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What RF and AC Adapter do I need for a SMS II?


GoldenWheels

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Genesis uses a 9V negative tip. You can use a 9V DC Genesis adapter on NES but NEVER connect the 9V AC NES adapter to another console. I actually use a homemade frankendapter that created using a 9V Radio Shack adapter and spare tips. I my Atari, NES, SNES, and Genesis off my homemade creation, not all at the same time of course.

 

As for the RF bricks, the Nintendo and Sega brand RF units are interchangeable. The auto-switch bricks just won't work with Atari systems because they don't have the 5V DC bias necessary to operate the autoswitch. I ditched using RF switches on my consoles though. The thin RCA cable doesn't have adequate shielding or proper impedance matching compared to real Coax so i use this on all my consoles, whether nintendo, Sega, or Atari, basically the opposite of what the AA store sells. I also use a push adapter to connect the single RF cable between the TV and games console. The picture is much clearer than using the autoswitches, and the DC bias doesn't affect the picture.

pRS1C-2266125w345.jpg

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Genesis uses a 9V negative tip. You can use a 9V DC Genesis adapter on NES but NEVER connect the 9V AC NES adapter to another console. I actually use a homemade frankendapter that created using a 9V Radio Shack adapter and spare tips. I my Atari, NES, SNES, and Genesis off my homemade creation, not all at the same time of course.

 

As for the RF bricks, the Nintendo and Sega brand RF units are interchangeable. The auto-switch bricks just won't work with Atari systems because they don't have the 5V DC bias necessary to operate the autoswitch. I ditched using RF switches on my consoles though. The thin RCA cable doesn't have adequate shielding or proper impedance matching compared to real Coax so i use this on all my consoles, whether nintendo, Sega, or Atari, basically the opposite of what the AA store sells. I also use a push adapter to connect the single RF cable between the TV and games console. The picture is much clearer than using the autoswitches, and the DC bias doesn't affect the picture.

pRS1C-2266125w345.jpg

 

And you feel the latter setup is superior to say a newer composite cable with the Atari Age store-type tip? That's how I have my 7800 hooked up, RCA into the coaxial adapter. .

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And you feel the latter setup is superior to say a newer composite cable with the Atari Age store-type tip? That's how I have my 7800 hooked up, RCA into the coaxial adapter. .

Possibly if you use a shielded "digital" shielded coax RCA. Either will result in a better picture than say a 20-year-old switchbox but the F-connect coax TV cables are cheaper per foot than premium "digital" shielded coax RCA, and are specifically designed for RF reception. There's probably very little difference with a 6-foot cable as long as it's not "walmart junk" quality.

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Possibly if you use a shielded "digital" shielded coax RCA. Either will result in a better picture than say a 20-year-old switchbox but the F-connect coax TV cables are cheaper per foot than premium "digital" shielded coax RCA, and are specifically designed for RF reception. There's probably very little difference with a 6-foot cable as long as it's not "walmart junk" quality.

I get most of my stuff from monoprice which seems to be pretty good. I was considering using a short rca subwoofer cable (these apparently have more shielding than regular rcas and are barely more expensive). But I am interested to try it your way now.

 

My 7800 looks kinda crap honestly (flicker and some color loss) and I wonder if I am getting some for of interference. I do have like 8 systems plus an AVR plugged in on the same rack.

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I get most of my stuff from monoprice which seems to be pretty good. I was considering using a short rca subwoofer cable (these apparently have more shielding than regular rcas and are barely more expensive). But I am interested to try it your way now.

 

My 7800 looks kinda crap honestly (flicker and some color loss) and I wonder if I am getting some for of interference. I do have like 8 systems plus an AVR plugged in on the same rack.

Atari%202600%20back.jpg

I have a right angle RCA - F connector inside the Atari with a 1 foot Coax and a coupler mounted on the case. I also mounted a large ferrite choke on the internal cable. My reception is flawless (absolutely no visible snow/fuzzies at all) save for a tiny amount of color bleed equal to roughly half a sprite pixel in width, which is an intrinsic quality of the built in RF modulator.

 

All my other consoles have A/V outputs in addition to RF but I stupidly lost the remote to my Symphonic CRT TV and can't access the A/V connectors without it. I've added the F-adapter to all my other consoles so I can use the same TV cable for all of them. I also picked up an N64 RF modulator for the N64, Game Cube, and A/V Famicom. Ironically the N64 adapter doesn't fit the SNES but it has it's own built in modulator. The picture is much cleaner with the direct coax cabling than with the autoswitch NES/Sega RF adapters (the autoswitch boxes do not work with Atari consoles).

Edited by stardust4ever
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Why not get a universal remote?

Been there, done that. I had an RCA universal remote once. The TV remote has a button labeled "GAME" instead of "Input". The "Input" button on the universal remote does nothing with my TV. It's surprizing the number of essential functions many "universal" remotes lack. Most universal remotes don't include "aspect ratio" buttons either, which is critical for proper viewing if you own a widescreen display. My remote is laying around somewhere; I've just got to clean my room to find it. Ironically, the RCA universal remote featured access to something the original remote didn't: the service menu. Not that there was much useful functions available to begin with, and it is very easy to FUBAR the display.

Edited by stardust4ever
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