+grips03 Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Today I use the multimeter to record Atari 5200 analog resistance: pin 9 to pin 11 up = 16k center = 280k down = 426k pin 9 to pin 10 left = 12k center = 280k right = 416k I was wondering if up could be zero ohms and down could be infinite ohms? This would reduce the parts needed for digital controller PCB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 I went back and centered up the pots usings Pete's cart and looks like 350K - 380k is more in the center of the screen. I think the Atari has a pot on the system to adjust as well. Is that under the front panel near the led? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohoki Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) its easy enough to just make 500kohm the downs and rights if you let it go infinite the center drifts in some games i made a post about the actual triggering ohm ratings on various games many games are different what i did was wire in a 500k pot and just slowly rotate it till i got movement then turned off the system and used a multimeter here is my h-value of some games so centered stick is anywhere between max for left and minimum for right all values in k ohmmax resistance for left|center|min resistance for rightgyruss 70||484popeye 71||390montezumas revenge * 1||427wizwor 112||351space invaders 124||365digdug 128||394pengo 172||367choplifter 267||317 this one has a very tight centerkangaroo 186 323berzerk 176 444galaxian 152 351pacman 153 394ms pacman 183 322mariobros 140 421mr do* 1 470centipede 155 349pole position 172 298 very tight centerjoust* 1 434buck rogers 118 436defender 98 453qix 117 386these are the absolute position games so i just locked down a dead centersuper breakout 259kmissile command 260kkaboom! 233k Edited October 7, 2013 by bohoki Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) its easy enough to just make 500kohm the downs and rights if you let it go infinite the center drifts in some games i made a post about the actual triggering ohm ratings on various games many games are different what i did was wire in a 500k pot and just slowly rotate it till i got movement then turned off the system and used a multimeter here is my h-value of some games so centered stick is anywhere between max for left and minimum for right all values in k ohm max resistance for left|center|min resistance for right gyruss 70||484 popeye 71||390 montezumas revenge * 1||427 wizwor 112||351 space invaders 124||365 digdug 128||394 pengo 172||367 choplifter 267||317 this one has a very tight center kangaroo 186 323 berzerk 176 444 galaxian 152 351 pacman 153 394 ms pacman 183 322 mariobros 140 421 mr do* 1 470 centipede 155 349 pole position 172 298 very tight center joust* 1 434 buck rogers 118 436 defender 98 453 qix 117 386 these are the absolute position games so i just locked down a dead center super breakout 259k missile command 260k kaboom! 233k thanks for posting this. Are some really 1 or 1k ohm? they have a * next to them. Edited October 7, 2013 by grips03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foft Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 The pot inputs charge a 0.047uF capacitor from 5v through - at least on atari 800 - on the 5200 there is a pot common line I believe is also 5v. The pot values read are the number of scan lines it takes to charge the cap from 0v to around 2.2v (Schmitt trigger input - see pokey data sheet). One approach for a digital solution would be to do something like the Atari touch tablet. It rests at 1.8v then charges to 2.3v after a delay! So if you are reading a digital stick you convert the position to a delay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) right now I'm going to use an analog switch, mapped into the resistance reading I got from the Atari controller. I'll make sure to at least cover the games listed above. I might make another version that converts analog 10k pot joystick (think PS2 type controller). This version would be self centering and provide full analog support. Plan is use Arduino to analog read the 10K ps2 joystick type joystick and then i2c to a digital resistor with values to keep the Atari happy. Edited October 7, 2013 by grips03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohoki Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 the pot common provides enough power to light leds and run autofire circuits in my adapted pc joysticks also when you use pin 12 for the pot common the system treats it like a trakball so i have a switch on one of my homemade sticks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foft Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 also when you use pin 12 for the pot common the system treats it like a trakball so i have a switch on one of my homemade sticks Can you explain this please? I thought pot common was 5v with a variable resistor in the 5200 to fine tune. So I'm not sure I understand how the 5200 can tell if using pot common or 5v. Is it that pot common is enabled only when the stick is selected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 I got my digital pcb today and tried some resistors, so far I like: up/left = 59k H/V center = 280k down/right = 499k Right now design uses 2x DG413, 7404, 7432, 7408. Plan is to switch the 74xx logic to a CPLD to reduce parts. It would be cool if CPLD could also be the analog switch that selects the right resistor. There are 6 resistors on the board, two of each size above. Keypad and fire 1 & 2 run directly as they don't need any logic or different resistor values. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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