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600XL S-Video Mod that looks almost factory


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I have a 600XL that's been in pieces for a while as I was using it's chips for the 600XLM board.  When I bought this machine, it was without any cables and I thought it was DOA as it came up with a black screen.  While I did some troubleshooting on it, I didn't spend much time on it.  Last week, I was reading some troubleshooting instructions and decided to try it again.  After some messing around with it I found out the only problem was the RF channel switch was bad and I was able to get up a pretty poor looking display on an old TV.  So, I decided to upgrade it to S-Video only and use it for some future projects.  I figured I'd use the "Jeff Popp" mod as it is mostly made by re-installing omitted components and is not only the cheapest way to go but the most OEM-looking way to go.  However, I don't want composite video as that doesn't look as good as S-Video and tends to interfere with the S-Video.  So, I "modified" the Jeff Popp mod and, with the exception of very slight "jail bars" it's working great!  Since this may help someone else, I figured I'll post the instructions here.

 

 

600 XL S-Video Mod. (Based on the Jeff Popp Mod.)

 

    Note: Composite Video is removed in this mod.

 

Parts List:

 

    Transistors:

 

    Q7 – 2N3904

    Q8 – 2N3904

    Q9 – 2N3904

 

Resistors, ¼ Watt:

 

    R124 – 75

    R128 – 6.2k

    R129 – 1k

    R130 – 2.2k

    R131 – 1k

    R132 – 1k

    R133 – 3.3k

    R134 – 10k

    R135 – 240

    R139 – 4.7k

    R136 – 100

    Install at location C112 – 75

 

Monitor Jack

 

    J7 – 5 pin DIN (Make sure legs match)

 

Instructions:

 

    1. Remove the following:  Channel select switch, C109, R125, R126, R140, & L13

    2. Break circuit board trace at J7 between pins 2 and 5 on underside of board.

    3. Install all parts in parts list. (Note: holes will probably already be filled with solder.)

    4. Install jumper from J7 (pin 1) to L12 pin hole closest to R124.

    5. Install jumper from J7 (pin 5) to R137 pin hole closest to R125 location.

 

 

Picture:

  (The picture came out a little blurry and doesn't show the slight "jailbars".  It looks better in person.)

1093546919_600xlpicture.thumb.JPG.dfe22b350ccfc57008984d079cd9ef8c.JPG

 

 

Component side of system board:

600xl_components.thumb.JPG.be9e9e43f6d40c18cd884d3698f1915e.JPG

 

Jumpers on underside of system board:

600xl_jumpers.thumb.JPG.72eea66bff665394abd31dac6fdce7f3.JPG

 

 

Atari schematic with changes noted:

 

600xl_svideo_schematic.JPG.76f810bab98ca107ba6fe5893f79d174.JPG

 

 

 

Component locations:

 

component_locations.thumb.JPG.3d0ee75665c49583f1f680f2dade306f.JPG

 

Post I followed to do this mod:  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by reifsnyderb
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  • 2 weeks later...

It always helps to test my instructions.  I found out I missed C111 (3.9pF).  So, here's the new instructions.

 

 

 

600 XL S-Video Upgrade

 

Note: You are responsible for your own equipment and work. If you are not comfortable with the modifications to do this upgrade, enlist the help of someone who is experienced with making this sort of modification.

 

Parts List:

 

Capacitor:

C111 – 3.9pF

 

Transistors:

Q7 – 2N3904

Q8 – 2N3904

Q9 – 2N3904

 

Resistors, ¼ Watt:

R124 – 75

R128 – 6.2k

R129 – 1k

R130 – 2.2k

R131 – 1k

R132 – 1k

R133 – 3.3k

R134 – 10k

R135 – 240

R136 – 100

R139 – 4.7k

Install at location C112 – 75 ohm resistor

 

Monitor Jack

J7 – 5 pin DIN

 

Instructions:

 

1. Prior to making this modification, make sure the computer works.

2. Disassemble the Atari 600XL.

3. Remove the following: Channel select switch, C109, R125, R126, R140, & L13

4. Cut circuit board trace at J7 between pins 2 and 5 on underside of board.

5. Install all parts in parts list. (Note: holes may be filled with solder.)

6. Install jumper from J7 (pin 1) to L12 pin hole closest to R124.

7. Install jumper from J7 (pin 5) to R137 pin hole closest to R125 location.

8. Cut the hole in the case for the monitor port. The monitor port hole center is 1 3/16” (30.25mm) from the center of the power jack hole. The diameter of the hole is 11/16” or 18mm.

 

 

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  • 10 months later...

Do you have the mfg part# of the Din5 you used for this?  It looks like it matches both the wiring, and the mount solder points.  I've only found ones that match the wiring points, not the two mount points.  I used hot glue to reinforce the port, but I'd rather have the solder mounts.

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On 5/18/2022 at 3:40 PM, reifsnyderb said:

So, I "modified" the Jeff Popp mod and, with the exception of very slight "jail bars" it's working great!

As mentioned in various threads over the last several years, any jail bars are probably due to the lack of proper shielding in the cable being used.

 

Discussion regarding the problem and solution basically began in this thread: Quick Review of Lotharek HQ Video Cable

 

 

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6 hours ago, wildstar87 said:

Do you have the mfg part# of the Din5 you used for this?  It looks like it matches both the wiring, and the mount solder points.  I've only found ones that match the wiring points, not the two mount points.  I used hot glue to reinforce the port, but I'd rather have the solder mounts.

I don't, sorry.  It's been a while but I don't think I was able to find the exact match in the either DigiKey or Mouser.  In the end I had to buy them from China, unfortunately.  I do have a bunch of them, though.  If you'd like one, please PM me.

 

Best Regards,

 

Brian

 

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9 hours ago, reifsnyderb said:

I don't, sorry.  It's been a while but I don't think I was able to find the exact match in the either DigiKey or Mouser.  In the end I had to buy them from China, unfortunately.  I do have a bunch of them, though.  If you'd like one, please PM me.

 

Best Regards,

 

Brian

 

These should do:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254570069082

 

Picture 3 of 12

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