Tempest Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 I was playing around with my new 14" PVM and noticed that it has some sort of green issue ( the guy did mention this). Basically when you turn it on with no signal there's a green square in the middle that is very bright on one side. When you actually have a signal up on the screen you can barely see it, except for the very bright side ( even that is faint though). I'm wondering if it just needs to be degaussed or something (not sure how you do that on this monitor) or if its permanently messed up. Until I get the picture fixed I may want hold off on buying new cables and stick with my 1084. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wood_jl Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 8-Bit Classics has offered the "combo" S-video/composite cable for quite a while. Not that the others (ebay) aren't good, but so are these. I wrote about 'em some time ago here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/168575-where-to-score-chromaluma-cables/page-2?do=findComment&comment=2103501 They're still available here: http://www.8bitclassics.com/Atari-800-XL-XE-5-Pin-DIN-S-Video-Cable.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 BTW here are some pictures of my 'green problem'. What does everyone think? Is it a degaussing issue or something more serious? http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/green1.JPG http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/green2.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenjennings Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 For what its worth, we used to have a color TV that would look like that if the vacuum cleaner was run near the TV when the TV was turned on. The color shift would go away after switching the TV off and on a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACML Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 BTW here are some pictures of my 'green problem'. What does everyone think? Is it a degaussing issue or something more serious? http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/green1.JPG http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/green2.JI If you know someone with a degaussing donut, try it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Degaussing a CRT removes any magnetic field from the mask inside the tube. If the mask is magnetized, it will deflect the beam as it travels to the face of the screen - giving you a color 'blush' in your picture. On a pure white display, it will show a color. Your screen seems to have color on a dark display, which would indicate a color drive problem rather than a magnetized mask. Can you adjust the green drive? There should be a pot that says Green xxxx. Do not turn the adjustment very far. Return it to where you found it if it does not make your problem better (or, if worse - turn it the other way). Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Can you adjust the green drive? There should be a pot that says Green xxxx. Do not turn the adjustment very far. Return it to where you found it if it does not make your problem better (or, if worse - turn it the other way). In many of those newer monitors, the setup is all done in a hidden menu. Might be worth tracking down a service manual. Does the picture look clear aside from the green blob? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 I'm a bit nervous about going inside the monitor. Someone had suggested that it has something to do with the color purity on the yoke itself but as I said I don't want to zap myself. Maybe someone at the MGC can take a look at it. There is no color issue when the screen is white (tested it with Riddle of the Sphinx). The picture is very sharp aside from the color issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) oh my, that's a combination problem.... you have drive issues and convergence issues... you need spend some time in the config screens... most common way in on most of these is pressing: Display, Channel 5, Volume +, Power On in rapid succession you could also try pressing menu once and then pressing Degauss and Enter at the same time... that might get you in.... Then you can access all the geometry and drive functions http://www.mediafire.com/download/1wc0y5vo9v43b2r/PVM20M2_SM_SONY_EN.zip enjoy Edited March 7, 2014 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 If that doesn't do it check that the heavy flyback transformer is properly soldered they come lose if bounced about during shipping... lastly don't forget to check voltage regulators Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 oh my, that's a combination problem.... you have drive issues and convergence issues... you need spend some time in the config screens... most common way in on most of these is pressing: Display, Channel 5, Volume +, Power On in rapid succession you could also try pressing menu once and then pressing Degauss and Enter at the same time... that might get you in.... Then you can access all the geometry and drive functions http://www.mediafire.com/download/1wc0y5vo9v43b2r/PVM20M2_SM_SONY_EN.zip enjoy If that's the case then I'm going to declare this a lost cause. No way I'm going to be able to fix it. I'll try moving the purity rings, but if that doesn't fix it then I'm done. The service menu on mine is entered by pushing Menu and Enter at the same time. I looked at it but it's impossible to decipher even with the service manual I downloaded. Most of this stuff is a bit beyond me or requires some sort of signal generator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Don't mess around with convergence. You have brightness on the green gun that you should not have. Nothing indicates that the beams are out of alignment. Does the manual have something like 'Green Screen Voltage' or some such? Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 I don't think so. This is the manual I found. It covers several different models (mine is a PVM-14N6U): http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros/SSM-20N5U_9976686010-00e.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 wow... some monitor! #48 DRV G CVBS looks like your guy. Try it. You can also try some of the other CVBS controls, just to see how they affect the display. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 I tried adjusting #48 and the other DRV G controls and it didn't help. The rest of the screen and text got a green tint the higher I went, but the green square stayed the same. I guess it's not that simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 Yes, sorry. That is a Trinitron - haven't worked on any of those. They are different, but the guns should be off when there is no input. There should be a control for the gain of the green amplifier and the black level. Your black level looks off. Of course, if the driver transistor is leaking, you get output all the time, no matter where you set the controls. I would expect a green-level control that affects all modes, not just CVBS. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 I did some more tests and discovered that when a non-black image is displayed you can't see the green square. It's only when there's a black background (I tested it with Super Mario Bros.). I'm not sure what that indicates. I can try playing around with some of the other settings, but I'm starting to suspect its something internal that needs to be fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) from the picture I saw he had a green and red square.. and they did not overlap properly, convergence is not big deal on most sets these days.. its adjusted via menu not the yoke..... The voltage regulators for the drive circuits sometime fail throwing things off and the trinitron uses feedback from the flyback transformer to adjust some things..... Please google. sony pvm service mode... sony pvm flyback feedback and sony pvm regulator drive... It really has a good chance of being fixed... don't be afraid of pulling the cover... just stay away from the big thick wire going to the tube.... They touch up the flyback connections and move on from there... I consulted a friend who runs a medical equipment shop that uses these.... he said if after fiddling about with bias and drive and the touch ups, regulators good... then unfortunately the CRT is defective and will go more and more green... They used to replace the crt and all was fine... now they just sell em for parts on epay and go with modern led flat panel displays when one fails..... others may have different idea or take on this... Edited March 8, 2014 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 I'll fiddle with the service menu items some more, but I'm not too hopeful since none of the ones I was changing before had any effect whatsoever. If I can't fix it I'll bring it along to the MGC and see if someone there can fix it. I don't think it's worth dumping a lot of money into fixing this since it only cost me $10 in the first place. It's a nice little monitor, but it's not worth a huge repair bill. BTW here are two more pictures that show games running: http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/green3.JPG http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/green4.JPG Note how in the first picture there's no green box when the background is a color other than black. In the second shot you can see the green box is back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 The way the green box is offset and indistinct makes me think something is wrong inside the tube. That's the sort of problem I used to use gun rejuvenators to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 The way the green box is offset and indistinct makes me think something is wrong inside the tube. That's the sort of problem I used to use gun rejuvenators to fix. Gun rejuvenator? Never heard of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 Search for CRT rejuvenator on YouTube and you'll see a bunch of videos on it. Basically, it's a tool that burns off a layer of cathode material from the guns, often bringing old dim or shorted tubes back to life. Honestly, though, I'd just be on the lookout for another monitor rather than spend too much time on that one. Also remember, professional monitors often use SMPTE-C phosphor which is preferred for its color accuracy, but it emits less light and will always look dim compared to the P-22 phosphor used in consumer equipment. http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?18689-Monitor-p-22-vs-SMPTE-C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 You really have to be careful when zapping these.. I always tilted the crt so the yoke end was slightly higher than the front so the crap falls to the bottom of the tube but not enough to let it hit the screen in the sony crts. be careful not to zap it too long or hard.... you'll kill it... this is a bit of an art and I usually don't share this tid bit with people... I hate hearing how they zapped it and now it's dead... or It worked great for a bit and then crt died etc. For 10 dollars I would chance it but please be cautious when 'rejuvenating' you can alway adjust and re zap....depending on the equipment used.... good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 I'm loathe to spend much money trying to fix this thing. Maybe someone at the show can take a look at it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 Personally, I recommend the JVC TM-A13SU monitor. It uses a P-22 tube and handles NTSC and PAL. You can get a new one here: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 261396645760 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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