+karri Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 I still have a bunch of these carts. The rom is compatible with the newer design. PM me your details and I can send you a few. But I charge around €3 for the flash chip. And the postage. The capacitor should be 100 times smaller. 1nF is appropriate. And the resistor could be like in standard paddles 10K linear. You could get a standard Atari 2600 paddle for testing. The problem here is charging and discharging the capacitor. It might be easier to use some address lines for charging and decharging the cap. And keep AUDIN as input to trigger at times related to the setting of the paddle. There may also be some joysticks chips that support 1 wire protocols. Similar to connecting the eeprom. Then you could use an address line as a clock and receive x/y and button presses as serial messages over AUDIN. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brek Martin Posted July 18 Share Posted July 18 (edited) 6 hours ago, karri said: I still have a bunch of these carts. The rom is compatible with the newer design. PM me your details and I can send you a few. But I charge around €3 for the flash chip. And the postage. The capacitor should be 100 times smaller. 1nF is appropriate. And the resistor could be like in standard paddles 10K linear. You could get a standard Atari 2600 paddle for testing. The problem here is charging and discharging the capacitor. It might be easier to use some address lines for charging and decharging the cap. And keep AUDIN as input to trigger at times related to the setting of the paddle. There may also be some joysticks chips that support 1 wire protocols. Similar to connecting the eeprom. Then you could use an address line as a clock and receive x/y and button presses as serial messages over AUDIN. Yep, understood. The diagram is just snapped from a manual with an example, and yes I did think you might as well use another pin to charge it. Simply toggling the clock might do it, but again, we don't usually want capacitance on signal lines. This particular implementation was likely designed for accuracy rather than speed. Regarding the cards, I'll get back to you on it, but yes I do plan to buy a couple then. I have spent most of this fortnight's hobby budget with K-Retro, so I won't act on it very soon though. I eBayed a couple of UBlox (8E1 capable) GPS receivers and FTDI boards too, and plan to grab a shovel and dig up that old thread Edited July 18 by Brek Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brek Martin Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Mainly for Karri to see it I did buy a couple of PCB carts, but now I know a good way to make a rigid prototype board I will just leave what is on them, and keep those as a keepsake. They are interesting with the larger chips. For mine, there are still some steps to take with clear lacquer, and this is not the final GPS module, nor the final antenna, but I do have the goal of fitting the card in a Lynx 1. Now, this project is little more than sensational, so I might as well go and cause sensation on Facebook... I think a potentiometer controller might be something though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brek Martin Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 They are a pretty thing. I didn't realise what signals were exposed. AUDIN is right there! Quite useful. You could also find a way to stick some indicator LEDs with some current limiting resistors on it, and still fit it in the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+karri Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 The edge signals were designed for easy connection for all kind of serial stuff. I have connected a LED strip with 3 RGB lights for ambient lighting. Blinking blue and white when you drive a police car. It can also be used as a traffic light like RED YELLOW GREEN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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