Redb3ard Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 (edited) Someone on irc://irc.eskimo.com/atari got out the calipers and took some measurements for me. If anyone would like to take a look and catch any mistakes, I'd appreciate it. Even those of us without precise measuring tools could catch gross errors. The "B" length would largely be determined by "A", since it would just be that plus whatever extra you need to add margin past hex nut holes. "A" itself should be determined by placing the holes wide enough that even if hex nuts are installed (and they wouldn't need to be) they won't block older style cables. "I" is probably going to be some standard setback for pcb mount dsubs, which if I remember is 0.59" inches. Other lengths not shown yet, include the length of the pins themselves. Are their ends flush with the plastic shroud? Did I understand the other guy's scribbled diagram correctly, that this depth (of the plastic shroud) if 7mm (which seems about right, if they're spaced on 3mm)? Does anyone have any objections if the plastic shroud is ditched for a crimped metal shield, like regular dsub connectors use? Or if the shield extends past the edge of the pcb, rather than being flush with it? Will a metal shield/shroud interfere with the normal operation of cables somehow (grounding things that shouldn't be) ? What about the "fingers" on the outside of an old cable, will those be a problem somehow? Any and all comments welcome. Especially harsh criticism. Also, on a similar note: Does anyone have a preference for female plugs? I've always liked the solder cup variety, rather than the crimp-type. sioport.pdf Edited June 8, 2007 by Redb3ard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rybags Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 G = wrong. There may well be 3mm actual gap between pins but the measurement between pin centres is a fraction of the value as I described previously (1/6th of 7/8ths inch IIRC). Or, 1/6th of about 21.5 mm. This is a rare case where I'd recommend you work with inches on the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Larry Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 Someone on irc://irc.eskimo.com/atari got out the calipers and took some measurements for me. If anyone would like to take a look and catch any mistakes, I'd appreciate it. Even those of us without precise measuring tools could catch gross errors. (snip...) sioport.pdf Nice. Did you consider labeling the pins (at least 1 and 13)? -Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redb3ard Posted June 9, 2007 Author Share Posted June 9, 2007 Someone on irc://irc.eskimo.com/atari got out the calipers and took some measurements for me. If anyone would like to take a look and catch any mistakes, I'd appreciate it. Even those of us without precise measuring tools could catch gross errors. (snip...) sioport.pdf Nice. Did you consider labeling the pins (at least 1 and 13)? -Larry I can, of course. Not so important for those I'm sending it to to get a quote. I also need to check the diameter of the pins somehow, since it looks like they may not be the same as db9/25. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Larry Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 FWIW -- I've looked at the drawings (same in both threads, I presume). Perhaps I've missed it, but I didn't see the length or diameter of the pins, nor any specification of taper/draft at the ends of the pins, nor any specification on the corner radii of the "shroud". I would think you'd need those, although my experience is in using automotive parts drawings, which might be different than what you need for these. -Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krupkaj Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 I just measured that. The diameter of the pins is 1mm and lenght of pins inside the connector is 11mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redb3ard Posted June 17, 2007 Author Share Posted June 17, 2007 FWIW -- I've looked at the drawings (same in both threads, I presume). Perhaps I've missed it, but I didn't see the length or diameter of the pins, nor any specification of taper/draft at the ends of the pins, nor any specification on the corner radii of the "shroud". I would think you'd need those, although my experience is in using automotive parts drawings, which might be different than what you need for these.-Larry All true. It's a work in progress, of course. The diameter of the pins was supposedly 1.1mm from a friend, and another person here has replied that they are 1mm in diameter. The rest of the measurements are still up in the air. Not sure how much it matters though, I've yet to find a place that will do less than 50,000 parts at a time, and even at those quantities they are quite steep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redb3ard Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share Posted June 18, 2007 I just measured that. The diameter of the pins is 1mm and lenght of pins inside the connector is 11mm Crazybonz measured the pin diameter as 1.1mm with digital calipers. I'm going to assume you had something less accurate, but still view your measurement as confirmation of his. Also, if you're correct about the pin length being 11mm, then his measurement of the depth of the plastic shroud being 7mm is clearly incorrect. I'm putting your measurement of 11mm down as correct for now. Really, there should only need be a few more measurements for this to be accurate. Placement of the pins on the pcb side should probably match the originals insofar as the "I" distance should be equal to the distance of the pins on the pcb to the pcb's edge. This means a new part would jut out over the edge of the pcb, similar to how a regular dsub connector does. Also, the unlettered plastic lock tabs shown in the diagram should match the placement and diameter of the attachment points on the original part (though I believe on the original they are just holes through which a nut and bolt are placed? Or is it riveted?). The corner radii of the trapezoid shield... if anything, new parts could overcompensate, have a smaller radius (at least for the male), and they'd still fit. I'm just not sure how anyone could measure it accurately anyway. Oh, and the bottom edge of the trapezoid, is there any reason why that couldn't be flush with the top of the pcb (which in this one regard would make it less like a proper dsub, rather than more) ? Doing so makes the part not quite as tall, which could be helpful. Say, if someone ever got it in their heads to make an SIO PCI card. Latest version, 6-18-07: sioport.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redb3ard Posted June 30, 2007 Author Share Posted June 30, 2007 Does anyone have any objections if the plastic shroud is ditched for a crimped metal shield, like regular dsub connectors use? Or if the shield extends past the edge of the pcb, rather than being flush with it? Will a metal shield/shroud interfere with the normal operation of cables somehow (grounding things that shouldn't be) ?sioport.pdf Mostly for curiosity's sake. Way back when, there was an uncommon d-sub type connector, the dd-50. This connector was nearly 3 inches wide, had 50 pins in 3 rows, and the height of the metal shield was taller than all the ones that only had 2 rows of various pin count. I bought one for a buck at Fry's last week. Broke all the pins out of it. (Male) So now it's just the male metal shroud. It is obviously wider than the SIO. Urchlay loaned me a cable briefly, we tried to fit it in... and the cable fits in perfectly snug. The height is the same as the SIO. Better yet, the angle and corner rounding either match, or are close enough. So, only two dimensions are wrong for the shield... the width, and the depth (the female plug should fit in more deeply). It's not like one can be modified. The pin spacing is nowhere close, even if you were to break out extra pins. It's unlikely that another similar part is made but with less pins. But, still potentially useful. If only I could find mechanical specs for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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