+GoldenWheels Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Topic! Anyone help me out with what RF cable and AC power cord I need for a Sega Master System 2? When I google or ebay search it I only get model one (or unclear) results. I am hoping I can use something I already have in both cases (NES or SMS 1 RF? Maybe power supplies too?). Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Bear Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 (edited) You can use a Mega Drive/Genesis Model 1 PSU with a Master System 2 I believe. I don't know about the RF cable though. Edited November 30, 2013 by SkullBlade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApolloBoy Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 The RF switchbox is the same as most other systems, you can use an NES or SMS switchbox no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Your SMS1 stuff will be just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+GoldenWheels Posted December 2, 2013 Author Share Posted December 2, 2013 Excellent, thanks guys. RF I didn't mind testing out, can't hurt. Power supplies made me more nervous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Genesis uses a 9V negative tip. You can use a 9V DC Genesis adapter on NES but NEVER connect the 9V AC NES adapter to another console. I actually use a homemade frankendapter that created using a 9V Radio Shack adapter and spare tips. I my Atari, NES, SNES, and Genesis off my homemade creation, not all at the same time of course. As for the RF bricks, the Nintendo and Sega brand RF units are interchangeable. The auto-switch bricks just won't work with Atari systems because they don't have the 5V DC bias necessary to operate the autoswitch. I ditched using RF switches on my consoles though. The thin RCA cable doesn't have adequate shielding or proper impedance matching compared to real Coax so i use this on all my consoles, whether nintendo, Sega, or Atari, basically the opposite of what the AA store sells. I also use a push adapter to connect the single RF cable between the TV and games console. The picture is much clearer than using the autoswitches, and the DC bias doesn't affect the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+GoldenWheels Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Genesis uses a 9V negative tip. You can use a 9V DC Genesis adapter on NES but NEVER connect the 9V AC NES adapter to another console. I actually use a homemade frankendapter that created using a 9V Radio Shack adapter and spare tips. I my Atari, NES, SNES, and Genesis off my homemade creation, not all at the same time of course. As for the RF bricks, the Nintendo and Sega brand RF units are interchangeable. The auto-switch bricks just won't work with Atari systems because they don't have the 5V DC bias necessary to operate the autoswitch. I ditched using RF switches on my consoles though. The thin RCA cable doesn't have adequate shielding or proper impedance matching compared to real Coax so i use this on all my consoles, whether nintendo, Sega, or Atari, basically the opposite of what the AA store sells. I also use a push adapter to connect the single RF cable between the TV and games console. The picture is much clearer than using the autoswitches, and the DC bias doesn't affect the picture. And you feel the latter setup is superior to say a newer composite cable with the Atari Age store-type tip? That's how I have my 7800 hooked up, RCA into the coaxial adapter. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 And you feel the latter setup is superior to say a newer composite cable with the Atari Age store-type tip? That's how I have my 7800 hooked up, RCA into the coaxial adapter. . Possibly if you use a shielded "digital" shielded coax RCA. Either will result in a better picture than say a 20-year-old switchbox but the F-connect coax TV cables are cheaper per foot than premium "digital" shielded coax RCA, and are specifically designed for RF reception. There's probably very little difference with a 6-foot cable as long as it's not "walmart junk" quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+GoldenWheels Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Possibly if you use a shielded "digital" shielded coax RCA. Either will result in a better picture than say a 20-year-old switchbox but the F-connect coax TV cables are cheaper per foot than premium "digital" shielded coax RCA, and are specifically designed for RF reception. There's probably very little difference with a 6-foot cable as long as it's not "walmart junk" quality. I get most of my stuff from monoprice which seems to be pretty good. I was considering using a short rca subwoofer cable (these apparently have more shielding than regular rcas and are barely more expensive). But I am interested to try it your way now. My 7800 looks kinda crap honestly (flicker and some color loss) and I wonder if I am getting some for of interference. I do have like 8 systems plus an AVR plugged in on the same rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 (edited) I get most of my stuff from monoprice which seems to be pretty good. I was considering using a short rca subwoofer cable (these apparently have more shielding than regular rcas and are barely more expensive). But I am interested to try it your way now. My 7800 looks kinda crap honestly (flicker and some color loss) and I wonder if I am getting some for of interference. I do have like 8 systems plus an AVR plugged in on the same rack. I have a right angle RCA - F connector inside the Atari with a 1 foot Coax and a coupler mounted on the case. I also mounted a large ferrite choke on the internal cable. My reception is flawless (absolutely no visible snow/fuzzies at all) save for a tiny amount of color bleed equal to roughly half a sprite pixel in width, which is an intrinsic quality of the built in RF modulator. All my other consoles have A/V outputs in addition to RF but I stupidly lost the remote to my Symphonic CRT TV and can't access the A/V connectors without it. I've added the F-adapter to all my other consoles so I can use the same TV cable for all of them. I also picked up an N64 RF modulator for the N64, Game Cube, and A/V Famicom. Ironically the N64 adapter doesn't fit the SNES but it has it's own built in modulator. The picture is much cleaner with the direct coax cabling than with the autoswitch NES/Sega RF adapters (the autoswitch boxes do not work with Atari consoles). Edited December 3, 2013 by stardust4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApolloBoy Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 All my other consoles have A/V outputs in addition to RF but I stupidly lost the remote to my Symphonic CRT TV and can't access the A/V connectors without it.Why not get a universal remote? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 (edited) Why not get a universal remote? Been there, done that. I had an RCA universal remote once. The TV remote has a button labeled "GAME" instead of "Input". The "Input" button on the universal remote does nothing with my TV. It's surprizing the number of essential functions many "universal" remotes lack. Most universal remotes don't include "aspect ratio" buttons either, which is critical for proper viewing if you own a widescreen display. My remote is laying around somewhere; I've just got to clean my room to find it. Ironically, the RCA universal remote featured access to something the original remote didn't: the service menu. Not that there was much useful functions available to begin with, and it is very easy to FUBAR the display. Edited December 4, 2013 by stardust4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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