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Rebuild controlers with microswithces???


jeepnut24

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Ok, Ive got a few 2600 controllers, but all seem to have one bad direction? Rather than simply buy more 20 year old controllers, is there a proven way to fix the button contacts or is it most likely another issue? My main question is, can I replace the button contacts with simple microswitches? Id rather use the real controllers but I want one that is reliable.

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Why not buy some arcade parts and build yourself a nice stick? The wiring for the 2600 stick is very very simple. You can use a cable from any of the broken Atari sticks you have. If you look at the board in a CX-40, the wire colors are even labeled so figuring out what's what is simple.

 

It can't be that hard, I've done it successfully :D

 

You could also just buy an arcade stick for the Sega Genesis. It'll work fine too. I used to love CX-40's but thye more I used arcade style sticks, the more I preferrred them.

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Why not buy some arcade parts and build yourself a nice stick?  The wiring for the 2600 stick is very very simple.  You can use a cable from any of the broken Atari sticks you have.  If you look at the board in a CX-40, the wire colors are even labeled so figuring out what's what is simple.

 

It can't be that hard, I've done it successfully :D  

 

You could also just buy an arcade stick for the Sega Genesis.  It'll work fine too.  I used to love CX-40's but thye more I used arcade style sticks, the more I preferrred them.

 

Yeah, Ive done that too. Id like to fix up a reliable atari correct stick to use. Something about using the actual stock stick when gaming. I think Im gonna buy four micro push switches and give it a whirl.

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Ok, Ive got a few 2600 controllers, but all seem to have one bad direction?

Sounds like you have broken wires inside the main wire. Get a multimeter with a continuity setting and see if any of the 6 wires going thru the cord are bad. Most likely they are broken, and there is no way to fix that, unless you replace the controller wire.

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Oh, come on! The most common reason I found for one direction to quit working, was one of the metal contact discs slid out of position. All you do is open it up, see which contact(s) are out of place, use a razor hobby knife to cut (gently) a large-ish section of the clear tape around the disc(s), peel it off, clean the disc and the section of the board with alcohol, put the disc back in the right place, then carefully tape it back down with a big piece of package sealing tape. When cutting out the old tape, try to get the cut lines halfway between the disc you're fixing and the ones you want to leave alone. Be careful not to cut deeply into the circuit tracks; a light scratch won't hurt them because they are very thick. Cut your new tape patch bigger than the piece you cut out, but not big enough to put 2 layers of tape over any of the other discs. Wrap it around 1 or 2 edges of the board by 1/2 inch or so if practical.

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Oh, come on! The most common reason I found for one direction to quit working, was one of the metal contact discs slid out of position. All you do is open it up, see which contact(s) are out of place, use a razor hobby knife to cut (gently) a large-ish section of the clear tape around the disc(s), peel it off, clean the disc and the section of the board with alcohol, put the disc back in the right place, then carefully tape it back down with a big piece of package sealing tape. When cutting out the old tape, try to get the cut lines halfway between the disc you're fixing and the ones you want to leave alone. Be careful not to cut deeply into the circuit tracks; a light scratch won't hurt them because they are very thick. Cut your new tape patch bigger than the piece you cut out, but not big enough to put 2 layers of tape over any of the other discs. Wrap it around 1 or 2 edges of the board by 1/2 inch or so if practical.

 

Thanks, but Ive done that multiple times before... :ponder: My real question as stated was has anyone replaced the dome switches with actual microswitches?

 

Thanks for the info on the cord. Ill have to check them.

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Actually, the most predominent problem I've come across with the good ol' CX40s isn't wiring or domes, it's the plastic shaft -- specifically, the base ring with the contact nubs at the four cardinal directions. It breaks with wear and age and loses its rigidity, thus becoming unable to depress the domes properly.

 

I've tried Krazy Glue and epoxy, but it just doesn't cut it. The broken segment still has too much give.

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Actually, the most predominent problem I've come across with the good ol' CX40s isn't wiring or domes, it's the plastic shaft -- specifically, the base ring with the contact nubs at the four cardinal directions.  It breaks with wear and age and loses its rigidity, thus becoming unable to depress the domes properly.

 

I've tried Krazy Glue and epoxy, but it just doesn't cut it.  The broken segment still has too much give.

 

Thanks for that tidbit. I hadn't thought to look at them all that closely. :D

 

The early sticks had a different design for this part correct???

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Thanks for that tidbit. I hadn't thought to look at them all that closely.  :D  

 

The early sticks had a different design for this part correct???

 

I haven't opened up my heavy sixer sticks (they work perfectly so I had no reason to) but I think they're pretty similar. The button is a little different -- same concept, bigger spring.

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A guy on eBay sells the domes that you are looking for. About $7 for 50 of them I believe. Takes about 15 to 30 minutes to get one done, less time as you get more experience. I actually offer the service if you don't feel like doing it yourself:

 

http://www.8bitclassics.com/product_info.p...products_id=487

 

$6 + actual ship per joystick. I have sold many refurbed joysticks (original Atari and Gemstick) with no complaints (that I know of anyway).

 

Corey

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