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VCSp Production line


Haydn Jones

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Hi there, I was told about this thread so I decided to chime in a bit. (I am the original Ben Heckendorn)

 

A large portion (like 75%) of the cost is the displays. I'm looking at some modules that won't require hacking (like pocket TV's do) but aren't a heck of a lot cheaper. BUT it makes the process faster and their modular form gives more options in the case design.

 

RE: Atari on a chip... There was a time when I would have given my left arm (or part of it at least) for access to an AOAC. But now I think it's best to use actual units. This makes the project more interesting to people and also keeps it from being, technically, a "clone"

 

I usually GND out both the diff switches to "EASY" Is this feature that important? If so, perhaps there could be 2 small switches on the back of the Phoenix. Again, I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible but if these switches are sought after I'll include them.

 

RE: the cartridge sticking out the back... Yeah it's not as good as coming out the front but it makes the unit 6.75" tall rather than 8.25" or so. It also allows stuff on the front of the unit to be laid out any way I like, without having to work around the cartridge. This allows the screen to go higher, and that allows the controls to go higher (for a better grip) It really freed me up!

 

RE: paddle trigger. A switch could be used, but in my opinion 2 buttons are easier to implement than 1 switch and 1 button. The paddle trigger is where it is because it's lined up between the trigger and volume knob. The overall layout is basically a grid of circles (I like circles)

 

Oh, the ON/OFF switch is going to be right below the speaker holes. This puts it near the battery terminals and regulators, further simplfying things.

 

The main goal with this thing is something that can built easily (so I don't burn myself out and get sick of it) but also looks good and is as cheap as possible. A tricky balance, to be sure!

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To me the most important thing is usability. Now, considering that this device will not work with those games that require the more exotic peripherals, you should try to ensure that they are the only games that will not work with it. Certain good games like Space Shuttle use the Difficulty Switches and the Color/B&W switch. Secret Quest uses the Color/B&W switch for something other than eliminating the color and I'm sure its not unique. I wonder if B&W would conserve battery power. Could be useful in situations of low battery power. Perhaps a dip-switch block might be in order.

 

Another issue I have with the design is that the volume control is so near the button. In the heat of play your palm or thumb could hit the volume slider, causing a distraction. I remember doing this on some of my Gameboy consoles. I would prefer a less obtrusive serrated wheel (can't think of the proper name for them at the moment located somewhere out of reach.

 

A third issue is what I see as an unnecessary duplication of paddle and joystick buttons. The paddle button on the prototype board seems too small to me in games that rely on rapid presses of the paddle button (shooters which use the paddle.) Also, if you are using a joystick game then it seems quite possible to me to accidentally hit the paddle button, which is connected to the same pin on the RIOT chip as the right joystick direction. I am especially mindful of those of us with big thumbs. What I would suggest is connect the button with two wires to a switch that will determine whether the button is going to the TIA (Joystick) or the RIOT (Paddle).

 

I take it that there is no workable way to rotate the cartridge 45 degrees so that the cartridges are parallel with the unit rather than perpendicular to it.

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I am a big fan of Ben's work. And considering the time and overhead, I think that his portables are reasonably priced. I know that the mass market price (as in sell 1000 of them) would be quite a bit lower, like $80-$100, but these are generally low run items. And the outlay to build that many consoles is unfathomable.

 

I can say that the portables are well built, and with additional refinements they get tighter and tighter. This Phoenix should be a good product/project to get in on if you are in the market.

 

My biggest complaint is actually the left sided paddle on most of the designs. I can't remember which revision it was, but this is reversed on one of the VCSp's the I own, with a button on the left side. That is HIGHLY desirable in my book- even to have a real Atari paddle and/or Joystick sticking out would be super stupid looking (and difficult to find a case for), but it would probably be good for a one off design for playability. Still, a nice knob and design where you could hold the unit like you do a paddle is highly desirable. The upshot- when I want to play Kaboom, I usually do it on a regular unit hooked up to a TV.

 

I still froth over Ben's designs. I would love to see some vacuum molded designs, but then you can just add on 10 hours of work and hundreds in costs. I am pretty tempted to buy some kits for fun, although if I did wire up a portable unit, I'd probably want to do something stupid like put it in a Jr case or a cereal box or whatever.

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