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n00b atari problems


kenny ice cold 3000

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im sure you get tons of newbies asking about their atari 2600 that they bought on ebay. im now another one. i also searched back through threads to solve my problem and will use some things said in them. anyways...

 

bought an atari 2600 on ebay. it kind of works. the problem is the image appears, but it is very much filled with static, and the static pretty much drowns out the sound of the games. i have it connected through one of those boxes that allows you to switch from tv to game. i am pretty sure the channels are the same on the atari and the tv. will an adapter that plugs the atari directly into the tv solve my static problem? should i clean my system? advice please.

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im not sure i know what you mean by adjusting the fine tuning on my tv. could you explain?

 

 

Had the same problem with my 7800, it was the RF tuning problem. Gaurenteed that someone here will help you, mine was an easy fix, and from what I heard, 2600s are alot eaiser. Just twisting a knob on the inside like you would to get better reception on a radio, but mine needed a common tool.

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Hmmm...could be if your tv is new enough, it won't let you do that. I'm 99% sure it's the tuning circuit inside the 2600.

 

Which 2600 model do you have? (Jr., sixer, 4-switcher, etc) they're all easy to adjust, but each is slightly different from the others.

 

-Chris

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You've probably already done this, but it never hurts to ask. Have you tried both settings of the channel switch on the Atari? They usually have 2 and 3. My TV/Atari works better on 2 than 3 but it just depends on where you live.

 

I know some people have reported getting a better picture hooking up their Atari through a VCR.

 

It's also possible you have a bum switchbox, in that case the adapter you speak of would help.

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You know, I have posted on this subject once before but I will say it yet again. A lot of people say that tuning the inside of the Atari console is the answer but it isn't. What NEEDS to be done is that if you are getting static is simply this, if you have an older 2 dial TV they have manual tuning rings on them, push in and turn the tuning ring until the static goes away, or if you have a newer TV with Automatic Fine Tuning, you'll want to leave the Atari console powered on, and then run the AUTOPROGRAM sequence setting that is an option within the TV's setup menu. Only use those controls, DO NOT adjust anything inside the Atari because those controls are already factory pre-set and if this is tampered with it could ruin the console and make it unusable if adjusted too far because the adjustment control inside that turns is made of graphite and is the same substance found in pencils which is also highly conductive and very fragile, All you need to do is on a 2 dial TV adjust the tuning rings, and on the newer ones, run the autoprogramming or auto setup sequence, and that ALONE will get a solid lock on the Atari 2600's signal, I got these tips directly from a Mr. Bradley Koda who just so happens to be the guy who runs Best Electronics, where I get ALL my Atari replacement parts from, and all of his parts come PRE-Calibrated for the 2600 and do NOT need adjusting in any way. Follow my instructions and everything WILL work out.

 

RichG1972

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Rich,

 

That's very useful and correct info, if your atari is already properly aligned. Especially the part about the ferrite core being fragile. But I know for a fact that some units have become misaligned in 20+ years. I've measured their outputs. Components deteriorate with age and physical shocks can change the value of fixed reactive components like caps and inductors. Let alone variable ones with moving parts.

 

If your atari is out of alignment, and you adjust your tv to match it, then on the older tv sets that you mention, you'll have to do this every time you switch from atari to tv and back again. they only have one tuner. It's a pain, and it's unnecessary. On newer sets with digital PLL tuning, it's not always a problem because some of them have memory for each individual channel. But still it's suboptimal to tune even an unused channel to a mis-calibrated "standard".

 

Without actually measuring the output, there's no way to know if it's properly aligned or not. Without proper test equipment, the best thing to do is tune your tv to a nice live broadcast, like the evening news, then tune your atari to match your tv. You know the news is at the right frequency, and you know a live broadcast has true colors.

 

BTW, I'm picking up a lot of attitude in your post. Maybe you didn't mean to sound so harsh, so I'm reserving judgement. But in the future, you might want to tone it down a little. These forums are a little hard to tell sometimes and people are touchy.

 

-Chris

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BTW' date=' I'm picking up a lot of attitude in your post. Maybe you didn't mean to sound so harsh, so I'm reserving judgement. [/quote']

 

Indeed - I kind of got a "I'm right don't listen to anyone else" attitude vibe from that post!

 

Hence I'd just like to second CWilkson's post - Atari components drift all over the place as things degrade. Sometimes an Atari can be fixed just by loosening a potentiometer inside, as the contacts degrade too, sometimes you'll need to replace a component - other times you will indeed just need to fine tune the TV.

 

There is never a be-all and end-all solution to all Atari tuning problems, each Atari may have a different problem - there's no miracle cure.

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Graphite and ferrite aren't the same thing..... ;)

 

[stops trying to stick pencils to the wall with magnets...]

 

Ahem. :)

 

LMAO!

 

Damn...now there's Dr. Pepper all over my screen and keyboard. Or there was, before I cleaned it off. Damn you spirantho!!! :P

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well i tried the auto tuning on my tv and that didnt work. im going to get the f connector to try and hook it up directly to my tv tomorrow' date=' any other suggestions? or anyone wanna tell me how to tune the atari itself?[/quote']

 

The F connector will help you get a cleaner picture. After you install that if you still want to tune the Atari, here's a general outline.

 

First, a word of caution. Everything you do from this point on needs to be done gently. Including removing/replacing screws, metal plates, and plastic cases, and turning the tuning inductor. It's been pointed out that the ferrite slug is fragile. But you don't have to worry unless you're forcing it. And I hope I don't need to remind you that your warranty will be void after you do this. ;)

 

Be sure to read this entire post and ask questions before starting. And after you get started, if you're uncertain of something stop to ask for help.

 

Ok. You'll need to remove the Atari's plastic case. I don't have a sixer here with me, so I'll leave the details to you. There will probably be 6 screws set in wells on the bottom. And 2 screws on the surface, maybe with washers, near the center of the case. Remove all but those 2 center screws. And remember where they came from...there may be 2 types. When the screws are removed, you'll have to wiggle the case around to get it loose. Just remove the top...leave all the guts sitting in the bottom half, so you know exactly where they go.

 

After the top of the case is off, look though the holes in the metal shield (on the side that's cast aluminum, not the flat plate that's screwed to it). Hopefully, you'll be able to see the tuning coil. It will be a plastic tower, probably pink or orange, with a dark piece of ferrite in the center. The ferrite core will have a hexagonal hole in its center. I've attached a picture of a motherboard that was completely removed. The pink tower is obvious in this picture. It might be in a different location on your board, but it's unlikely. At any rate the top of the tower should be almost stick out of the RF shield.

 

Once you've found the tower, turn the Atari on and set it and the TV to the same channel. Here's the part where you get super careful. Using an Allen Wrench (aka hex wrench, aka hex tool) turn the slug very gently clockwise until it resists or until you get the best picture, whichever comes first. If you force it, you can strip the threads or shatter the slug. It is now bottomed out and has no place to go but up. Now while watching the tv image, slowly turn the slug in the other direction (counter clockwise) until you get the best picture.

 

Now put everything back together!

 

-Chris

post-260-1090372444_thumb.jpg

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In my experience an adaptor that eliminates the box usually does the trick. I have yet to have to tune one of my 2600,5200,or 7800's but my Super Pong system was a whole nother story. It had been sitting on the porch of an abandoned house for atleast 20 years and had stuff living in it and growing on it.

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Or yet another thing that could be tried is just replacing the RCA video cord, the cord itself could have fragment breaks inside, preventing the full signal from getting through, and I wasn't trying to project an attitude before, I was just trying to say that all OTHER options should be excercise before trying the fine tuning the inside of the Atari bit, all the systems I have repaired have parts that are warrantied by Best Electronics, and if I should mess with those parts for any reason I don't get replacement of those parts at no cost, in fact that means I have to shell out another 35 dollars for another new part or pay to have it repaired. So please heed my point, don't automatically go for the tuning of the inside as a FIRST resort, use it mostly as a last resort and use a jewelers screwdriver to make the adjustment, or if you have one of those old Mr. Microphone toys you can use THAT screwdriver because it's the proper size for the adjustment. But take the neccessary steps, first try the automatic tuning, then if you have an older TV try the manual tuning on that, then if that fails, try replacing the RF cord on the console and use a direct connect RCA to coaxial adapter for the signal input, then as a LAST resort use the tuning of the components tricvk. My point is never jusmp straight to that without trying other things first because when it can often SEEM to be the right move, there are often times where it may prove to be the wrong one and if the adjustment isn't done precisely, it will never be able to be undone and the motherboard will have to be replaced. So take the neccessary steps as I have outlined them and everything should work out fine. Myself I have 2 80's era TV's and ALL my Atari 2600 consoles work perfect on them, and they are gaming only TV's which very soon will go into my new gaming room in the basement, but right now I am restoring and replacing parts in something a LOT more difficult to restore and repair than a 2600 console, oh it IS an Atari product, just not a console or a joystick or paddle or cartridge, give up? Well HERE it IS:

post-2131-1090379096_thumb.jpg

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Rich,

 

That's a nice machine. It looks to be in really good shape. Congrats. It'll make a great centerpiece in your game room. Here's a pic of my Atari, a couple years old. It was a little beat up and it's not much better now, but I've finally got everything working but the flourescent light in the back. Should be a minor fix when I get the time. If your game was DOA like mine, I'm sure you can understand how exciting it was when I got the audio working (the first thing I worked on) and heard "The Force will be with you." :D

 

Now, back to Kenny's problem 2600. The thing that makes me suspect a misaligned tank circuit is the static in the audio. Audio is low frequency and RFI won't affect it. But if it isn't being modulated at 4.5 MHz, you won't be able to tune it in on the TV. Or well, you can but....

 

It's a simple thing to adjust the modulation frequency if you're careful. The worst thing that can happen is a broken ferrite slug and it's not likely. Even if it does break, it's not the end of the world. The entire tower is a $0.75 part. From Best Electronics. There's no reason to throw out the entire machine for just one bad inductor.

 

Back at Rich, the "necessary steps" are different for every person. Throwing money at a problem isn't something that everyone can afford. In this case, it's not guaranteed to fix the problem. Neither is calibrating the circuitry. But there's no point in spending money if you don't have to. BTW, this is not a trick. If you want to talk about tricks vs. procedures vs. necessary steps, I can quote you page, paragraph, and sentence from the 2600/VCS Field Service Manual on any aspect of 2600 operation and repair you choose. But that isn't needed....this is just basic EE 101 stuff. Your signal can never be better than the source that's producing it.

 

Kenny, if you're at Radio Crap to get an RCA to F-coaxial adapter, you might as well get an RCA cable if you don't already have one. It won't hurt anything, it might help in the long run, and you'll only be out a few more bucks. One more thing. If you do try to tune your circuits, UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you use a screwdriver to do it. That's a great way to mess things up. Use the right tool for the job. If you don't have one and you don't want to pay for one, ask your friends or coworkers or relatives. Someone you know will have one the right size.

 

-Chris

 

PS. I remembered to downsize the pic this time. Go me! :D :D

post-260-1090390299_thumb.jpg

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Heh...you must have had one with the super short ground rings. That's happened a couple of times to me too. But it's been so long since I used an RF output on a 2600 that I forgot about that particular issue. You should still get the RCA -> coax adapter if you haven't already. It'll make your life a lot better.

 

Glad you got it working!

 

-Chris

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