Condition of games

[Rick]

On a scale of 1 to 10 (like on Cart Commander) how do you tell what condition your cart is in, and is 10 the best or worst condition?

[Adrian M]

On a scale of 1 to 10 (like on Cart Commander) how do you tell what condition your cart is in, and is 10 the best or worst condition?

 

10 is the best condition..a ten would be classified as a new, unblemished game, probably still in the shrinkwrap.

 

How do you tell what condition the carts are in? Usually you look at the label. What you really want is a clean lable, with no tears, mottling or scratching. If any of that exists on your label, you must deduct points to bring the condition down a few notches.

 

Next, you would check for an end label. If that's there, then see what shape it's in and adjust your condition grading accordingly. Finally, check the actual cart casing and check for broken tabs, cracks, dirt, scratches, etc.

 

If you have the box, manual and any inserts, inspect and grade them the same way as if it were the cart. Look for no creases, smudges, water marks, bent edges, etc. Pretty simple stuff. If you need further explanation, check atariage or get a hold of one of those baseball cart or coin collection grading books. It will tell you what to look for and how to adjust your grading depending on the various factors.

[Chris++]

If I can play the damn thing, it's a "10."

 

(Okay, maybe it would get a "9" if the label was missing and I had to plug it in to find out what it was. But these are always Frogger or Empire, so...TEN!)

 

CF

[Pitfall Harry]

It's funny how many collectors go into extravagant detail when defining the condition of a cartridge without so much as a word about functionality. Grading guides for coins and stamps and baseball cards work fine for the stone dead, inanimate objects they were written for. But I couldn't give a rat's patootie about a cartridge with a minty fresh label if the ROM inside failed to load on demand.

 

I'd give Quadrun a big fat ZERO (on a 1 to 10 Condition Scale) if I couldn't play it, no matter how pristine its label. If I have to jiggle and wiggle a game into my console's slot or angle it at just right to get it to play, there would be major Condition Points to be subtracted from it in my book. Surprisingly few collectors ever bother to ask about the condition of the metal contacts of the cartridge's edge connector. An Atari game may look good cosmetically and still have been played to death or to near death from the mechanical erosion or corrosion of its contacts. A game cartridge may have spent its entire life shrinkwrapped in the box but born with flaky solder joints inside. Should such a game rate a "Condition 10" because it was untouched by human hands? Or should it be awarded a somewhat lesser Condition Rating if it resets every time you inadvertently breathe on it during gameplay?

 

Maybe it's just me. Maybe the classic gaming hobby is dominated by Label Art collectors rather than by classic game players. Maybe it would be for the best if we all ran out and had our rare games professionally graded, certified and hermetically sealed in plastic slabs to safeguard them from the inevitable degradation that results from enjoyment of their design purpose. And to silence fools like me who think that functionality bears the slightest relationship to condition.

 

Ben

[Chris++]

Well-stated, as always, Ben. This seems to be a major matter of debate. My opinion is that if there's no pleasure in playing a game, the STUFF that houses the game, or makes it work, automatically loses its aesthetic pleasure as well. Why own something I'm not going to use? So my apartment looks colorful?

 

In other words, in my eyes, functionality EQUALS worth.

 

But I don't try to impose my outlook on others. If the mere act of collecting and cataloguing makes someone genuinely happy, his opinion is just as valid as mine. But beware, friends, of finding happiness in STUFF. I'll leave it at that.

 

CF

[Adrian M]

Like it or not, that is how the grading process works and I happen to agree with it. Myself, if I'm gonna spend the money (no matter how trivial the amount) on an Atari cart, it better have a label and be in somewhat decent condition. It never ceases to amaze me at how poorly people take care of their personal belongings as evidenced by torn labels, excessive scratching, etc. If I'm gonna get a cart that's in terrible cosmetic shape, regardless if it works or not, I will pay the absolute minimum for it unless its a rare item that I may never have the chance to buy again.

 

When I see pictures of some people's game rooms and see game systems and games strewn about in haphazard piles, I shudder. This stuff costs good money yet many gamers treat their gaming stuff like garbage which its not! Maybe it's just me since I was brought up appreciating my personal belongings and keeping stuff in relatively good condition, but that's why I'm not a big fan of buying used items. If at all possible, I'll buy only shrinkwrapped items as it is a pretty safe guarantee that the stuff will be in good working order.

[StanJr]

I'm as big a lable freak as they come, but functionality ALWAYS takes prescedence. I can always try to upgrade to a cleaner label later.

 

I do think functionality MUST factor into a games condition.

[Baby Mac]

I hear ya on that one Adrian, theres nothing worse than having a friend over that throws your controller when they mess up, or they use their feet to turn the power button on.

 

But its not just second hand stuff-i bought 7 DC games the other day, but to find them, they threw a whole box of DC and PSX games all over the floor, and two of my games ended up having cracks in the back of the case. And it couldve been prevented if they took the time rather than rushing to sell it.

[ATARIPITBULL]

For me it has to play and the label has to have no markes or rips then I would call that a nine, but only a cartridge from a never before opened box will I call a ten.

 

[zraider]

I agree with Ataripitbull completely, and that somewhat describes what makes a "mint" game. It does get a little ambiguous though, because if it's unopened, how do you know if it works. But come on, how many new games has any member purchased and opened that did'nt work ? I know we're talking 20 or so years later, but I don't think that would matter a lot unless the game had been stored underwater or worse. I think I'd opt for a game working out of the package, even 20+ years old, if it were truely the original. JMHO......