A few quick questions... (Atari modding related)

[cwilkson]

Sigh. I lost my connection to AA while sending and my reply evaporated.

 

Very short summary...

 

Yes, your resistors are completely destroying the logic signals coming out the TIA.

Quick fix: multiply all your resistors by 10x. This will (reduce) the amount of interaction.

 

Also...yes, the 3.3k resistors are supposed to be shorted together. They all connect to VCC.

The TIA uses open-drain outputs. Those resistors are the external pullups for the internal output buffers.

In the schematic, the little triangle pointing up indicates a connection to VCC.

 

BTW, do you have the ability to run arbitrary ROMs on your 2600? (Cuttle Cart, ROM cart, etc...)

If so, I have a test program you can use to see if your 2600 video is doing the right thing.

 

-Chris

[cwilkson]

Can you show a current Air-Sea Battle picture? It looks like the ground in Pitfall! is too dark.

Yeah, it should be yellow:

 

 

Almost all of the blotches and fuzz are due to PC capture, and JPEG compression, BTW.

The original image is about as close to "ideal" as you can get.

 

EDIT: uploaded a PNG instead. It's much cleaner (but larger ).

 

-Chris

Edited March 19, 2007 by cwilkson

[Dragnerok X]

Can you show a current Air-Sea Battle picture? It looks like the ground in Pitfall! is too dark.

 

O.k., here's the current picture.

 

 

If your board has a diode (possibly in series with another resistor) in parallel with any of those resistors that you circled in red on the schematic, try removing it.

 

Sorry, no diode. Just a bunch of resistors and capacitators.

 

Yes, your resistors are completely destroying the logic signals coming out the TIA.

Quick fix: multiply all your resistors by 10x. This will (reduce) the amount of interaction.

 

How are the resistors "destroying" it? The ladder is perfectly fine. Unless, of course, you are refering to A.J.'s earlier comment on my resistor ladder and the atari's current circuit not getting along. If that's what you are saying, wouldn't it just be easier to basically separate the mod from the system altogether (tie the signals into their raw inputs)?

 

BTW, do you have the ability to run arbitrary ROMs on your 2600? (Cuttle Cart, ROM cart, etc...) If so, I have a test program you can use to see if your 2600 video is doing the right thing.

 

If the program is <4k it will most likely run on my supercharger, otherwise sorry, no.

Edited March 19, 2007 by Dragnerok X

[A.J. Franzman]

Well, you've still got luma levels out of whack. The latest Air-Sea Battle image still shows two stripes in the middle that are out of sequence. I'm guessing either the lum1 resistor value is off, or it could just be what cwilkson said about the resistor values being too low overall, allowing too much interaction between the signals.

Edited March 19, 2007 by A.J. Franzman

[Dragnerok X]

Well, you've still got luma levels out of whack. The latest Air-Sea Battle image still shows two stripes in the middle that are out of sequence. I'm guessing either the lum1 resistor value is off,

 

I'll look into that tonight...

 

or it could just be what cwilkson said about the resistor values being too low overall, allowing too much interaction between the signals.

 

Could be also, but if that's the case, how did ben heckendorn's original mod work? It's mid-level luma value (and the only solid-state value, at that) was 2.2k, only a 200 ohm differene from mine.

[Dragnerok X]

I'll look into that tonight...

 

Last night, I looked into it quite a bit. I double checked resistor values, followed circuit tracks, checked jumper wires, even did a bit of touch-up soldering but have come to no avail. Same picture, same everything.

 

I do, however, have an idea. During my examination, I've noticed that besides the row of 3.3k resistors mentioned earlier, there really isn't much left between stella (the T.I.A.) and my video output. No Rf modulator, No connection to the sound; really all which is left is a resistor and a few capacitators connected which would have fed to the now dis-connected rf unit.

 

Going with chris's idea, If I just removed those seemingly un-necessary components wouldn't things begin to "balance out"? If that were the case, that might also cut down power consumption and noise (though under very small margins).

 

I guess I'm just not sure here. Chris, A.J., Feel free to give me feedback on this, this idea was very quickly thought up and still in the "planning stages" so really anything would help now.

 

 

BTW:

 

Could be also, but if that's the case, how did ben heckendorn's original mod work? It's mid-level luma value (and the only solid-state value, at that) was 2.2k, only a 200 ohm differene from mine.

 

I wasn't thinking, sorry. The resistor Ben uses is a 220 ohm, not 2.2k. Big difference.

[Dragnerok X]

Chris, A.J., Feel free to give me feedback on this...

 

Please?

[cwilkson]

Chris, A.J., Feel free to give me feedback on this...

 

Please?

 

Sorry....I've been way busy the last few days....getting a Gauntlet arcade setup in my room. WOOHOO!!!

I mean, um....

 

But as a result, I had to move everything around, including tearing down my 2600 setup. I hope to have that back online tomorrow, at which point I'll come up with a list of things for you to try.

 

Meanwhile, try this: (the following assumes that you have already disconnected the "colorspot" from you circuit)

 

1) disconnect your 4k resistor from TIA pin 8. (just leave the resistor floating in the air is ok.) Post a screenshot.

2) now also disconnect your 2k resistor from TIA pin 5. Post a screenshot.

 

It sounds like you may have a couple of crossed luma wires. I know that you've already checked that, but when I stare at a bug for a certain length of time, there comes a point when there's no chance I'll ever see it. probably the same for most people.

 

-Chris

[cwilkson]

Actually, looking closely at your last screenshot, it looks like LUM2 isn't having a big enough impact (relatively speaking). Conventional wisdom says to make that resistor smaller or the LUM2 voltage bigger. But all of the resistors are already too small and that's what's most likely causing your problems. In fact, their being too small makes the effective voltage inputs smaller, which is the opposite of the convention wisdom fix. Ok...that's turning into a rant. So: Go ahead and do the tests I suggested.

 

I'll have more for you tomorrow.

 

-Chris

[Dragnerok X]

Accidental double post. Scroll down...

Edited March 22, 2007 by Dragnerok X

[Dragnerok X]

Sorry....I've been way busy the last few days....getting a Gauntlet arcade setup in my room. WOOHOO!!!

I mean, um....

 

But as a result, I had to move everything around, including tearing down my 2600 setup. I hope to have that back online tomorrow, at which point I'll come up with a list of things for you to try.

 

Meanwhile, try this: (the following assumes that you have already disconnected the "colorspot" from you circuit)

 

1) disconnect your 4k resistor from TIA pin 8. (just leave the resistor floating in the air is ok.) Post a screenshot.

2) now also disconnect your 2k resistor from TIA pin 5. Post a screenshot.

 

It sounds like you may have a couple of crossed luma wires. I know that you've already checked that, but when I stare at a bug for a certain length of time, there comes a point when there's no chance I'll ever see it. probably the same for most people.

 

-Chris

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

Here you go.

 

(all pictures taken with "colorspot" disconnected, in color mode. Difference in brightness is due to the camera, not the mod)

 

w/o pin 8's 4k resistor:

 

 

w/o pin 8's 4k resistor & pin 5s 2k resistor:

 

 

I hope this will give some kind of hint as to what the problem really is.

 

BTW:

 

Sorry....I've been way busy the last few days....getting a Gauntlet arcade setup in my room. WOOHOO!!!

I mean, um....

 

Nice!

Edited March 22, 2007 by Dragnerok X

[cwilkson]

I hope this will give some kind of hint as to what the problem really is.

Well, it tells us what it *isn't*. These pics confirm that your LUM[2:0] lines are connected in the right order.

 

So....I sat down and did the math. (You owe me! )

 

Assumptions:

- /SYNC is high (contributes 3.3K to "tied to VCC")

- when a LUM line is low, it is a short to GND (internally). It contributes 4K, 2K, or 1K to "tied to GND" as appropriate.

- when a LUM line is high, the pin is an open circuit (internally). It contributes 3.3K + (4K, 2K, or 1K as appropriate) to "tied to VCC".

 

Here's what I get on paper:

 

LUM[2:0] |		  tied to VCC		  |   tied to GND	| Vout (unloaded) | Vout (loaded with 75 Ohm)
---------+-------------------------------+------------------+-----------------+--------------------------
 000	|						  3.3K | 1K||2K||4K = 570 |		  0.736V | 0.098V
 001	| 3.3K||7.3K			 = 2.3K | 1K||2K	 = 667 |		  1.120V | 0.142V
 010	| 3.3K||5.3K			 = 2.0K | 1K||4K	 = 800 |		  1.429V | 0.166V
 011	| 3.3K||5.3K||7.3K	   = 1.6K |			   1K |		  1.923V | 0.209V
 100	| 3.3K||4.3K			 = 1.9K | 2K||4K	= 1.3K |		  2.031V | 0.180V
 101	| 3.3K||4.3K||7.3K	   = 1.5K |			   2K |		  2.857V | 0.230V
 110	| 3.3K||4.3K||5.3K	   = 1.4K |			   4K |		  3.704V | 0.250V
 111	| 3.3K||4.3K||5.3K||7.3K = 1.2K |	 open circuit |		  5.000V | 0.294V

Pay attention to that last column. It's not monotonically increasing!!! (That is, the numbers don't steadily increase.) And it matches your screenshot above, too.

So...I think we've determined that your circuit is working correctly according to the design. But the design is buggy. How do we fix it?

 

We could do some grungy math. (YUCK!!)

Or we could sprinkle some buffers around. (Best thing, but it complicates the circuit.)

 

If there's no output buffer, and there's a 75 Ohm load, the "tied to GND" column above is always "close" to 75 Ohms.

So all we need to do is make sure that the "tied to VCC" column is monotonically decreasing.

 

(plays with a spreadsheet)

 

Here's a plot of your luma levels, with LUM2->1K, LUM1->2K, LUM0->4K:

 

 

Nasty hitch in the middle. Ouch. Increasing the resistors in your D2A will help reduce the loading of the TIA's outputs, improving the "ideal-ness" of the circuit. The easiest way to increase ratioed resistors is to multiply by ten. Then you'll still be using standard values. Doing this gives the loaded voltages below. Still not great, but at least they're monotonic.

 

0.111

0.119

0.126

0.134

0.137

0.146

0.153

0.161

 

Plotting these shows there's still a hitch at the halfway point with LUM2->10K, LUM1->20K, LUM0->40K:

 

 

What we want is for the LUM2 line to have more influence, so we slightly reduce the value of that resistor.

Here's a plot showing resistor values of LUM2->8.2K, LUM1->20K, LUM0->40K...

 

 

Ok. That looks pretty good! Of course the voltages involved are really small for video. ~50mV peak-peak where standard video is more like 700mVp-p.

And I made all those assumptions and neglections (well...it's a word now!) so you won't know what it *really* looks like until you build it. But it might get you by until you decide to use some voltage buffers.

 

 

Sorry....I've been way busy the last few days....getting a Gauntlet arcade setup in my room. WOOHOO!!!

I mean, um....

 

Nice!

Awwww......yeeeeaaaaahhhhhhh!

It's actually a dual machine. It's an original Gauntlet cab, with the original board, but the board has been modified to play Gauntlet or Gauntlet II. I'm diggin it.

 

-Chris

[A.J. Franzman]

What would your graph and p-p output voltage look like if the resistor ladder were made of ~ 1.0k, 5.3k and 13.9k resistors?

 

EDIT: changed the values a couple of times but I think I like them now.

 

RE-EDIT: No, actually, I like the second version better: ~ 3.3k, 9.9k, 23.1k .

Edited March 22, 2007 by A.J. Franzman

[cwilkson]

What would your graph and p-p output voltage look like if the resistor ladder were made of ~ 1.0k, 5.3k and 13.9k resistors?

 

EDIT: changed the values a couple of times but I think I like them now.

 

RE-EDIT: No, actually, I like the second version better: ~ 3.3k, 9.9k, 23.1k .

I killed the spreadsheet. Sorry. But you can do the math too. It's just computing parallel resistances and voltage dividers....

Maybe I'll put it back together this weekend.

 

-Chris

[cwilkson]

I killed the spreadsheet.

Nevermind. I rebuilt it. Here's some pics for you with your values of 3.3k, 9.9k, 23.1k:

 

 

Not bad with a load attached. But note that the voltage levels are still way low. There's nothing you can do about it. Sorta...

You're limited by the size of the /SYNC pullup resistor. If you put a 2K in parallel with the existing 3.3K (and neglecting the 3 LUM resistors - i.e assume that the total loaded pulldown is exactly 75 Ohms) then you get 284mV which is really close to the ideal 2/7 Volts for the loaded black level. You could work from there to find the other resistor values. But making the pullups smaller makes the TIA work harder to pull down (=hot chip, = dead chip). It may not even be able to pull down hard enough to give you a reliable ~0V out, depending on how small you make the pullup.

 

A better solution is to add an output buffer...easy to do, and helps *a lot*. In many ways: voltage levels, power consumption, impedance matching, less icky math, etc.

 

BTW, here's the other set of resistors:

 

 

More contrast, which is good. But the black level is a little lower, which makes it worse overall.

 

-Chris

[A.J. Franzman]

Thanks!

 

Yeah, I realized that the main source of the problem is the 3.3k /SYNC pull-up resistor and it would be nice to have a smaller value there but it might hurt the TIA. Also, it would be easier to use real-world resistor values like 1.0k, 5.1k and 15k, which won't change that second graph much. I like the lower black level; I always disliked that when I set the TV brightness low enough to make the blacks really "black", the next lighter luma level is too dark. What the 2600 needs is a 3-way set of gamma controls (low, high, and overall).

[Dragnerok X]

I hope this will give some kind of hint as to what the problem really is.

Well, it tells us what it *isn't*. These pics confirm that your LUM[2:0] lines are connected in the right order.

 

So....I sat down and did the math. (You owe me! )

 

Assumptions:

- /SYNC is high (contributes 3.3K to "tied to VCC")

- when a LUM line is low, it is a short to GND (internally). It contributes 4K, 2K, or 1K to "tied to GND" as appropriate.

- when a LUM line is high, the pin is an open circuit (internally). It contributes 3.3K + (4K, 2K, or 1K as appropriate) to "tied to VCC".

 

Here's what I get on paper:

 

LUM[2:0] |		  tied to VCC		  |   tied to GND	| Vout (unloaded) | Vout (loaded with 75 Ohm)
---------+-------------------------------+------------------+-----------------+--------------------------
 000	|						  3.3K | 1K||2K||4K = 570 |		  0.736V | 0.098V
 001	| 3.3K||7.3K			 = 2.3K | 1K||2K	 = 667 |		  1.120V | 0.142V
 010	| 3.3K||5.3K			 = 2.0K | 1K||4K	 = 800 |		  1.429V | 0.166V
 011	| 3.3K||5.3K||7.3K	   = 1.6K |			   1K |		  1.923V | 0.209V
 100	| 3.3K||4.3K			 = 1.9K | 2K||4K	= 1.3K |		  2.031V | 0.180V
 101	| 3.3K||4.3K||7.3K	   = 1.5K |			   2K |		  2.857V | 0.230V
 110	| 3.3K||4.3K||5.3K	   = 1.4K |			   4K |		  3.704V | 0.250V
 111	| 3.3K||4.3K||5.3K||7.3K = 1.2K |	 open circuit |		  5.000V | 0.294V

Pay attention to that last column. It's not monotonically increasing!!! (That is, the numbers don't steadily increase.) And it matches your screenshot above, too.

So...I think we've determined that your circuit is working correctly according to the design. But the design is buggy. How do we fix it?

 

We could do some grungy math. (YUCK!!)

Or we could sprinkle some buffers around. (Best thing, but it complicates the circuit.)

 

If there's no output buffer, and there's a 75 Ohm load, the "tied to GND" column above is always "close" to 75 Ohms.

So all we need to do is make sure that the "tied to VCC" column is monotonically decreasing.

 

(plays with a spreadsheet)

 

Here's a plot of your luma levels, with LUM2->1K, LUM1->2K, LUM0->4K:

 

 

Nasty hitch in the middle. Ouch. Increasing the resistors in your D2A will help reduce the loading of the TIA's outputs, improving the "ideal-ness" of the circuit. The easiest way to increase ratioed resistors is to multiply by ten. Then you'll still be using standard values. Doing this gives the loaded voltages below. Still not great, but at least they're monotonic.

 

0.111

0.119

0.126

0.134

0.137

0.146

0.153

0.161

 

Plotting these shows there's still a hitch at the halfway point with LUM2->10K, LUM1->20K, LUM0->40K:

 

 

What we want is for the LUM2 line to have more influence, so we slightly reduce the value of that resistor.

Here's a plot showing resistor values of LUM2->8.2K, LUM1->20K, LUM0->40K...

 

 

Ok. That looks pretty good! Of course the voltages involved are really small for video. ~50mV peak-peak where standard video is more like 700mVp-p.

And I made all those assumptions and neglections (well...it's a word now!) so you won't know what it *really* looks like until you build it. But it might get you by until you decide to use some voltage buffers.

 

 

Sorry....I've been way busy the last few days....getting a Gauntlet arcade setup in my room. WOOHOO!!!

I mean, um....

 

Nice!

Awwww......yeeeeaaaaahhhhhhh!

It's actually a dual machine. It's an original Gauntlet cab, with the original board, but the board has been modified to play Gauntlet or Gauntlet II. I'm diggin it.

 

-Chris

 

Thanks for doing that math, I could never dream of doing something like that myself.

 

I'm (guessing I am) starting to get what your saying, though. Basically, at least what I got out of it was that the 3.3k "VCC chain" was designed to work with the original d->a ladder, which coincidently, was about ten times that of mine, along with ground to maintain a 75 ohm load. When I used the resistors I did, it must have thrown the design into shambles and thus it has effected itself upon the stability of my luma levels.

 

Correct me if I got something wrong, though.

 

Now for what I want to know:

 

1. What (common) real-world resistors can/should be used for attaining such corrections as you mentioned?

 

2. Wouldn't increasing the resistor values technically decrease my picture's brightness?

 

3. Besides the obvious 10x quick-fix what other (realistic) fixes would you recommend for my

luma-ladder?

 

That's all.

 

[cwilkson]

 

Thanks for doing that math, I could never dream of doing something like that myself.

Of course you could. It's just computing parallel resistors [R1*R2/(R1+R2)] and voltage dividers [Vin*Rbottom/(Rbottom+Rtop)]. It's just a little tedious. Actually, creating that splifty table was *much* more challenging. Enough so that I decided to dig into Excel so I wouldn't have to do that anymore. Then, since I was already using "X-Hell", I decided plots would really show the concepts well.

I'm (guessing I am) starting to get what your saying, though. Basically, at least what I got out of it was that the 3.3k "VCC chain" was designed to work with the original d->a ladder, which coincidently, was about ten times that of mine, along with ground to maintain a 75 ohm load. When I used the resistors I did, it must have thrown the design into shambles and thus it has effected itself upon the stability of my luma levels.

Actually, I suspect that those 3.3k's were chosen to work with the TIA. Then the D2A resistors were chosen to limit the loading to acceptable levels. The 75 Ohm load thing is actually for sending raw video signals though cables. Remember that the 2600 was designed to feed an RF modulator with a high imput impedance. If they had been driving external cables, they would have put a buffer after the D2A. But yes, messing with one part of a design without considering the effect on the other parts is bound to break something eventually. I knew a guy back in the day whose parents stuck a 454 engine in a Chevette. What a cool concept. That car was all engine. But after they did it, they had to fill the trunk with concrete for it to get any traction. And after they did that, they had to upgrade the suspension. And after they did that, the shortened drive shaft didn't work anymore (they mounted the new engine in the back seat - a mid-engine Chevette. Crazy. It went on and on. Wow. What a tangent! Back on topic now.

1. What (common) real-world resistors can/should be used for attaining such corrections as you mentioned?

 

2. Wouldn't increasing the resistor values technically decrease my picture's brightness?

 

3. Besides the obvious 10x quick-fix what other (realistic) fixes would you recommend for my

luma-ladder?

1) Those resistors values I gave are real world values. Well, not 40k But if you're willing to build a 4K from two 2k's, then building a 40k from two 20k's should be ok. If you want to use a single resistor for each leg, I would recommend 8.2k, 20k, 39k. They are standard 5% resistors available any any good electronics shop. *** 39k is within 5% of 40k, BTW. So you might get lucky!

 

2) It would certainly reduce the contrast. But I think it'll have minimal impact on the brightness. Contrast can be loosely defined in terms of the distance between full black and full white. As those resistors grow, they'll have less capability to yank the output voltage up or down. Brightness can be loosely defined in terms of the distance from the blank or "blacker than black" level to full black. In this incarnation, no matter what you do, the loaded output black level is going to be right at 0.1V. (Anything over 1k in parallel with 75 is ~75 so the actual value has little impact.)

 

3) I think the 10x is the simplest mathematically. And it's the simplest when it comes to finding the actual parts...they're all standard values (39k is standard). If you want to get "better" than this, I think it's time to look at some buffers. Good digital buffers for the TIA, and a good analog buffer for your D2A. Chroma is a beast that I don't even want to talk about. But the same applies. Buffers, buffers, buffers. And an adder someplace. (that's what your d2A is, BTW...it's creating and adding currents.)

 

*** Radio Shack is not a good electronics store, therefore you can't get standard value resistors there.

 

Summary:

Step 1) get yourself some bigger resistors (8.2k, 20k, 39k) to get luma working.

Step 2) ??

Step 3) [Video] Profits!

 

Sorry. Everytime I write "step 1-step 3" I have to make that South Park joke. Step 2 should be "pray to the chroma gods that a mighty solution be sent to you." Or something like that. Or just ask here. And Step 0 should be "find something other than Radio Shack if you intend to do this alot." Not to say that I don't use Radio shack when desperate. It's just that I *very* seldom find what I need (or even a reasonable short-term substitute) and the staff is almost always useless. Although there was this cool guy who actually knew what a choke was, how to apply it, and he suggested some places to find the best types fro my friend's project. But he was a freak occurance. A singularity.

 

Yes, I'm bitter.

-Chris

[A.J. Franzman]

*** Radio Shack is not a good electronics store, therefore you can't get standard value resistors there.

Well, sometimes you can, if you happen to want one of the 3 values they have in stock, or one of the ones that they put into their big "assortment" pack.

 

But if you have a Fry's near you, try them for a quick resistor buy.

[Dragnerok X]

*** Radio Shack is not a good electronics store, therefore you can't get standard value resistors there.

Well, sometimes you can, if you happen to want one of the 3 values they have in stock, or one of the ones that they put into their big "assortment" pack.

 

But if you have a Fry's near you, try them for a quick resistor buy.

 

Sorry, I've only a Radio Shack nearby, but they aren't that bad, from my experiance. The only thing that really gets me is how they're cell phone department rains supreme over the entire store. That, and yes, what Chris said. Hey, it's better than Best Buy!

 

But oh well, back on topic.

 

I'll see if I can get those (or at least close to those) resistors you've mentioned. Most likely, I've probably got a few lying around here somewhere, but if not, I'll try 1."Cell-Shack" (Radio Shack) or 2.The internet. I only put Radio Shack ahead because I hate waiting for shipping and I don't want to put this project on hold.

 

By the way, thanks Chris for clearing things up; I think I've got the jist now.

 

Now for the interesting part. The night before last, I was kind of bored so I decided "What the heck, I should try upgrading my measley composite a/v mod to S-Video!", and so I did. Basically, what's set up now is the same as last, I've just seperated the chorma/luma line before shooting it through the cable. Probably the strangest thing about this mod is how I've taken a jumper wire and shot it between my "audio spot" and the old rf jack, so now I have my old rf - cable serving it's time in the audio world.

 

Finally, I had to post a problem right now didn't I?

 

This should be easy for you. My new S-video setup works fine, it's just that when the S-video cable is plugged in the sound mutes a bit. Is this the fault of a bad ground? Any other ideas?

 

EDIT: Problem solved. Just a bit of solder between the audio and color signals got tied together, putting more load on the audio when the video was plugged in.

 

...aaannnd done!

 

[termination of post occurs]

 

Edited March 24, 2007 by Dragnerok X

[Dragnerok X]

Next update.

 

I've just set up/found resistors for a decent luma-ladder, however, I'm worried it may be too far off. Here's what I have: 1 39k resistor, a 15k and a 5.6k resistor to form a 20.6k resistor, and finally a 5.6k and a 2.7k resistor to form 8.3k. That last one is the one I'm worried about, probably too far off. Chris, could you plot this resistor set-up really quick, that would be great.

 

 

Also, now that I do have video, I can barely see a thing on any of my t.v.'s without turning brightness and contrast up to monstrous levels. This probably has to do with the lack of contrast mentioned earlier, and most likely, I have to build an amplifier of some kind to fix it. Mind verifying that for me?

 

Finally, I am also losing a bit of sync as when the picture faces dramatic changes (like changing the maze in Jr. Pac-man) the picure flips out and becomes a little wobbly towards the top. This, as I'm guessing also relates to the lack of much signal mentioned above. I could be wrong, so correct me if you must, but that's just my two cents.

 

Wow, I sure have gotten quite a bit done on this lately!

 

--Dragnerok X

[Dragnerok X]

Was it Gauntlet this time?

Edited March 26, 2007 by Dragnerok X

[cwilkson]

Was it Gauntlet this time?

Nope...it's sleep. Or lack thereof.

 

That spreadsheet only exists on my machine at home BTW, and I haven't been there much lately.

Don't worry...I'm watching this topic, and I'll reply to everything. Eventually.

[Dragnerok X]

Was it Gauntlet this time?

Nope...it's sleep. Or lack thereof.

 

That spreadsheet only exists on my machine at home BTW, and I haven't been there much lately.

Don't worry...I'm watching this topic, and I'll reply to everything. Eventually.

 

Well... okay.

 

Just to let you know there are two very replyable posts above that last one. (HINT,HINT!)

[cwilkson]

Now for the interesting part. The night before last, I was kind of bored so I decided "What the heck, I should try upgrading my measley composite a/v mod to S-Video!", and so I did. Basically, what's set up now is the same as last, I've just seperated the chorma/luma line before shooting it through the cable. Probably the strangest thing about this mod is how I've taken a jumper wire and shot it between my "audio spot" and the old rf jack, so now I have my old rf - cable serving it's time in the audio world.

Separating the signals is a great thing. Good for you. Nothing but "happy" can come of that. The rest of this is a little confusing. Are you using 2 cables for video, one for luma and one for chroma? (you should be...or use a s-video cable) Oh nevermind, you mentioned an s-video cable. Did you disconnect the RF cable from the RF modulator before connecting so audio signal to it? You should, otherwise you're probably hurting the modulator. I know maybe you think you don't need it anymore, but why kill it?

 

-Chris