Possible Controller Fix Alternative

[kamakazi]

If others have already thought about this, or if it has already been mentioned before, then forgive me for repeating it. I just thought about it while trying out the Tempest game I got the other day. The game uses sensitive left and right movement. Barely move the joystick in any left of right direction the slower the ZAPPER moves. Full force movement causes the ZAPPER to travel around the levels at an amazing rate of speed. This game has really shown me just how worn out my 5200 controller really was when other games didn't make it so obvious.

 

Then a thought occurred to me. Most of the 5200 games rely on left and right movement more than up and down movement. In an analog sense. Very few games use all directions in an analog way. So...I got brave and studied the horizontal POT from the inside out. The path that three "fingers" travel on the POT have literally dug up trails over the years of repeated use, to the point that analog controls are sloppy at best. I tried cleaning it up but there were no changes. So I put it back together.

 

Before placing it back inside the controller I had a hunch and removed the vertical POT as well. Without putting it inside the controller I connected the wires for detecting horizontal movement to the POT that was originally for vertical movement. I put a game in, turned on the console, and started a game. Using my thumb while holding the POT I tried to control the game character. The movement was smooth and accurate. I then connected the original horizontal POT to the vertical side and tried Pac-Man. Even if it was too worn out to work in analog mode for horizontal movement it worked rather well for games requiring four-direction controls where analog detection really was not necessary. So I switched the POTs and gave the controller some what more life before needing new parts.

 

With that in mind, and I hope that others find this information useful, should horizontal movement become frustratingly erratic or no where near what it use to be, try switching the POTs around inside the controller. So far it has worked for me. Be sure to glue the POTs back down and be careful when removing the POTs if they have never been removed before as the old glue can still be strong.

[Charlie_]

If others have already thought about this, or if it has already been mentioned before, then forgive me for repeating it. I just thought about it while trying out the Tempest game I got the other day. The game uses sensitive left and right movement. Barely move the joystick in any left of right direction the slower the ZAPPER moves. Full force movement causes the ZAPPER to travel around the levels at an amazing rate of speed. This game has really shown me just how worn out my 5200 controller really was when other games didn't make it so obvious.

 

Then a thought occurred to me. Most of the 5200 games rely on left and right movement more than up and down movement. In an analog sense. Very few games use all directions in an analog way. So...I got brave and studied the horizontal POT from the inside out. The path that three "fingers" travel on the POT have literally dug up trails over the years of repeated use, to the point that analog controls are sloppy at best. I tried cleaning it up but there were no changes. So I put it back together.

 

Before placing it back inside the controller I had a hunch and removed the vertical POT as well. Without putting it inside the controller I connected the wires for detecting horizontal movement to the POT that was originally for vertical movement. I put a game in, turned on the console, and started a game. Using my thumb while holding the POT I tried to control the game character. The movement was smooth and accurate. I then connected the original horizontal POT to the vertical side and tried Pac-Man. Even if it was too worn out to work in analog mode for horizontal movement it worked rather well for games requiring four-direction controls where analog detection really was not necessary. So I switched the POTs and gave the controller some what more life before needing new parts.

 

With that in mind, and I hope that others find this information useful, should horizontal movement become frustratingly erratic or no where near what it use to be, try switching the POTs around inside the controller. So far it has worked for me. Be sure to glue the POTs back down and be careful when removing the POTs if they have never been removed before as the old glue can still be strong.

 

Do your pots have a red plastic insert that go around the bottom of the pot? Those are the sealed all metal type that say "JAPAN" on them.

I always find them to be the best. There are two other types of pots I've seen used, that have a more open design and are larger in size.

They do not need the plastic insert. They are good too, when they work, but I've seen them fail (in other words less than perfect) more often.

The ones I mentioned 1st are mostly found in early model sticks, made in USA with the low rubber boot around the joystick.

[kamakazi]

I have both types. My original controller has the larger POTs. The newer one has the red insert. Those are sealed and difficult to try to clean when necessary. Odd...my original model, with the Made In USA label, has the raised boot. The only change I have made to it is the white flex-circuit I found in another controller I obtained from a yard sale years ago.

[Charlie_]

I have both types. My original controller has the larger POTs. The newer one has the red insert. Those are sealed and difficult to try to clean when necessary. Odd...my original model, with the Made In USA label, has the raised boot. The only change I have made to it is the white flex-circuit I found in another controller I obtained from a yard sale years ago.

I'm sure they made all the different revisions in the various assembly plants. I've seen Taiwan, Mexico, USA, and unmarked.

Maybe I am remembering backwards and the high boots were original and the lower ones were later. I don't rebuild them much anymore honestly.

I was deep into it about 8-10 years ago.

[bohoki]

i guess you could change the x pot for the y pot you are right about games using the lefty righty more than the uppy downy

[7800]

I still think someone should invent a controller using 2 dual axis analog thumb sticks like the ones on Playstation controllers. How awesome would it be to play Robotron and Space Dungeon with something like that?

[bradd1978]

http://youtu.be/s8RZWtDAa9w

 

This is part one of a 3 part video showing a PS1 controller being modded for use on the 5200 specifically for Robotron and Space Dungeon. It's a bit complex but works great. I'm gonna be doing this mod very soon :-)

[7800]

Complex? ... your right about that.

 

Instead of a controller hack, I would totally contribute to a kickstart of a completely new controller that had the keypad, Pause, Start, Reset, 2 analog thumb sticks, top and front fire buttons, and one wire with two plugs, one for port 1 and one for port 2.

 

It should also have a retro styling that goes with the 5200, black with red buttons and aluminum Atari name plate.

 

Here's an idea...

 

[Charlie_]

Cool idea. Don't forget though, the whole reason the master play interface like adapter (drawing a blank on the name) stopped being made was from not being able to get good fitting 15 pin connectors for the cables. Kinda hard to do a whole controller when we can't even get plugs for the end of the wires.

[7800]

Thanks I figured the plugs for the wires could also be done from scratch. With the latest craze in 3D printing and whatnot...

[Lynxpro]

The cable plugs used on Grips' NeoGeo arcade stick conversion work very well with the 5200 pins. There's gotta be some manufacturer that could produce decent ones.

 

And the perfect 5200 controller would be the Jaguar Pro Controller that resembled the 5200 slightly more and used an Xbox or Playstation analog thumbstick in the place of the DPad.

[7800]

I'm sure overseas there are plenty of manufacturers of these types of plugs and wires... my guess would be in Hong Kong.

[bohoki]

ive had problems with the black molded 15 pin plugs the ones we like are always made with little posts on the back not solder cups so the people making harnesses just crimp a fitting on the end that presses onto the post and ive had them create intermittant failures

 

but it does seem likeone could get some from china but you would have to order like 1000 to get them to tool up

 

there were a bunch of uses for the compatable plugs early gameport joystick y adapters and such

 

but those dont have the little locking nubs

[7800]

The stock 5200 controllers and Trak Ball harness are terrible quality. I'll bet most of the problems people have with those controllers are due to bad traces. Speaking of this... the only way to replace a Trak Ball harness is to buy another Trak Ball. Eventually they will be extremely hard to find. Sorry I went off track a little. LOL!

[Lynxpro]

The stock 5200 controllers and Trak Ball harness are terrible quality. I'll bet most of the problems people have with those controllers are due to bad traces. Speaking of this... the only way to replace a Trak Ball harness is to buy another Trak Ball. Eventually they will be extremely hard to find. Sorry I went off track a little. LOL!

If you go to the Sunnyvale Atari Party this year, don't say that to Dan "The TrakBall Man" Kramer!

[7800]

If you go to the Sunnyvale Atari Party this year, don't say that to Dan "The TrakBall Man" Kramer!

LOL! ok... I wont.

[TheRealAnubis]

Great idea! I just did this with mine, after spraying both pots liberally with contact cleaner / lube. I use ECG industries RX500-12 - it seems to work really well!

 

For some reason I didn't get the pots connected back correctly the first time, so a good thing to do is take a nice close-up picture before you remove them.