erichenneke Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) Anybody ever changed a power switch on a Commodore 1702 monitor? I just got one and I was excited to hook it up to all my Atari toys, and low and behold, the power switch doesn't seem to work. I think it got "mashed in" during shipping. There were pictures sent to me of the unit working fine and powering on before it was shipped. Now the button is just kind of mushy (doesn't really feel like it clicks in or engages) and the LED and power never comes on. When I plug the cord into the wall I do hear that static/electrical sound like something inside the unit is alive and getting ready to go (like all CRT's do), but pushing power button doesn't do anything. Anybody ever change a switch in one of these, or a similar vintage monitor? Seller is willing to refund and ship it back at their expense, but it looks like a really good unit otherwise. So I am trying to decide what to do. -Eric Edited November 1, 2018 by erichenneke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoestring Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Never replaced one on a 1702 Not my auction. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/COMMODORE-CRT-MONITOR-1084S-1940-1941-1942-OTHERS-REPLACEMENT-POWER-SWITCH/253718802415?hash=item3b12d1afef:g:Sj0AAOSwCcZaS8CA:rk:1:pf:0 Don't they all use the same switch ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 have him ship the good one in his photo's? that would be my answer... is there damage to the case around the power switch? does the switch click? he didn't pack it properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoestring Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 The switch is prone to failure, so it's not a matter of if it fails but when. Use a small piece of cardboard to hold it in for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erichenneke Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 The switch is prone to failure, so it's not a matter of if it fails but when. Use a small piece of cardboard to hold it in for now. Well, the problem is that i can't get it to actually power on at all. Even if I hold it in. It never seems to actually engage or turn on at all. The LED never lights up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoestring Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Sorry to hear. Which is why I hate shipping or having vintage monitors shipped. It's possible the transit as put stress some on the solder joints, especially around the fly back. If you decide to open the back of the monitor, discharge the tube first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathy Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Hello guys These switches are used in a LOT of monitors. I used a (cut off) drinking straw to fix the switch in the ON position for years, but had the switched replaced earlier this year. But that might not be what's causing Eric's 1702 to not power up. Sincerely Mathy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 When I plug the cord into the wall I do hear that static/electrical sound like something inside the unit is alive and getting ready to go (like all CRT's do), but pushing power button doesn't do anything. There should be NONE of this static/electrical/degaussing sounds happening if the unit is really OFF. This implies that there is power going to something in there, and maybe the issue is not actually the switch. While it's unplugged you can put a multimeter on the 2 solder points for the switch and see if you get on/off conductivity. If this confirms the switch is dead, you could put a temporary jumper wire between the two points so it's always on for now. (of good enough gauge wire) I have 1 1702 that had intermittent power. After 2 hours of conductivity of tracing inside, I found that it was just a flakey power cable, worked when pulled 1 way, not the other. <facepalm> I replaced the power cord. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erichenneke Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 Hello guys These switches are used in a LOT of monitors. I used a (cut off) drinking straw to fix the switch in the ON position for years, but had the switched replaced earlier this year. But that might not be what's causing Eric's 1702 to not power up. Sincerely Mathy Yeah, believe me, I didn't want to ship one of these either. But I had been looking for quite some time and was finding nothing locally, so I took a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erichenneke Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 While it's unplugged you can put a multimeter on the 2 solder points for the switch and see if you get on/off conductivity. If this confirms the switch is dead, you could put a temporary jumper wire between the two points so it's always on for now. (of good enough gauge wire) Thanks, that's funny because I was looking at the board traces last night and thinking the same thing. Those two bottom side solder points that say "BLK" next to them should be simple to just jumper and mimic the switch in on position. Good idea to just check continuity with multimeter first to either see if that would indeed do the trick ... or rule it out as the culprit. I hope that is it because it gets more involved if it is not the switch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erichenneke Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 Hey, on a related question... will this JVC-built 1702 version handle PAL as well as NTSC? Mine is the JVC-built version for North America 120V AC and 60Hz. Here is a picture of the label on the back... I am NOT assuming that it will handle PAL. BUT, if it would that would be an amazing bonus so I could use my PAL 800XL on it as well as all of my usual NTSC Atari hardware. Obviously, I can't check that myself (yet) because the darn thing isn't powering on. -Eric 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlsson Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Generally speaking, I can't remember any Commodore branded monitor that handles both PAL and NTSC composite video though I may have missed some model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 FWIW, my 1084S will synch to a PAL signal, but unless using RGB, it does not produce colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erichenneke Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Well, I tested continuity across the switch leads at the bottom side solder points and unfortunately... it is a closed circuit. So even though the switch does seem to be broken, it seems to be stuck in the ON position. Which unfortunately means there is something else causing this monitor not to fire up when plugged in. Bummer. So, what now? Any suggestions? Summarizing... the switch is stuck to the "always on" position, but when it is plugged in the LED does NOT come on, and there is no sign of anything on the monitor itself. Anything obvious I should check next, or should I just send it back to the seller ? -Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 (edited) why would you keep it? make sure to use the notes and use ebay/paypal mailing system for everything. I would not volunteer any attempts you have made to do anything. They may try to place blame on you... if the seller is dishonest you can still get pay pal or ebay to cover it. Edited November 2, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam242 Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 My 1702 handles the output from my NTSC 800 with a PAL ANTIC with no problem. Had to adjust the vertical hold and vertical size pots a little. FWIW. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoestring Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Was working before it was moved when the previous owner tested so something shifted inside during transit. Is there any neck glow when plugged in? No power light or neck glow could indicate an issue with the flyback. When those usually fail it's spectacular and you'll hear a horrible whiny sound everytime the monitor is powered up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Brightness knob isn't turned all the way to dark? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 (edited) OMG, it does not work.. just return it. If something 'shifted' inside during shipping then it was not proper in the first place. Nothing should be 'shifting'... gah. what was the ebay auction number or link... Edited November 2, 2018 by _The Doctor__ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 (edited) defective post... Edited November 2, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erichenneke Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Yeah, now that I know it's not just a bad switch I am sending it back. If it was just a switch, I'd fix it, but beyond that there's no good reason to pursue it. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoestring Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 CRT monitors are fairly fragile to ship. When I said something may have moved inside, what I meant was the larger components soldered to the chassis, they don’t have much support if the unit gets thrown around during shipping . Solder that was used to assemble Commodore “branded” monitors was not the best quality and often need reflowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoestring Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Hey, on a related question... will this JVC-built 1702 version handle PAL as well as NTSC? Mine is the JVC-built version for North America 120V AC and 60Hz. Here is a picture of the label on the back... DSC_0096.JPG I am NOT assuming that it will handle PAL. BUT, if it would that would be an amazing bonus so I could use my PAL 800XL on it as well as all of my usual NTSC Atari hardware. Obviously, I can't check that myself (yet) because the darn thing isn't powering on. -Eric Love the marshall amp in the background 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariLeaf Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 (edited) The switch is prone to failure, so it's not a matter of if it fails but when. Use a small piece of cardboard to hold it in for now. I own two now and have had several in the past and this is the first I've heard of the power switch ever being an issue. I use mine regularly and still going strong. I'm not saying you're wrong, I've just never run into the issue nor heard it from anyone else. Your post is literally the first time in 25 years of collecting that I've heard of this. Edited November 2, 2018 by AtariLeaf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoestring Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Generally speaking, I can't remember any Commodore branded monitor that handles both PAL and NTSC composite video though I may have missed some model. Have heard and read a lot about them but i've never seen one, probably a myth. Someone please prove me wrong because I'd like one... I own two now and have had several in the past and this is the first I've heard of the power switch ever being an issue I have one and it's gone. You're one of the lucky ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.