much more commonly available than the "split" cable for 1702 and older monitors.

For example:

 

Here's an S-video Atari cable on Ebay: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 2308870777181?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=230887077718&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

Here's another, on Ebay: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 2308858611041?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=230885861104&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

Here is the best Atari 8-bit monitor cable, ever, from 8-bit Classics.

 

The 8-bit Classics cable is BOTH standard composite video (yellow plug) and S-video. Combined with the JVC TM-A13SU - a monitor with and S-video and composite video connector on the back, and the A / B input switch on the front, you have the best of both worlds: S-video sharpness most of the time, and Composite artifacting only when you desire it, with no cable swapping!

The 8-bit Classics cable splits the Atari's mono audio onto 2 plugs, so if you were to use this cable with a stereo TV, you'd get sound out of both speakers without having to mess with an RCA Y-cable. On this monitor (which is MONO), you can route one audio plug to each input, so you get sound on both the A and B setting!

 

(click pics to enlarge)

 

post-16281-0-10782900-1353877227_thumb.jpg

 

post-16281-0-91362900-1353877242_thumb.jpg

 

post-16281-0-81222700-1353877248_thumb.jpg

 

post-16281-0-31652100-1353877255_thumb.jpg

 

post-16281-0-92073000-1353877265_thumb.jpg

 

 

As always, no S-video with 800XL/1200XL unless someone solders-in a connector for the Chroma (not hard, but must be done). 800 (ol' beige), 65XE, 130XE are good to go, from the factory.

Looks like a studio or development monitor. Nice! I have a Sony Dev monitor I got from their movie production studio a few years ago when they got rid of most CRT's.

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What does it mean that the chips are socketed?

 

Just that they're pushed into sockets on the board, rather than the chip legs all being soldered directly to it. Hence they can be removed easily. De-soldering ICs from the motherboard is a fraught and dangerous business unless you're pretty confident with an iron.

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Looks like a studio or development monitor. Nice! I have a Sony Dev monitor I got from their movie production studio a few years ago when they got rid of most CRT's.

 

It's a professional/commercial display, but it's a P-22 tube, not a SMPTE-C one like most of the metal-encased ones. This is a good thing in my opinion, because SMPTE-C phosphors tend to look washed out and dim even though they produce a more accurate color spectrum. The TM-A13SU looks like what you would get from a typical composite computer monitor but with a very good picture.

 

I also have a JVC SMPTE-C monitor and I don't really like it for computer use.

 

http://forums.creativecow.net/archivepost/65/200642

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http://www.old-compu....asp?st=1&c=958

 

good luck hunting down the single prototype that is said to exist ;-)

 

Given the equipment available such as a XEGS keyboard, XF551, pc case and small monitor, i can see how this can be a project waiting to be built!.

 

Im possibly doing a A400 version of this if i accumulate some bits and piece over the next year - Given the color scheme - i think it will look retro-steampunk at the end of the day. ;)

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The other option is to use a video upscaler. I use a DVDO iScan with good results on a modern LCD panel. It works with composite or S-Video (would need the chroma mod on 800XL). I have a Commodore 1701 and the 1084, and they are both excellent, but it's nice to use an LCD. The biggest issue with using the LCD is that many "flaws" in the signal are visible which are softened by the CRT... I like the converted LCD output, but I can understand why some folks would not like it. There is also the fact that the scanlines are not emulated, making the image look a little washed out and pasty--some purists buy scanline generators (this is going too far for me). I also use an RCA XL100 TV that I use with RF based systems (I have not added composite to my 2600 or ColecoVision) and I also like the way it looks with the Atari.

 

I also have some monochrome displays. These are very sharp with an Atari 8 and work well with the XEP80 output. I have an Apple II era screen (green phosphorous) and an Amber NEC (with audio!) that I use for this.

 

Going back to the upscalers... they are not all the same! I have bought 4 or 5 different ones over the years, and many of the units either produce terrible quality output or will not correctly interpret the Atari signal. These can also get quite expensive, though there are professional quality units sold off on eBay for very little money, especially if you are willing to scrounge around for a compatible power supply or do minor repairs.

 

Here is a good post with details about the iScan unit from when I got mine (based on advice from AtariAge users): http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/197554-suitable-tvsmonitors-for-65xe/

Edited by bbking67
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Upscalers also potentially introduce lag. Video processing circuitry inside LCDs has the same possibility. This won't be noticed by most people but top tier twitch gamers might be affected. I stick to analog monitors so I know I'm getting the fastest possible response. There's no number crunching going on in an analog CRT, it's all just physics.

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