Atari 130XE suddenly went POOF in the middle of game.... capacitator gone? Other tips?

[xahmol]

I recently acquired an Atari 130XE which only today I good try for a good spin as my SUBcart arrived. So finally could run a few demos and could play a game of M.U.L.E.

Everything was working great, while suddenly in the middle of a game f M.U.L.E. the machine did POOF and after a short corruption the screen was gone. Did nothing at that time but playing.

 

Reset gave just a strange orange colour screen, and after power cycle no screen at all anymore, nor any sounds. Power LED still works, SUBcart also is powered I see from the LED from the DAC cable. But no screen.

Actually was capturing video when it did poof: see video:

Any ideas what it can be? Blown capacitor is my suspicion, also as I thing I smell something. But also very new yet to Atari 8 bits.

 

And next question of course: can such a thing be repaired easily?

And if yes, it can probably not be repaired by myself. Possibly any repair address suggestions for the Netherlands?

I am really disappointed, because the SUBcart finally enabled me to really use that Atari 130XE and everything seemed to work well.

Actually made this video earlier today:

 

This is the machine:

Edited July 3 by xahmol

[Peri Noid]

It's not a cap rather but if you can smell something... Very difficult to state what went wrong just by looking at the film. When you power it on now, do you get no signal or black screen signal? Did you try to turn it on with nothing (but video) connected?

Edited July 3 by Peri Noid

[Rybags]

You should pull the computer apart, it's pretty easy, to determine what's blown.  Just screws on the back and the shielding should be held in with tabs that you can bend straight.  Just be careful when removing and reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable.

Also you'd want to clean up any mess, in some cases residue can cause problems later on.

Possibly someone in your area could do the repair, otherwise an electronics repair shop.  Most components are clearly labelled so can be identified if damaged from schematics or photos.

 

[xahmol]

5 minutes ago, Peri Noid said:

It's not a cap rather but if you can smell something... Very difficult to state what went wrong just by looking at the film. When you power it on now, do you get no signal or black screen signal? Did you try to turn it on with nothing (but video) connected?

Have to further trouble shoot that.

As I wanted to capture now have a Retrotink 2X Pro, an Elgato CamLink 4K and OBS in between that can all interfere.

 

i think it is just no video signal, as on switching it on the Retrotink gives its rainbow default signal until time out. Would not do that if it gets the signal for a black screen.

Have to check though where to plug my Atari XE to S-Video cable in if not the Retrotink. Do not think I have any screen that takes mini S-Video plug as input. Maybe still have a SCART plug for it somewhere.

 

Probably will open it later and make some photos. No time for that before weekend though.

[leech]

46 minutes ago, xahmol said:

Have to further trouble shoot that.

As I wanted to capture now have a Retrotink 2X Pro, an Elgato CamLink 4K and OBS in between that can all interfere.

 

i think it is just no video signal, as on switching it on the Retrotink gives its rainbow default signal until time out. Would not do that if it gets the signal for a black screen.

Have to check though where to plug my Atari XE to S-Video cable in if not the Retrotink. Do not think I have any screen that takes mini S-Video plug as input. Maybe still have a SCART plug for it somewhere.

 

Probably will open it later and make some photos. No time for that before weekend though.

I'll usually do a 'sniff test' around the board to see if you can locate what went poof, though I don't think I've had such things happen on an Atari 8bit before.  But if something did release the magic smoke, it's quite possible that there could be a visible burn mark.

[TZJB]

With suitable tools, the 130XE is relatively easy to repair as all components are through-hole.

 

Can you please demonstrate what type of 5 Volt power supply you are using as I cannot see one in your picture of the 130XE.

 

As @Rybags said. A visual inspection of the motherboard will be required to determine anything obvious.

 

The most common fault would be a faulty RAM chip. In a 130XE there could be two banks of eight. Another memory configuration may only have four memory chips in total.

 

The 130XE Field Service manual is useful in this respect available here:-

 

 

 

If you are reluctant to attempt a repair yourself, drop Jurgen of @tf_hh, the home of Syscheck 2.2, an email.

 

His contact details are in his tinker project list: http://www.van-radecke.de/STUFF/tfhh_HW_info.pdf

 

Best of luck.

Edited July 3 by TZJB
Typo

[xahmol]

PSU is on this picture.

 

Also got that 1050 with it, but that one clearly needs also servicing. Does all the works, but both reading the one disk that came from it as formatting a blank one gives only errors.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

6 hours ago, TZJB said:

With suitable tools, the 130XE is relatively easy to repair as all components are through-hole.

 

Can you please demonstrate what type of 5 Volt power supply you are using as I cannot see one in your picture of the 130XE.

 

As @Rybags said. A visual inspection of the motherboard will be required to determine anything obvious.

 

The most common fault would be a faulty RAM chip. In a 130XE there could be two banks of eight. Another memory configuration may only have four memory chips in total.

 

The 130XE Field Service manual is useful in this respect available here:-

 

 

 

If you are reluctant to attempt a repair yourself, drop Jurgen of @tf_hh, the home of Syscheck 2.2, an email.

 

His contact details are in his tinker project list: http://www.van-radecke.de/STUFF/tfhh_HW_info.pdf

 

Best of luck.

My thought is with the PSU as well. 

[xahmol]

6 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

My thought is with the PSU as well. 

As in: PSU s the cause?

or as in: changing PSU will be enough to solve?

 

if it’s any worth: power LED of the Atari still burns if I switch it on. Just does not do anything else.

[_The Doctor__]

check voltages, clean and re-seat stuff

[TZJB]

20 hours ago, xahmol said:

PSU is on this picture.

 

Also got that 1050 with it, but that one clearly needs also servicing. Does all the works, but both reading the one disk that came from it as formatting a blank one gives only errors.

 

That is an interesting Atari 130XE PSU and has a European mains plug. What is the model number please?

 

Unlike the UK equivalents, which are potted in resin and originally came with no plug, your PSU is a likely source of magic smoke but can probably be repaired.

 

Does the PSU case smell burnt? Ensuring it is disconnected from any power source it may be worth opening it up and taking a look at the components. A blown capacitor may smell burnt and have visible signs of failure, but not always.

 

7 hours ago, xahmol said:

As in: PSU s the cause?

or as in: changing PSU will be enough to solve?

 

if it’s any worth: power LED of the Atari still burns if I switch it on. Just does not do anything else.

 

I am hoping that your PSU has not failed and producing a higher voltage output than it should, which you can only confirm by measurement with a voltmeter.

 

To directly answer your question, having a modern replacement Atari PSU would be useful but may not solve the issue if the original has failed with an over-voltage. It's too soon to tell without further investigation.

 

Unfortunately a higher voltage than about 6 Volts would keep the LEDs lit but cause chip failure in the 130XE.

 

Regarding the 1050 disk drive, it will require removal of the six retaining screws of the case in order to remove the top and front together, and to inspect the Read/Write head and general condition.

 

The head is probably dirty and needs a good clean with isopropanol and a clean cotton cloth. I suggest a cloth as you need to beware of Q tips that have been glued on as they can release their adhesive onto the head unless they are specifically designed for head cleaning.

 

Best of luck.

 

Edited July 4 by TZJB

[xahmol]

Made some photos of the PSU and the inside of my 130XE.

 

PSU:

 

Model and specs of PSU:

Inside of PSU. Can not see anything burned, nor smell anything (at least anymore)

 

I still want to check its voltage with a multimeter, but did not have a multimeter yet. Ordered one, so probably will try to measure tomorrow.
 

Inside of the case.

 

Inside close up side of power connector.

 

Inside close up side of SIO connector.

Edited July 5 by xahmol

[xahmol]

But how do you actually open up that case further? Got stuck on getting the keyboard off.

 

Watched the video below. But of I gently pull I can’t get the keyboard ribbon out of its connector.

So before pulling harder: is that indeed what I am supposed to do?

 

Obviously as long as I can not take the keyboard of, removing the shielding also does not work. But to check: you really have to twist those connectors to get the shielding of? That really is not a very convenient way of connecting it.

 

 

[Rybags]

You should be able to just pinch the cable either side and pull it out - finger and thumb with each hand, don't pull one side too much further than the other at a time.

From memory it's inserted about 6-8 mm into the connector.  It might be a little sticky after 35 years since insertion but about all you could do it spray a little contact cleaner in but that's probably not needed.

[TGB1718]

3 hours ago, xahmol said:

But to check: you really have to twist those connectors to get the shielding of? That really is not a very convenient way of connecting it.

Yes, small nose pliers and twist  , remember these machines were not really meant to be taken apart other than

for servicing if it broke, so wouldn't be expected to have to be removed very often (oh! and cheap 🙃 ) 

[Rybags]

It's cost saving over convenience.  Probably 50c worth of screws and nuts saved and a few minutes assembly time if that part was being done manually.

[xahmol]

Tested the PSU with a multimeter and the PSU now gives 12.98V! WTF!

 

So definitely failed PSU that is the case it seems.

So if I measure correctly (and I am an electronics n00b) can confirm that the CO61763-11 PSU is at least not always safe.

 

Bummer. Appears that PSU fried my Atari.

What is normally the damage in such a case? Is there something like a buffer chip or fuse that safes the rest?

 

Will make photos of the main board later.

 

 

[TGB1718]

Unfortunately if that voltage reading is correct, you've probably fried most of the chips, there is no fuse, no buffer chips,

the 5V supply is connected directly to all the chips on the board.

 

As you haven't noticed an smoke, maybe the PSU has not been able to supply enough current to blow everything, even so,

the voltage on it's own will still be enough to kill stuff

[xahmol]

Was already afraid of that. What a pity. And now blaming myself for not buying a new aftermarket PSU first, which I actually did for my Commodores.

 

Read about the bad ‘ingot’ PSU. But thought I was safe as I did not have that one.

 

Expensive lesson learned. So probably will be looking for another 130XE or 800XL with that aftermarket PSU then.

Because this Atari experience however brief tastes like more.

 

By the way: no way to test here without another Atari, but should I be afraid for that SUBcart that was attached during that failure as well?

 

 

[xahmol]

The promised photo of the motherboard.

[Rybags]

Are you sure that voltage reading is correct?

A multimeter with near flat battery can give bad readings.

 

If the voltage was that high it should have fried the LED as well.

Given that it's a transformer type PS, it should never drift that much out of spec anyway.

[xahmol]

1 minute ago, Rybags said:

Are you sure that voltage reading is correct?

A multimeter with near flat battery can give bad readings.

 

If the voltage was that high it should have fried the LED as well.

Given that it's a transformer type PS, it should never drift that much out of spec anyway.

No not sure, as this is, no laughing please, actual the first ever time I used a multimeter.

But the readings were very consistent 12.98V. And the multimeter and battery in it are brand new, received today.

[_The Doctor__]

Replace the PSU and the caps that are first in line from the power input. Then power up so you can start troubleshooting.

[TGB1718]

Have to agree with @Rybags I wouldn't expect the output from that transformer to be that high (but you never know for sure)

As you said you first time with a multimeter are you sure you have it set correctly, should be set to:-

 

DC Volts on the first range above 5V

 

Measure on the disconnected plug

1,4 or 6 to the positive lead (red)

3,5 or 7 to the negative lead (black)

 

If your not sure send a photo of the meter.

Edited July 5 by TGB1718

[xahmol]

1 hour ago, TGB1718 said:

Have to agree with @Rybags I wouldn't expect the output from that transformer to be that high (but you never know for sure)

As you said you first time with a multimeter are you sure you have it set correctly, should be set to:-

 

DC Volts on the first range above 5V

 

Measure on the disconnected plug

1,4 or 6 to the positive lead (red)

3,5 or 7 to the negative lead (black)

 

If your not sure send a photo of the meter.

Did exactly that. Multiple times. Consistent 12.98V

Found this picture here in the forum to find what to connect to with he multimeter.

 

And as indicated the PSU did work before, so apparently something broke under load to go that high suddenly.

 

 

 

Edited July 5 by xahmol