SignGuy81 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 I may try that. I originally chucked it in the trash because I was so frustrated with myself, If you decide to do that again I would gladly pay shipping for you to send to me instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 (edited) System power for both logic and video sides of the system is handled by the little IC near the power switch. It can cause "no power on" and "no power off" conditions. Replacement is under a dollar. Another one that can bite you is the one inside the switchbox of 4-port models. Edited April 15, 2018 by zylon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deepthaw Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 System power for both logic and video sides of the system is handled by the little IC near the power switch. It can cause "no power on" and "no power off" conditions. Replacement is under a dollar. Another one that can bite you is the one inside the switchbox of 4-port models. Is that ic likely something incompetent soldering for the power mod would damage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deepthaw Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 If you decide to do that again., Only been here like two weeks and I have a reputation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 (edited) Is that ic likely something incompetent soldering for the power mod would damage? Very much so. It is a "flip/flop" IC and prone to failure in consoles that get worked on. it's location is near one of the alignment pins in the casing. Repeated removal and installation of the board leads to failures in the solder joints of the socket itself. 2-ports have this component fail more often in normal use than 4-port systems, not sure why. At least 4-port systems it is usually socketed. Edited April 15, 2018 by zylon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignGuy81 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 , Only been here like two weeks and I have a reputation. I meant if you decide to throw in the trash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deepthaw Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 Very much so. It is a "flip/flop" IC and prone to failure in consoles that get worked on. it's location is near one of the alignment pins in the casing. Repeated removal and installation of the board leads to failures in the solder joints of the socket itself. 2-ports have this component fail more often in normal use than 4-port systems, not sure why. At least 4-port systems it is usually socketed. I'll add that to my shopping list. By the time I'm done this "free" 5200 will have nickel and dime me to death. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deepthaw Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 I meant if you decide to throw in the trash That's what I meant - "next time you throw a tantrum just give it to me instead." I've only thrown two game systems in the trash out of sheer frustration with myself breaking them trying to mod them... So far. I'm extremely easygoing with other people but hate myself when I mess things up. Not a good thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 (edited) I'll add that to my shopping list. By the time I'm done this "free" 5200 will have nickel and dime me to death. Lol, that's what Chevy's used to do to me. Anyways, that locating pin is a tight fit and often, some force is needed to pry the board up and out of the case. This force is what causes the failure sometimes. I like to thin the pin out a bit with sandpaper the first time I remove a board. That way it never gets stuck or stressed again. Edited April 15, 2018 by zylon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjh76 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Are you saying that you had it working with the mod but then de-soldered the new jack, screwed it into the case, then re-soldered it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignGuy81 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 but hate myself when I mess things up. Not a good thing. Have to start somewhere no need to get frustrated. A system that came free is a good place to start. It would probably help to post pics of your work and me or others could give you tips on what could be done better as far as soldering/desoldering and where to start in getting the problem fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deepthaw Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 Are you saying that you had it working with the mod but then de-soldered the new jack, screwed it into the case, then re-soldered it? Yes. But I decided to redo the wiring because it looked awful (especially the diode) and figured I already had it open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Probably just a missed joint or lifted trace near the rework. When I get shit like that, I"ll put it down till another day and approach it fresh. Frustration'll mess with you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SINGLE TOOTH Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 I'll add that to my shopping list. By the time I'm done this "free" 5200 will have nickel and dime me to death. Should have seen the C64 I just fixed. It was enraging me. I desoldered tons of the ICs and bought replacement chips before I finally found the right one. This $3.99 goodwill C64 wound up costing me quite a bit after I fixed it. But then when I was about to throw in the towel after messing up some traces I looked on ebay and saw how high the c64s are going for and went back to it and finally fixed it. Another thing to consider is that 5200s aren't cheap to ship. Lucky you got a free one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SINGLE TOOTH Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 . Another one that can bite you is the one inside the switchbox of 4-port models. I actually had one IC literally explode in the RF box in the mid 90s. Too bad I didn't know how to fix anything back then. I think I gave it to my dad's friend and he fixed the switchbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 (edited) Should have seen the C64 I just fixed. It was enraging me. I desoldered tons of the ICs and bought replacement chips before I finally found the right one. This $3.99 goodwill C64 wound up costing me quite a bit after I fixed it. But then when I was about to throw in the towel after messing up some traces I looked on ebay and saw how high the c64s are going for and went back to it and finally fixed it. Another thing to consider is that 5200s aren't cheap to ship. Lucky you got a free one. Yuck, I hate fixing C64s. One good thing about Atari's buy all the chips companies could make strategy, is lots of parts available today. I still adore my 64, but not fixing them anymore. My switchbox has a sticking solenoid. it powers on fine, but only unplugging it makes it switch back. System turns off, but rf mode in box never returns until power off. it's easy to unplug it after play and a good idea, so I leave it alone. Edited April 15, 2018 by zylon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 (edited) Yes. But I decided to redo the wiring because it looked awful (especially the diode) and figured I already had it open. Make sure you diode is facing the correct way. Again look to the pics in the power mod thread on this. If you have it installed backwards, it will do its job and prevent the power from getting where it is needed. I've hosed up a few boards in my time trying to fix them, or "fix" them when I thought something didn't look right. I've never thrown one out because I figure if nothing else, that board still has good parts on it that I might need and can use later down the line when working on other stuff. This is what I've done with my first 5200 that worked wonderfully for about 10 years and then just up and died one day. Never did quite figure out what was wrong with it but I still have the board. Over its "dead" life it has been used to salvage parts from and bring a 7800 and colecovision back to life and other parts from it have been using in building mod boards for other systems. Donor boards are always a good thing to have on hand, and if nothing else they are excellent for practicing your soldering on as well. Edited April 15, 2018 by -^Cro§Bow^- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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