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Good adhesive/glue for 5200?


Flyindrew

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Ok..here is the story. I have a great working 5200 2 port I am strongly considering selling. Anyways, a week ago I picked it up off a shelf and…crash!! I accidentally dropped it on a hard floor. It still works great, but the front grill (on top of control ports are), broke off. I have model glue at home, but I was wondering if this would be a good adhesive to use to glue the grill on?

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6 minutes ago, Flyindrew said:

Thanks so much. I just wanted to be on the safe side and not mess up the console in the process.

I just used some of my JB weld clear epoxy on a 5200 storage controller lid that was cracked off at one corner. While I don't know exactly how sturdy it will be in the long run, it seemed to do the job.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/23/2023 at 3:26 PM, Flyindrew said:

Ok..here is the story. I have a great working 5200 2 port I am strongly considering selling. Anyways, a week ago I picked it up off a shelf and…crash!! I accidentally dropped it on a hard floor. It still works great, but the front grill (on top of control ports are), broke off. I have model glue at home, but I was wondering if this would be a good adhesive to use to glue the grill on?

 

You said it broke where the grill is, but I don't know if it was the grill or not.  But I have a very strong fix if it doesn't involve the grill. 

 

I collect radios, very old ones. Some are made of Bakelite or plastic.  When one of these materials cracks, I fix the crack superficially with superglue.  It will wick into the plastic and is OK on its own.  But what really is great for fixing these materials is to reinforce it on the inside.  I'll take a piece of aluminum or steel and patch it on the inside behind the crack so that the piece of steel is "covering" the entire crack.  I JB weld it right to the inside of the case.

 

Say there was a 3" long crack.  I would first glue the crack closed with superglue to align it and give it a good appearance on the outside. Then I would take a 2" wide piece of steel or aluminum that is 3.5" long.  Then cover the entire length of the crack (on the inside obviously) in J B weld out to an inch either side of the crack and then glue down the piece of steel.  In the end, it would like a patched inner tube on the inside. But from the outside, you wouldn't see any of it.

 

This won't work directly on a grill though, because you would see it through the holes. Anywhere else and it is the strongest part of the case..

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14 hours ago, christo930 said:

 

You said it broke where the grill is, but I don't know if it was the grill or not.  But I have a very strong fix if it doesn't involve the grill. 

 

I collect radios, very old ones. Some are made of Bakelite or plastic.  When one of these materials cracks, I fix the crack superficially with superglue.  It will wick into the plastic and is OK on its own.  But what really is great for fixing these materials is to reinforce it on the inside.  I'll take a piece of aluminum or steel and patch it on the inside behind the crack so that the piece of steel is "covering" the entire crack.  I JB weld it right to the inside of the case.

 

Say there was a 3" long crack.  I would first glue the crack closed with superglue to align it and give it a good appearance on the outside. Then I would take a 2" wide piece of steel or aluminum that is 3.5" long.  Then cover the entire length of the crack (on the inside obviously) in J B weld out to an inch either side of the crack and then glue down the piece of steel.  In the end, it would like a patched inner tube on the inside. But from the outside, you wouldn't see any of it.

 

This won't work directly on a grill though, because you would see it through the holes. Anywhere else and it is the strongest part of the case..

Very good idea on this! I've usually just rough up the area on the inside where the crack is and then apply clear epoxy over the entire area and a little beyond letting it seep in a little and call it good from there. But I'm guessing the OP means the top clear plastic that covers over the top front, power LED, and controller ports is the part that broke? In that case clear epoxy is about the only thing you can try as anything else will be even more visible.

 

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On 3/22/2023 at 10:53 AM, -^CrossBow^- said:

Very good idea on this! I've usually just rough up the area on the inside where the crack is and then apply clear epoxy over the entire area and a little beyond letting it seep in a little and call it good from there. But I'm guessing the OP means the top clear plastic that covers over the top front, power LED, and controller ports is the part that broke? In that case clear epoxy is about the only thing you can try as anything else will be even more visible.

 

Thanks so much. I actually used model glue and it worked like a dream. One would never know the difference.  Im just amazed it works at all after the fall. Moral of the story, be extra careful when handling any system.

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