Prodos8 Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 I stupidly designed the last pcb in a format that the company I am sending it to couldn't read it So heres V1.1 Final board size shrunk down to 55mm x 35mm. Sending it off to get some protos then I will order a 100 or so if they turn out right. Your new layout looks really cool! But, I'm still gonna keep the presure on you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 (edited) Your new layout looks really cool! But, I'm still gonna keep the presure on you. A little competition is always a good thing btw you need to ground luma 0 (pin 11) when the board is in 2600 mode. Edited October 8, 2007 by Longhorn Engineer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breakpack Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 btw you need to ground luma 0 (pin 11) when the board is in 2600 mode. Or do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prodos8 Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Your new layout looks really cool! But, I'm still gonna keep the presure on you. A little competition is always a good thing btw you need to ground luma 0 (pin 11) when the board is in 2600 mode. Hook 'em horns dude. I graduated from UT in '93. I lived in Jester and Prather dorms at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Hook 'em horns dude. I graduated from UT in '93. I lived in Jester and Prather dorms at the time. Living in Jester right now. Moving off campus next year tho. Or do you? Well It will work but it might have some interference. I never tried it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jess Ragan Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 I stupidly designed the last pcb in a format that the company I am sending it to couldn't read it So heres V1.1 Final board size shrunk down to 55mm x 35mm. Sending it off to get some protos then I will order a 100 or so if they turn out right. Your new layout looks really cool! But, I'm still gonna keep the presure on you. Hey, as long as you two are putting pressure on 8-Bit Domain, I'm all for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prodos8 Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 (edited) I stupidly designed the last pcb in a format that the company I am sending it to couldn't read it So heres V1.1 Final board size shrunk down to 55mm x 35mm. Sending it off to get some protos then I will order a 100 or so if they turn out right. Your new layout looks really cool! But, I'm still gonna keep the presure on you. Hey, as long as you two are putting pressure on 8-Bit Domain, I'm all for it! Pooh! on that. Just kidding. Edited October 9, 2007 by Prodos8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Little update. I had a buddy of mine look over the pcb and compared it with the breadboards to make sure the pcb where correct. I changed it up a bit and added headers to the inputs and outputs. I should be getting the boards in 16 or so days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 (edited) opps double post* Edited October 9, 2007 by Longhorn Engineer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarlboroMan Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 If the price is reasonable, you can put me down for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 Target Price is set for $35 for a self install unit which will have installation instructions and color coded wiring. Also a templete for the hookups will be included (where to drill). It will cost $50 for me to install them in your Atari if you don't have any soldering knowledge at all. If you can solder a wire to another wire you can install the kit. No desoldering is required and the mods work on non socketed chips for maximum compatibility. You do have to specify which version (2600/5200/7800) you want however. I ordered the boards tonight from pcbcart.com. I have heard that they are pretty reliable and cheap. 75 boards for $115 shipped aint to bad. I should get them in 14 days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellis Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 Hi folks. Some time ago I did the composite video mod for my 2600, and today I finally got around to attempting the 5200 AV mod as detailed in the FAQ. I am pretty familiar with this type of project, but I find myself perplexed. My problem is that I am only getting a black and white display. Sounds like an easy answer, right? There's obviously a problem with the chroma circuit. However, I've checked this thing over and over again, and I can find nothing wrong with it. I have a line coming off of the specified resister on the mainboard, that goes through a 2K Ohm resistor, then a 1uF capacitor, and out to the TV. Perhaps the problem is that I am generating a composite signal by tying the chroma and luma lines together. But, by my understanding, that's what a composite signal is. There is one other thing I should mention. As I did with my 2600, I intend to run the composite video signal out the 5200's built-in RF cord. That way, you get a factory look to the implementation. In order to do that, I disconnected capacitor C48 which, as far as I can tell, simply delivers the RF modulator's signal to the center pin of the RF cord. By disconnecting this capacitor, I was able to replace the RF modulator's signal with the one coming off of my AV mod board. I suppose this cap could be important in contributing to the Chroma signal, but I just don't see how. So, I feel that the problem lies someplace else. I haven't yet tried hooking this configuration up to a S-video input, so maybe the composite circuit is to blame, but it seems like I should get *some* color, regardless. Can anyone help shed some light on this? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter_J64bit Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 I did the one on the FAQ and it works good for s-video, but not so goo for composite video. So, proceed at your own risk. WOW, that looks grate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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