Getting back into Atari - is this keyboard toast?

[phoney]

I've decided to get back into the 800 lifestyle after many years of ogling eBay and reading Jamie Lendino books.

 

I bought a "working" 800 on eBay, but not that I've gotten it, I see that if I take the keys off the keyboard, many of the little square plastic holders that the keys go into are cracked in the corner. Is this repairable - could the little plastic boxes be glued back together, for example? I don't know how well the machine works because I'm still waiting for a video cable in the mail. I looked at Best Electronics and their replacement keyboards cost more than what I paid for the whole machine!

 

I intend to do a 1MB upgrade and Fujinet - I spent a chunk of today setting up a TNFS server on a Raspberry Pi. Really looking forward to playing some games and doing some basic Web programming on this system!

[Beeblebrox]

Great to get back into the Atari 8 bit scene now. Lots going on. 

 

So I assume you mean incognito rater than u1mb given you have a 800? You can't install an U1MB unit in an 800. 

 

Or do you actually mean 800XL? Very different machines. 

 

You can fix stackpole/Hi-tek keyboards for re 800 yes. Wait until you get it as you might find it is working. 

 

Also the 800's came with 3 x types of keyboard. The Hi-tek and Stackpole, and a membrane version by Mitsumi.

 

Until you get the machine you won't know.

[phoney]

Sorry, I meant "now" that I've gotten it! I have the machine, it powers on and makes key sounds - I'm just waiting for a video cable so I can see what it's actually putting out.

 

The RAM card is this one: https://www.tindie.com/products/5cfab/1056k-memory-upgrade-board-for-the-atari-800/

 

I am not a solderer, but I'm fine with screws, clips, glue, Q-tips, Windex, rubbing alcohol, etc. How do I know what kind of keyboard the machine has?

[reifsnyderb]

39 minutes ago, phoney said:

Sorry, I meant "now" that I've gotten it! I have the machine, it powers on and makes key sounds - I'm just waiting for a video cable so I can see what it's actually putting out.

 

The RAM card is this one: https://www.tindie.com/products/5cfab/1056k-memory-upgrade-board-for-the-atari-800/

 

I am not a solderer, but I'm fine with screws, clips, glue, Q-tips, Windex, rubbing alcohol, etc. How do I know what kind of keyboard the machine has?

Hello,

 

I make and sell that upgrade.  It takes less than 5 minutes and, with the computer off, you just have to remove all of the memory cards.  Then you plug the jumper board in and the memory board in.  Done.  The boards have writing on them to indicate which direction they are installed.

 

Best Regards,

 

Brian

 

[_The Doctor__]

If you are taking the keys off the keyboard, you are probably making those cracks, there is zero reason to pull the key caps.

[phoney]

2 hours ago, _The Doctor__ said:

If you are taking the keys off the keyboard, you are probably making those cracks, there is zero reason to pull the key caps.

Oh? I read that with a dirty machine I was supposed to take the key caps off, wash them with soap and warm water, let them dry and use contact cleaner on the internal contacts. Is that wrong?

[+x=usr(1536)]

This deletion is why we read ahead before replying, folks 

[_The Doctor__]

depends on the keyboard, and how bad it is, I try not to and if I don't have to I won't. But if it must be done make sure the keyboard is very warm for a long time and then use a key puller (does not have to be store bought) with deft straight pulls to prevent the damage. If it happens, use the epoxy and O-ring fix. It will take care of the split ones. Or have resin printer replacement shaft/stalks made (layer direction and smoothness matters)

only pull and fix keys that won't come back to life with actuation therapy.

Edited September 10, 2023 by _The Doctor__

[reifsnyderb]

When plastic ages it becomes brittle.  So I like to avoid pulling any plastic that snaps into place if possible.  I had a really filthy keyboard that had a lot of hair and junk between the keys.  So, I used a pile of Q-tips and some alcohol to clean the keys.  They came out pretty nice.  To get under the keys, I had removed the keyboard first and used the Q-tips to reach under the keys from the sides.  It wasn't perfect but I didn't want to stress the keys and it was around 99.9% better when done.

 

Edit to add:  I just wet the Q-tips with the alcohol.  I didn't dump the alcohol on the keys or the keyboard.

Edited September 10, 2023 by reifsnyderb

[phoney]

3 hours ago, _The Doctor__ said:

depends on the keyboard, and how bad it is, I try not to and if I don't have to I won't. But if it must be done make sure the keyboard is very warm for a long time and then use a key puller (does not have to be store bought) with deft straight pulls to prevent the damage. If it happens, use the epoxy and O-ring fix. It will take care of the split ones. Or have resin printer replacement shaft/stalks made (layer direction and smoothness matters)

only pull and fix keys that won't come back to life with actuation therapy.

Thanks. What's the "epoxy and O-ring fix?" I didn't pull many keys off - so I hope I'll be okay.

[_The Doctor__]

on the forum there is a thread that outlines using a tiny minuscule amount of epoxy inside the shaft/stalk to shore up the crack and o-rings 1 or 2 on the shaft to hold the shaft tight and create a nice stop for the key so it wont travel and split the key shaft further. May even be sizes and where to get listed.