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Zookeeper restoration project


AtariMan1976

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Been working on trying to get this game fully restored but it's been very hard for me. The whole thing was painted black on the front and sides but i'm managing to remove it all. I still need boards, marquee, control panel and bezel. here are some before and after pics of how it's going so far. If anybody can lead me in the right direction as to what to do and where to get what i need, please let me know. I'm trying to save this thing and its been near impossible to find anything for it.

 

Edit: Well i tried posting a before picture but i guess its too big to upload but u can imagine this whole thing being painted black and what a pian it is to remove it. :(

Edited by AtariMan1976
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http://quarterarcade.com/Game.aspx/6426

http://quarterarcade.com/Game.aspx/6809

 

For the rest, post a WTB message on rec.games.video.arcade.collecting with groups.google.com and keep an eye on eBay.

thanks. had already found this awhile back and so far their the only ones that has anything. unfortunately, money is tight right now and i don't know when i'll be able to get anything for this.

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Its a fairly uncommon game and you are on a budget. Those two don't always go hand in hand (its the reason my Star Wars cockpit does not have the right 25 inch monitor, I feel your pain!).

 

Anthony at Quarterarcade is a great source. If he has those two pieces, maybe you could get him to hold them for you or offer to put some money down on them until you get the rest. The marquee will be the easiest of the pieces to find, as I find folks kept boxes of them and then sell them in bulk at auctions. You'll most certainly find one somewhere. The bezel and control panel (with a decent overlay it appears) are another story.

 

Dont forget the power supply issue on that board. You have to build a delay circuit to run a standard switching power supply. If you need, I can find the schematics. Its a stupid-easy thing to build, but you have to have it unless you manage to run an original power supply in the bottom :)!

 

Good luck, great work on the black paint removal. Done that on a Robotron, Defender (already black but still), Galaxian (not worth my time on that one!) and some random others in small sections (curiousity got the better of me). Cab looks great.

 

 

Cassidy

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Its a fairly uncommon game and you are on a budget. Those two don't always go hand in hand (its the reason my Star Wars cockpit does not have the right 25 inch monitor, I feel your pain!).

 

Anthony at Quarterarcade is a great source. If he has those two pieces, maybe you could get him to hold them for you or offer to put some money down on them until you get the rest. The marquee will be the easiest of the pieces to find, as I find folks kept boxes of them and then sell them in bulk at auctions. You'll most certainly find one somewhere. The bezel and control panel (with a decent overlay it appears) are another story.

 

Dont forget the power supply issue on that board. You have to build a delay circuit to run a standard switching power supply. If you need, I can find the schematics. Its a stupid-easy thing to build, but you have to have it unless you manage to run an original power supply in the bottom :)!

 

Good luck, great work on the black paint removal. Done that on a Robotron, Defender (already black but still), Galaxian (not worth my time on that one!) and some random others in small sections (curiousity got the better of me). Cab looks great.

 

 

Cassidy

Thank you. Anything you can find out for me is greatly appreciated. :) |Also, it still has the original power supply, which was actually running about 2 years ago. Maybe you could put a word in for me with Anthony. If he could hold those 2 items, i'd be so greatful as i desperately need them but i'm afraid to ask someone to do such a thing for me. |Also maybe you could see if he can find the other parts i need.

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Awesome! I love seeing people bringing classic games back from the dead. Zookeeper is one of my favorites. I wish the one @ Funspot had the original joystick. The one they have on there is weird (microswitch I think).

 

Great project!!!

 

And to the fella w/ the SW cockpit... I'm super jealous. Someday, SOMEDAY :)

Does yours have the frensel lens in it?

 

EDIT: Not trying to hijack the thread, I just got excited when I saw the post title and project details. Feel free to ignore me. :)

 

~telengard

Edited by telengard
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Awesome! I love seeing people bringing classic games back from the dead. Zookeeper is one of my favorites. I wish the one @ Funspot had the original joystick. The one they have on there is weird (microswitch I think).

 

Great project!!!

 

And to the fella w/ the SW cockpit... I'm super jealous. Someday, SOMEDAY :)

Does yours have the frensel lens in it?

 

EDIT: Not trying to hijack the thread, I just got excited when I saw the post title and project details. Feel free to ignore me. :)

 

~telengard

No need to apoligize. thats why this post is here. to share with others that have the same interest as i do. This has needed everything. Whoever had this converted it to Taito's U.S. Classic. :ponder: Guess they thought they were doing a good thing. :ponder: Anyway, it was running when i aquired it for free back in 2005. Took all the un-original stuff out and had to turn the monitor around the way its supposed tobe because they had it vertical for the golf game. stripped down cleaning the paint off. And hopefully soon replace the bezel and control panel. Will eventually get the marquee and boards for this as well. It still has the original power supply. i'll post new pics when there are new changes to this.

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You did a great job removing the paint. Lucky it looks so good underneath.

Yes, thank you, i am lucky. It was a thick flake type paint to it kinda picks off. I don't know what they were thinking when they did this to it. Anyway, i am gonna keep working on this till it's completely restored. Keep an eye on this thread as i will be updating regularly.

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Let me know if you need any pictures of the insides of mine to help figure out where things go. Here's mine:

 

http://www.o-sd.com/arcadecollecting/forum...php?topic=119.0

 

The wiring for Zookeeper can be confusing because it's easy to plug the wrong connector in the wrong spot without looking at an existing one. I found this out the hard way. :)

 

I also wrote a patch for Zoo Keeper to get rid of the coin processor board so if you get a boardset with a bad or missing coin processor, you can get around that. They tend to go bad anyway.

Edited by djpubba
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Let me know if you need any pictures of the insides of mine to help figure out where things go.

 

http://www.o-sd.com/arcadecollecting/forum...php?topic=119.0

 

The wiring for Zookeeper can be confusing because it's easy to plug the wrong connector in the wrong spot without looking at an existing one. I found this out the hard way. :)

 

I also wrote a patch for Zoo Keeper to get rid of the coin processor board so if you get a boardset with a bad or missing coin processor, you can get around that. They tend to go bad anyway.

Thats exactly what i've been looking for is inside pics of the cabinet. please get me as many as you can so i can compare. also, it still has th original power supply but i don't know how good it is. one fuse is blown and two are missing as are the caps that screw over the fuses. How to i replace the caps and how do i test this power supply out?

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Okay, I'll take some pics of the harness and where the PCB is mounted. What else do you need to see?

 

I've seen those fuse caps on a lot of my games, so they gotta be common parts. You could google around for them or find someone with a dead cabinet that will just mail you the caps for postage. There are a lot of nice people on rec.games.video.arcade.collecting would probably do that for you, maybe. Radio Shack might even have them. I've never had to find them so I can't say for sure.

 

For testing, the original power supply has LEDs that come on when the voltages are good. So to test it, just turn it on and if the LEDs all come on, it's probably working. If one is off, it says right next to the LED which voltage it is for.

 

Mine was missing the +5v (the LED was off) and I didn't have any spare parts handy, so I just swapped in a PC power supply I had handy, which has all the right voltages and the same kind of reset circuit it needs. One caveat to doing that is that you want to find an older style supply with a single manual on/off switch on it (commonly called "PC-AT"). The newer ones connect to the PC motherboard for their on/off signal (those are called "PC-ATX"). It's also nice if you do it in a way that doesn't require cutting an original harness. If you buy a $15 crimping tool and the right connectors, you can pull it off without destroying a harness. That way you can go back to an original power supply if you want to be 100% original some day.

 

There is some info about how to do the PC power supply thing on my site (arcadecollecting.com) in the tech section.

Edited by djpubba
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First pic attached. The coin processor is the little board on the lower right off the metal plate. I bypassed mine (which died) so it's not wired like an original would be.

 

LMK what else.

Ok great, that helps me some but i'll also need where the wires come off from the marquee lights, control panel, and coin door as well as what i think (if i remember right) 3 lights under the bezel for play instructions. do u have a pic of the original setup with an original power suppy or did u mod yours?

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First pic attached. The coin processor is the little board on the lower right off the metal plate. I bypassed mine (which died) so it's not wired like an original would be.

 

LMK what else.

Ok great, that helps me some but i'll also need where the wires come off from the marquee lights, control panel, and coin door as well as what i think (if i remember right) 3 lights under the bezel for play instructions. do u have a pic of the original setup with an original power suppy or did u mod yours?

 

I modded mine.

 

Your additional picture requests will have to be put on a back burner until I have time to actually disassemble my game for pictures. Might be a spell, but go ahead and hollar if you're in danger of working on those sections any time soon.

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First pic attached. The coin processor is the little board on the lower right off the metal plate. I bypassed mine (which died) so it's not wired like an original would be.

 

LMK what else.

Ok great, that helps me some but i'll also need where the wires come off from the marquee lights, control panel, and coin door as well as what i think (if i remember right) 3 lights under the bezel for play instructions. do u have a pic of the original setup with an original power suppy or did u mod yours?

 

I modded mine.

 

Your additional picture requests will have to be put on a back burner until I have time to actually disassemble my game for pictures. Might be a spell, but go ahead and hollar if you're in danger of working on those sections any time soon.

Not a problem. most of it is gonna be awhile. Next couple of days, i'll probably clean up the original power supply and test it.

Edited by AtariMan1976
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Ok great, that helps me some but i'll also need where the wires come off from the marquee lights, control panel, and coin door as well as what i think (if i remember right) 3 lights under the bezel for play instructions. do u have a pic of the original setup with an original power suppy or did u mod yours?

 

That should all be in the manual. Do you have that pdf file? The schematics should tell you where coin door lights, reset/tilt switch, etc is all wired. Chances are, if your harness is there they simply just bypassed that stuff so it should all still be there.

 

IIRC the Taito games all used 6 volt socketed marquee lights like a pinball backglass. They are available in bulk from any auto parts distributor (not Pep Boys) or any number of places online. I think its bulb 47? Don't quote me, its been years!

 

Bypassing that coin board is GREAT news for you too. DJP is really helping you out on that one. I would suggest verifying all of your voltages with a voltmeter before you ever hook a board up to that power supply. Each one of the plastic wheels is a trim pot for a voltage, 5, -5, 12 and -12 on that power supply. Theoretically, they should taper the voltage from say 4 volts to 6 on the 5 volt in a linear fashion (small adjustment should change the voltage a small amount). Obviously the others would be about a volt or two in either direction of their intended output. Unfortunately, the pots are old and dirty. I blew a Wild Western board trying to tune while the game was on and the board plugged in. 5 volts spiked up to like 8 and took out some chips. PITA to fix and I had to get help. If I had adjusted them to say 5.2 and maybe 12.5 without the load of the board, I would probably have been fine. I am sure an electronics teacher would crap if they heard me suggest that but its what I have done and it works. I know, its not adjusted under load, but its a place to start. Better than blowing a hard to find board! I have done that on a Black Widow too, made me sick that it happened. In other words, I don't trust original power supplies unless I have "bench" tested them (in your case empty cabinet tested them) first.

 

Call Anthony up, seriously. He is a great guy and might be able to help you find the rest. Tell him you are looking to buy it all at once in a few months and see if he can get it all together for you. That would be a best bet but also expensive. Try coinopwarehouse.com and email Lloyd too. Not going to be cheap but if its on earth, he can find it...

 

Cassidy

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Ok great, that helps me some but i'll also need where the wires come off from the marquee lights, control panel, and coin door as well as what i think (if i remember right) 3 lights under the bezel for play instructions. do u have a pic of the original setup with an original power suppy or did u mod yours?

 

That should all be in the manual. Do you have that pdf file? The schematics should tell you where coin door lights, reset/tilt switch, etc is all wired. Chances are, if your harness is there they simply just bypassed that stuff so it should all still be there.

 

IIRC the Taito games all used 6 volt socketed marquee lights like a pinball backglass. They are available in bulk from any auto parts distributor (not Pep Boys) or any number of places online. I think its bulb 47? Don't quote me, its been years!

 

Bypassing that coin board is GREAT news for you too. DJP is really helping you out on that one. I would suggest verifying all of your voltages with a voltmeter before you ever hook a board up to that power supply. Each one of the plastic wheels is a trim pot for a voltage, 5, -5, 12 and -12 on that power supply. Theoretically, they should taper the voltage from say 4 volts to 6 on the 5 volt in a linear fashion (small adjustment should change the voltage a small amount). Obviously the others would be about a volt or two in either direction of their intended output. Unfortunately, the pots are old and dirty. I blew a Wild Western board trying to tune while the game was on and the board plugged in. 5 volts spiked up to like 8 and took out some chips. PITA to fix and I had to get help. If I had adjusted them to say 5.2 and maybe 12.5 without the load of the board, I would probably have been fine. I am sure an electronics teacher would crap if they heard me suggest that but its what I have done and it works. I know, its not adjusted under load, but its a place to start. Better than blowing a hard to find board! I have done that on a Black Widow too, made me sick that it happened. In other words, I don't trust original power supplies unless I have "bench" tested them (in your case empty cabinet tested them) first.

 

Call Anthony up, seriously. He is a great guy and might be able to help you find the rest. Tell him you are looking to buy it all at once in a few months and see if he can get it all together for you. That would be a best bet but also expensive. Try coinopwarehouse.com and email Lloyd too. Not going to be cheap but if its on earth, he can find it...

 

Cassidy

thanks for the help. Already been talking to Anthony. I'l try lloyd too.

Edited by AtariMan1976
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Good advice from Cassidy.

 

I am sure an electronics teacher would crap if they heard me suggest that but its what I have done and it works. I know, its not adjusted under load, but its a place to start.

 

I'm no expert either, but I've heard that these Taito supplies are linear and safe to run with no load. The switching power supplies like in most JAMMA cabs are the ones that will smoke with no load. I usually test them with no load anyway and only keep them on for a second or two and I haven't smoked any that way so far (knock on wood).

Edited by djpubba
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Wow, you did a really nice job cleaning that up :)

Wow, thank you, i never thoughti would get so mush praise and response to this. At first i was discouraged but i continued on and more and more as time goes by, at looks like i'll be getting everything i need and it's turning out better than i thought. I just want to do like everyone else would and preserve a piece of history. Once this one is done, i'll be looking to do another and eventually, i will be building one from the ground up, too. I already have the 25" monitor for this which will be a multi fight game machine with games like king of fighters and street fighter II.

Edited by AtariMan1976
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here are picks from tonight after i repaired the back door lock (not pictured) and cleaned the power supply so you can tell what it is. I also removed all the non-original wiring/jamma etc. In the pics are details which i question. Not sure what some things are and where they go and whats missing etc.

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