ndary Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 I Have a 1050 drive that powers on but the drive does not spin... i replaced all the roms from a working drive, i also change the moving mechanic from a working drive.. still only the front LED light] what are the common things i need to check, what are the most common parts that fail? any tip will be appreciated. Nir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 Voltage from the regulators? There are test points on the board IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roydea6 Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 Possibly check for missing belt.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 (edited) definitely sounds like a board issue. as well as the voltage, check the caps and maybe - if you have time, swap out each IC/Rom one-by-one using the ICs/Roms from the good drive also, try using the PSU adapter from the good drive Edited April 29, 2016 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndary Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 I did try to replace al IC's from a working drive with no luck, i also used the Power Supply from the working drive. instead of replacing the best i use the whole mechanic from a working drive and still the drive will not spin i will take a look at the service manual for item i can test without the need for a scope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) I would definitely test the voltages on the board in the drive. Obvious failures after the roms are the regs, caps, and diodes in the on board power conversion stuff. Edited April 30, 2016 by spookt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 I had the same issue with a drive yesterday.... Check for +12v dc between TP15 & TP14. I had nothing (0v) and a lot of heat from the metal heat sink around Q8.... So after removing the regulator Q8 I still had a dead short across TP14 / 15. Eventually traced to C70 gone bad. Changed the cap and back in business! While trying to find the short I ended up lifting several component legs until the short disappeared. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikerbob Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 (edited) I just thought I would put this question in this thread because its appropriate ... but the 1050 field service manual that I can find ANYWHERE on the net is missing Section 2 and 3.. 40pgs jumps right from Section 1 to 4... Is this what other are finding??? this is what I found on Atarimania.. which usually has complete texts... This is what Best Electronics shows.. So where are the other 27 pages on every other copy on the net??? Atari 1050 Field Service Manual. Covers both the Tandon and World Storage versions of the Atari 1050. 67 pages FD100330 $25.00 Edited August 7, 2016 by Bikerbob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Remember that it is imperative that Q6 is electrically isolated from the aluminum heat sink that it is attached to by a thin plastic strip behind the TIP 110 (Q6) and a plastic sleeve around the screw. If the TIP 110 shorts to ground your 7812 (Q8) is going to get VERY HOT very fast. Someone earlier said that he lifts cap legs to try and remove shorts. Before you start doing this, look to see if any of your electrolytic caps are swollen on the tops or sides and also look for any that appear to be leaking fluids. If you have a good volt meter you can set it to the lowest setting and start checking the positive side of the electrolytic caps to ground. On the schematics follow the circuit where the short appears to other components and see if the readings on you meter go up or down. This will give you an idea of the correct direction to go to find the short. The lower the reading ( and we may be talking about milliohms difference) the closer you are to the actual short. If one of the three big caps is bad, I would recommend you replace all three to be safe. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 (edited) I just thought I would put this question in this thread because its appropriate ... but the 1050 field service manual that I can find ANYWHERE on the net is missing Section 2 and 3.. 40pgs jumps right from Section 1 to 4... Is this what other are finding??? this is what I found on Atarimania.. which usually has complete texts... This is what Best Electronics shows.. So where are the other 27 pages on every other copy on the net??? Atari 1050 Field Service Manual. Covers both the Tandon and World Storage versions of the Atari 1050. 67 pages FD100330 $25.00 i don't know about the 67 pages? I have three different scanned copies of the FSM and they're ALL 40 pages in length Hopefully the attached will help to fill in some of the gaps Atari_1050_Disk_Drive_Sams_Computerfacts_Technical_Service.pdf curiously, this one states over 100 pages !!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Field-Service-Manual-for-Atari-1050-Disk-Drive-New-/130891454356 Edited August 7, 2016 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Binarygeek Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 I Have a 1050 drive that powers on but the drive does not spin... i replaced all the roms from a working drive, i also change the moving mechanic from a working drive.. still only the front LED light] what are the common things i need to check, what are the most common parts that fail? any tip will be appreciated. Nir Look, I know this suggestion is pretty basic and simple, but I have scored a couple of very cheap 1050 drives that had ROM's installed instead of EPROM's (or the other way around). Make sure the OS ROM (U10) is set according to jumpers 1-4. JP1 and JP3 are set for a ROM, and JP2 and JP4 for an EPROM. If the jumpers and/or the chips are incorrect, you will get the lower LED on and the drive will not spin. With the drives I bought, folks apparently tried to fix them by replacing the chips, and I found EPROM instead of ROM's, and vice-versa. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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