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Atari 410 and 1010 belts


Urchlay

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Ok, listed below are the three main belts with part numbers from CPC for the Atari 410:

 

Rewind: 97mm x 1.2 = CPC AVBELT 69

 

Fast Forward: 113mm x 1.1mm = CPC AVBELT 76

 

Play (Main): 201mm x 1.2 mm = CPC AVBELT 100

 

As regards the counter belt, any small rubber band will suffice as it's non-critical.

 

Just to let you all know replaceing the belts does nothing for rewind and play if the IDLERS are weak now the play idler is a white disk with a rubber hose washer inside it

 

 

You can use a #6 sink diverter sink washer from hardware store look in the Drawers of rubber parts bring white idler part with you then show it to store keeper hardware store employer and ask for replacement hose washer they will find exact part instantly and it only costs $1.50 or less mine costed 95¢ anyway the line table youre working on with news paper cause

these rubber washers are real rubber and leave streaks on table then replace washer seat it by rolling on the news paper it will seem to taught and to tight ignore this as this is what a new wahser feels like in the plastic holder idler BE CAREFULL NOT TO BREAK THE IDELR WHEN INSERTING OR REMOVING THE OLD washer ..

then on the TAKE up reel remove the RED plastic cap using a wire cutter VERY carefully not to mar it then use finger nail to

remove it the rest of the way carefull not to snap it off inside it self then remove the take up wheel the thing that takes the tape up and remove the spring cut it in half I dont mean the circle cut you know normally cut it in half make it half as long then strech it out a little not to mutch just a little just to make it seem as long as the old one but it will be weaker as intended cause the toughtness of the spring factory was a Factory REWORK crock they never caught cause they only tested it to see it "play" when hooked to atari this is because back then it was ported to mexico and they DIDNT test to see if it rewound or fast forwarded properly but when you snip the spring in half making it as weak as the felt almost it actually will rewind like it was better than new cause even out of the box in 1979 it never rewound I thought it was defective but they all are and the spring was the wrong length so just snip it it will make it worth MORE not less cause it will operate properly .. ok now the next thing i say will be very imortant AT ALL TIMES when Storing unit NOT using it

make shure you push play and pause at the same time

so push play then make shure pause is engaged when storing this relases all idlers off the rewind play wheels and motor asembly and makes it store in a way that the rewind fast forward idler and the play idler are disengaged.

the rewind idler is non replacable or really hard to find it makes a rattle noise cause noone stored it properly and it got a dent in it if someone would have pushed play and pause from the factory all i would have had to replace is the main belt and the play idler the capistain roller pinch roller was MINT cause it was disengaged !!!!!!!! so please push play and pause now..

I noticed this 20 years ago but since I had lost the tape player i could not push play and pause I found it and the pause and play were engaged but the thing was in peices I fixed 2 of the 3 i have I got one on ebay and it is in mint condition the spring and the new play idler fixed those damn load errors..

as far as getting belts they are not hard to find .the hose washer is the most important part because it determines the speed of play and the pinch roller is important too but if the take up reel spring is to strong it wont move causeing tape to be eaten so snip that then replace it and idler rubber and belts and viola you now can save and load data at same speed as you saved it.

finnally after 23 years of errors and load errors I loaded my game and got spanish to load after 3 years of errors I finnaly decided to FIX it ..

the idea of the play idler came to me when fixing a VCR the same way the idlers were toast..

now there is a rubber supply house on the internet that might fabricate a rewind fastforward idler for you but since it works when you shorten the take up wheel spring by cutting it in half why so it rattles when rewinding at least it rewinds and fast forwards.

If anyone Finds a Atari® 410 in mint condition that from the Factory or when new had the pause and play buttons pushed and the rewind or fastforward idler is in mint condition let me know I want to buy it as I always want a way to save and retrive data in case of a emp disaster ..

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Just goto hardware store and spend $1.00 for a new hose washer a #6 diverter sink washer is the exact thing they used when manafactured the 410 rubber is rubber.. anyway its easy to fix then snip the take up reel spring inside the take up reel on the right side and cut it in half then put the one of the halfs back in and it sould rewind like new it might rattle on the rewind/fastforward idler cause that one is very hard to replace and still works w the small dent .

PUSH PLAY PAUSE PLEASE.

thanks and good luck .

PS if you break one I still have a spare that works If anyone needs one I can part w ONE but need to keep the other one for cause its MINT

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I almost forgot the 410 with the ground works better than the 1010 cause the ground eliminates backround noise and makes a better connection to the a800/400/xl also i think it grounds the whole system I dont know why they did the ground but I assume it gave better UL.

weird since the whole case is plastic the ground does little to nothing to protect from a short ..

and it cant ground something thats not grounded as the 800/400 units and the xl ones do not hook to ground either I havent checked weather it grounds the 800 to gnd but I will now look to see if the gnd is gnd or just hooked to the mech gnd if it hooks to the tape head gnd on the pcb then the whole atari 800 gets grounded from the audio ground witch should not cause problems cause the whole problem was the damn take up reel eating tapes and the play idler not moving the pinch roller now be carefull on some units the main belt breaks off the pinch roller and unglues ruining the whole unit to garbage unless you can reweld it somehow I just gave up on that one and used parts from a old mech to fix that one so I probably had 4 units at one time.

NOW it loads and saves and reloads and saves and works like new better than new..

now onto loading my astro game and saving that ontop of van halen from boombox 1st i need mp3 then a soldering iron to unsolder the erase head then a I need to rerecord onto the tape saving astro.bas to the same tape now that the counter works using a rubberbinder for a braces or small binder I can save multi games again..

the coolest thing about the tape player is you can use it for a electronic relay system if you wanted you could use motor on motor off to turn anything on or off you just rewire tape player motor to a relay then when its on it is on and when its off its off then you can switch a higher power relay on and off and turn things like lights on and off with it..

remember this is just a concept i never got around to doing but can if i wanted I just forgot the poke 54 somthing to turn it on.

also there is a nother poke to turn music channel on cause right is data and left is audio or vs versa I dont remember 24 years ago!!!

 

but I do remember I wish i had found the idler and pushed pause and play back then and found a hosewasher back then I thought it was alignment problem! no it was a 50¢ rubber washer and a snipped spring that fixed it for good.

csave "astro.bas"

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know I was going to delete that whole post but I pushed post I was really tired..

anyway you can control the tape motor using pokes in basic and also you can listen to music wilst youre game loads..

I ment the ground had nothing to do with the load errors it was the idler play idler the whole time also the spring on the take up wheel made it eat tapes untill i snipped the sping in half and used only on half the spring this made it rewind and fast forward too.

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I ordered a NIB 410 off eBay and the motor turns but the belts are loose (the big one has a permanent "bend" in it). I took it part and removed the two belts I could easily access - boiled them, cooled, and sprayed with prestone belt restore (for car belts). It helped, the rewind/ff started working (barely) but the play/record doesn't seem to spin - though its trying. The eBay seller is an @ss and wouldn't take it back even though his post was misleading. Ordered a xc12 from Best - which works.

 

Anyways, long story short (too late!) - aside from that, it is in fantastic condition and I've done lost money on it. Soo, you wanna pay shipping +plus a minor bribe and it all yours. I live in Indiana.

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Sure - - I'll be up late really late tonight, you can give me a buzz. Or tomorrow whenever. Sorry Awace, it's first come first serve around here... and with orpheus I won't have to ship!

Thats ok there is a lot of places you can get belts try youre local TURNTABLE supply house also the play idler is the main problem being thats its just a hose washer

I used a #6 sink diverter hose washer it worked like a charm then the take up wheel inside it there is a spring snip it in half and pick one and put it back in then it should rewind and fast forward..

this place should have both belts not all three but at least both the main one and the rewind/fastforward one you would need

http://www.turntableneedles.com/

if you replace the play idler and shorten the spring in the take up reel and replace belts it should record and load like new it might rattle when rewinding and fastforwording cause the rewind/fastforward idler would be dented althogh this does not affect rewinding or fastforwording as LONG as the spring in the take up wheel next to the felt is not to long otherwise its to tight and it cant rewind the take up wheel is just subposed to be weak enough to not cause rippling in the take up you know like on a old movie when you hold the take up reel it kind of buckles then fixes it self WHELL take the take up wheel apart the red pin comes out then the spring inside is way to long and to strong and wont let it rewind or fast forward so i just snipped more than half off then replaced it leaving the snipped peice out then it rewinded better than factory .. After belts replaced and NEW hose washer it plays like new I actually loaded SPANISH tape ......

I hope you both have luck.. JUST REMEMBER

 

when taking the play mech head mech off the platen DONOT BREAK THE LITTLE LIP THING HOLDING IT ON ON THE RIGHT SIDE AS THIS plastic is not remeltable I broke one and could not fix it it kind of comes off at a angle if you do it right you might have to push against the springs to get it in w out snapping the l shaped lip thing off but if you get it back in w out snapping it off you will be ok otherwise youre are SOL (sh_t OUT OF LUCK) I had to use the non new one for parts as the other one already was snapped I kept every thing on the new one new exept that part all the red pins and plastic are new exept the main plastic part cause i snapped the lip thing the head mech slides into off I reiterate DO NOT BREAK the l shaped thing holding the head mech off its to easy to just think ok ill just snap it out nO it breaks I have done this 3 times now and finnally learned its better to do it slow and mathodicly than to break it.. but when you relace the play idler and get it to load and snip the take up reel spring and for the 1st time from the factory it rewinds better than new you are so exited..

PS the counter can use just a normal super small rubber binder and work just fine.. thanks for letting me know I do have two working unints the other one has the broken head holder and the main wheel snapped off the shaft too BE CAREFULL ABOUT THAT TOO... otherwise the pinch roller was MINT the whole thing was mint the cord was even stuck to the styrophome and the box was somewhat new I am ok with it having parts from the old one but next time ill be more carefull and i dont want anyone else having this problem..

ALSO I ALSO AM INTERESTED IN TAPES with data on them to load to atr files...

as i know my tape player works now! also BEFORE I FORGET SINCE I RIPPED THE WHOLE THING APART AND NOW KNOW EXACTLY HOW THEY WORK please PUSH PLAY AND PAUSE AT THE SAME TIME this means push play then engage the pause mech if it has one I would assume if it did not have a pause mech then there would be no way to store it w out doing damamge to the idlers!!! but at least if it has pause you can disengage these idlers I only wish i could find a rewind idler..

thanks.

I was only stating there was no 410 recorder talk at least there is talk again... and I did find a tape w some data on it but it had to be erased cause it was recorded when the data recorder was bad before i knew about the idler the idea came to me when I was shopping for a VCR and remembered hmm idlers are just hose washers.. this is when i got a SONY vcr with 1 minnute rewind and gears not idlers I wish these were like that.....

anyway I love loading data from a cassette its cool as you can HEAR IT LOAD..

I tried to fix my boom box sanyo w no luck more than 26 wires hold the tape mech in I had to unsolder and just said screw it and gave up way way to mutch work it was easyer fixing a atari tape recorder than the boombox ..

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Sure - - I'll be up late really late tonight, you can give me a buzz. Or tomorrow whenever. Sorry Awace, it's first come first serve around here... and with orpheus I won't have to ship!

Thats ok there is a lot of places you can get belts try youre local TURNTABLE supply house also the play idler is the main problem being thats its just a hose washer

I used a #6 sink diverter hose washer it worked like a charm then the take up wheel inside it there is a spring snip it in half and pick one and put it back in then it should rewind and fast forward..

this place should have both belts not all three but at least both the main one and the rewind/fastforward one you would need

http://www.turntableneedles.com/

if you replace the play idler and shorten the spring in the take up reel and replace belts it should record and load like new it might rattle when rewinding and fastforwording cause the rewind/fastforward idler would be dented althogh this does not affect rewinding or fastforwording as LONG as the spring in the take up wheel next to the felt is not to long otherwise its to tight and it cant rewind the take up wheel is just subposed to be weak enough to not cause rippling in the take up you know like on a old movie when you hold the take up reel it kind of buckles then fixes it self WHELL take the take up wheel apart the red pin comes out then the spring inside is way to long and to strong and wont let it rewind or fast forward so i just snipped more than half off then replaced it leaving the snipped peice out then it rewinded better than factory .. After belts replaced and NEW hose washer it plays like new I actually loaded SPANISH tape ......

I hope you both have luck.. JUST REMEMBER

 

when taking the play mech head mech off the platen DONOT BREAK THE LITTLE LIP THING HOLDING IT ON ON THE RIGHT SIDE AS THIS plastic is not remeltable I broke one and could not fix it it kind of comes off at a angle if you do it right you might have to push against the springs to get it in w out snapping the l shaped lip thing off but if you get it back in w out snapping it off you will be ok otherwise youre are SOL (sh_t OUT OF LUCK) I had to use the non new one for parts as the other one already was snapped I kept every thing on the new one new exept that part all the red pins and plastic are new exept the main plastic part cause i snapped the lip thing the head mech slides into off I reiterate DO NOT BREAK the l shaped thing holding the head mech off its to easy to just think ok ill just snap it out nO it breaks I have done this 3 times now and finnally learned its better to do it slow and mathodicly than to break it.. but when you relace the play idler and get it to load and snip the take up reel spring and for the 1st time from the factory it rewinds better than new you are so exited..

PS the counter can use just a normal super small rubber binder and work just fine.. thanks for letting me know I do have two working unints the other one has the broken head holder and the main wheel snapped off the shaft too BE CAREFULL ABOUT THAT TOO... otherwise the pinch roller was MINT the whole thing was mint the cord was even stuck to the styrophome and the box was somewhat new I am ok with it having parts from the old one but next time ill be more carefull and i dont want anyone else having this problem..

ALSO I ALSO AM INTERESTED IN TAPES with data on them to load to atr files...

as i know my tape player works now! also BEFORE I FORGET SINCE I RIPPED THE WHOLE THING APART AND NOW KNOW EXACTLY HOW THEY WORK please PUSH PLAY AND PAUSE AT THE SAME TIME this means push play then engage the pause mech if it has one I would assume if it did not have a pause mech then there would be no way to store it w out doing damamge to the idlers!!! but at least if it has pause you can disengage these idlers I only wish i could find a rewind idler..

thanks.

I was only stating there was no 410 recorder talk at least there is talk again... and I did find a tape w some data on it but it had to be erased cause it was recorded when the data recorder was bad before i knew about the idler the idea came to me when I was shopping for a VCR and remembered hmm idlers are just hose washers.. this is when i got a SONY vcr with 1 minnute rewind and gears not idlers I wish these were like that.....

anyway I love loading data from a cassette its cool as you can HEAR IT LOAD..

I tried to fix my boom box sanyo w no luck more than 26 wires hold the tape mech in I had to unsolder and just said screw it and gave up way way to mutch work it was easyer fixing a atari tape recorder than the boombox ..

My eyes! The goggles, they do nothing!

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  • 4 months later...

Hi all,

 

I bumped this old thread, because I want to now if anybody have SUCCESSFULLY change the fourth belt (for rewind) in an Atari 410?

 

- This belt is not listed in the BEST / B&C Catalogues

- As read in this thread, the most users didn´t know there was four belts :-)

- I haven´t found a message like "YES, I DID IT" or so.

 

Because I have the same problem with an Atari 410, any concrete informations where to buy this "rewind-belt" and how to disassemble it without breaking the plastics are very appreciated.

 

And second: Anybody any idea how to fix this? See the red circle marking in the picture below. I think the Atari 410 wasn´t used for 20 years, so the rubber has been bagged by the capstan. So "PLAY" doesn´t work - the wheel turns only until this marking passes the capstan, then it stand still.

 

Thanks. Jurgen.

 

post-15670-0-47831500-1350217906_thumb.jpg

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I have a belt I just purchased, just need to fit it and see if I measured correctly, I DO know how to fit it, there is a small plastic circular piece that you have to VERY carefully twist 45 degrees and pull up. The problem is it is very fragile with age and if you are not careful you can crack it (and god knows where you would get a replacement)

 

When I fit this belt in the next few days I will take pictures.

 

As for your other issue, I have no idea, try sending that picture to Best Electronics and see if they offer a replacement part?

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Hi all,

 

I bumped this old thread, because I want to now if anybody have SUCCESSFULLY change the fourth belt (for rewind) in an Atari 410?

 

- This belt is not listed in the BEST / B&C Catalogues

- As read in this thread, the most users didn´t know there was four belts :-)

- I haven´t found a message like "YES, I DID IT" or so.

 

Because I have the same problem with an Atari 410, any concrete informations where to buy this "rewind-belt" and how to disassemble it without breaking the plastics are very appreciated.

 

And second: Anybody any idea how to fix this? See the red circle marking in the picture below. I think the Atari 410 wasn´t used for 20 years, so the rubber has been bagged by the capstan. So "PLAY" doesn´t work - the wheel turns only until this marking passes the capstan, then it stand still.

 

Thanks. Jurgen.

 

post-15670-0-47831500-1350217906_thumb.jpg

Awace suggests using a #6 sink diverter hose washer to replace the damaged play idler tyre, while it works I would think a replacement made for use in tape decks/VCRs would probably be longer lasting and more reliable. They should be available from shops doing tape deck/VCR repair, if you can't find any locally the following link is the first that came up on a google search for 'vcr idler tyre": http://www.smcelectr...com/vcridt.htm.

 

I did discover how to disassemble the 410 to change the rewind belt, but when trying to reassemble it I broke some parts. It was for this reason that I never posted the information.

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Does anyone know a supplier and part number for new replacement belts for the 1010?

 

I know Best/B&C probably have them, but they'll be new old stock... rubber belts degrade with age, so I'm looking for some made this year :)

 

The 1010 has two belts, one of which looks like it's only for the tape counter, and the other's for the tape transport. Both of mine have disintegrated almost back to a state of primordial ooze...

 

I've got a catalog for a supplier that "might" have the right size, and if nobody knows off-hand what to get, I'll find out eventually and post it here.

 

While on the subject... I don't have a 410 or XC12, are they belt-driven too?

 

Yes

Turntableneedles.com

 

an AVCR Electronics site

1335 NW 9th St.

Corvallis, OR 97330-4508 US

1-866-235-8728

 

SB04.7 Square, Belt Orbicular 4.76 inch

SBS2.4 Square, Small 2.4 inch

choose Atari 410 parts

for the counter just get a package of small rubberbinders for hair or the BIG bag as the counter has no tention.

 

Attention EVERYONE push engage pause the push play to keep the rewind/fastforward idler from denting more! when storing !!!!!!!!!!.

Also when taking apart donot break the spindle from the flywheel or you will need to reglue it back..

ALso donot break the head mech off the platen the small lip thing is perminant and wont glue back it might epoxy! .

Update Just Fixed my already Fixed Tape Recorder replaced the ideler play idler and snipped half the taKE up reel spring off then replaced now it rewinds with the rattle cause of the rewind/ff idler dent but rewinds and fast forwards UNLIKE WHEN IT WAS NEW it now works.. this is a FACTORY

DEFECT they used to long of a spring for the take up wheel and if you snip it in half then strech back it will be slightly less taught and will rewind! the play idler is a #6 sink hose diverter witch you can get from ACE hardware in the Drawers ... bring whole play idler mech wheel with to get exact size the new one will be bigger and have tobe fenagled in with a small scredriver then roll on table to get it seated it will be bigger and leave black marks as its real rubber! ...

then

 

Yesterday I rammed the tape head to the left wilst listning to poke 54018,60 and the introduction to programming till i heard the VOICE LOUDER than it was now the lock tight is loose but who cares I just with screw driver make the head adjustment w door open and tape under door w out ruineing the door.. now it SAVES loads

csave's and CLOADS its owns files!.

if you want music on the tape figure out witch one has audio witch one has data then before you csave data record onto a blank tape the music 1st somehow in the introduction to programming when it loads there is a way to turn down the data channel and leave the audio.

I dont care as I am listning to VAN HALEN dance the night away wilst loading and dont care about the data channel WITCH BY THE WAY USED TO BE WAY LOUDER When i was a kid!! I wonder if that autoreverse head i reaplced worked better!..on the older Recorder.

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check my above link .

also youhave to take the whole mech off w out breking the lip thing to replace all the belts! GOOD LUCK.

the play mech snaps back and forth but comes out at a angle and slightly lifting but goes from the left to the right but the right side down 1st and you have to to something to the underneeth with the flywheel its really hard to do you need good hand eye cworadanation also be awake when doing it as I broke 2 tape head mechs off the main base on two machines before I learned not to break it..

 

 

a nother

Quote

Because I have the same problem with an Atari 410, any concrete informations where to buy this "rewind-belt" and how to disassemble it without breaking the plastics are very appreciated.

Quote

whell

I did replace the rewind belt too but since I had the SUPER NEW EBAY tape player I broke same way the lip thing but this was the 2nd time I had broke one as I haVE HAD 4 of these things I got one at good will 20 years ago and did the same thing to my original one! but now I figured out how to not break it you have to take the whole thing apart unsolder whole mech remove it from case then remove every screw holding the flywheel on then you have to fenagle the head mech forward by pushing pause then moving it forward against it self then left the left side out with out breaking the lip thing I think there is a HOLE to allow this but you still have to lift the left side out 1st it takes practice and when reinserting this is the tricky part you dont think its going to go back then you snap it back then it just goes into place..

also the #6 sink diverter HOSE washer is the SAME rubber as the VCR idlers I have used rubber in vcd idlers and they work better the thing is you have to have the SAME size...

 

I will keep in mind the http://www.smcelectr...com/vcridt.htm site too since they might have more idelrs than the hardware store's sink department..

I also found a rubber manafacture witch will remanafacture the rewind idler but havent looked into it mutch as it still rewinds with the rattle..

as long as the belts are new and the play idler and the take up wheel spring is shorter it will work and the tape head must be in the correct psotition to hear the data I adjusted it to a atari tape intoroduction to programming cause it talks and loads like spanish when i HEARD the talking LOUD and clear It loaded the data and also WAS ABLE TO CSAVE AND re cload its own data!...

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You can remove the peice the little white peice in picture

http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=262073

then you wont have to worry about breaking it BUT not all have the screw

alsoi make shure you snip some of the take up wheel spring off so its not so tight making it more free to move so it can take up when playing or rewinding .. if its not long enogh after snipping some of it off just strech it a little ! . thats all i know now other than after adjusting the head mech I was able to record and play.

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