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Is there any interest in a multi-OS switcher?


Larry

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I have two RamRod XL boards from Newell Industries, and I've always like them very much. It is quite simple to change one (or more) OS by just replacing a single 27128 eprom. Unfortunately, they are (AFAIK) no longer available new from any supplier. So I have been considering making a new run of the boards and assembling the sockets and switch to them. Maybe to be sold by me, maybe by someone else. I have already secured permission from Mr. Newell to do so. Perhaps even using a new run of the same board, although the original mfgr. of the pcb has been merged at least once, so the original pcb layout data may no longer exist.

 

But... this is 2008, and there are several good alternatives to this switcher.

 

First, one can burn four (or more) OS into a 27512 or larger eprom, and attach a switching arrangement. The downside to this is that it is somewhat more difficult to deal with the larger eproms and solder on the switches. Another idea might be to make a small board that the 27512 would plug into, then the switches would be soldered to the boards. That way, if you wanted to change the OS "package" only the eprom would need to be swapped.

 

There is also the AtariMax 32-in-1 flash OS. A very nice piece of work, but overkill, I think. I find that 3 OS cover 99.9% of my desires. I think 4 OS would take care of the other 0.1%. There are also a couple of issues that I find in using the 32-in-1. First, it can cause significant issues in some XL's and XE's when used with the Black Box. Yes, that can be dealt with, but it is another annoyance, and more jumper wires to install. It is NOT just a "Mexican CPU" issue. Second, it is quite difficult to update the OS's in the 32-in-1.

 

Recently, AtariMax has introduced two models of a flashable, internal MyIDE interface. I don't have one of these yet, as I'm waiting for some further info on how it fits/works in a 1200XL. But from what I know this seems like it would be the best of all possible OS changers. Want to switch? Just re-flash with a new OS. Takes a few seconds (from the AtariMax video), but that would not seem to be a big deal. Since I don't own one of these, there's quite a bit I don't know about the details of this system.

 

The MyIDE is a great interface, but it seems to me that just a stand-alone flashable OS would be a really nice product, and maybe the best of all (OS) worlds. It should also be much smaller than the MyIDE interface and presumably less costly to manufacture. Of course, there is no indication that Steve will be releasing one of these. And the issues with a Black Box may still be present. (?)

 

So what do you think -- is a 3-in-one RamRod-type switcher still a useful product, or has technology presented us with better options?

 

-Larry

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Bob Wooley's SmartOS kicks all of the above's arse.. 512k of NVRAM, adressed as both OS and LANGUAGE "ROMs", and soft switchable, soft rewritable... a whole lot faster than flash.. and you can store up to 32 16k images at a time.. AWESOME for experimaneting with custom OS modifications.. unlike Flash, NVRAM can be written one byte at a time, rather than reflashing the whole image..

 

Steve Carden has a board CADed up and ready for production (last I heard), and offers it at a reasonable price..

 

http://www.tcpipexpress.com

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ABBUC do this one,

Translation:

 

2 to 16 subject BIOS change over switch euro 16,90 Up to 16 different OS in a XL or a XE computer? At small expenditure no problem! This change over switch for 600XL, 800XL or XE, 1200XL and the 130XE is suitable. One must lift and by the EPROM replace only the existing OS from the base. With 3 rocker switches Options With BCD rotary switch (surcharge: Euro 2,00) Piece

 

link

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Bob Wooley's SmartOS kicks all of the above's arse.. 512k of NVRAM, adressed as both OS and LANGUAGE "ROMs", and soft switchable, soft rewritable... a whole lot faster than flash.. and you can store up to 32 16k images at a time.. AWESOME for experimaneting with custom OS modifications.. unlike Flash, NVRAM can be written one byte at a time, rather than reflashing the whole image..

 

Steve Carden has a board CADed up and ready for production (last I heard), and offers it at a reasonable price..

 

http://www.tcpipexpress.com

 

Thanks for the info/link. That sounds very interesting. Hopefully Steve C. will complete this project and provide some additional details. I know of another user that has been working on this for some time as a DIY project.

 

In the meantime, you would be an excellent person to ask a project question of...

 

I need to solder two 14-pin single-line (pin) headers to connect to a DIP-28 socket. I'm doing this on a small DATAK prototype board, and I've never attached header pins before. What's the best way -- pull down the little plastic spacer and anchor one end, or perhaps remove one pin and set it as the anchor then re-attach the plastic spacer bar (pushed down) so that all the other pins can be soldered? Or perhaps there is an easier method that I've not thought of?

 

Thanks,

Larry

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ABBUC do this one,

Translation:

 

2 to 16 subject BIOS change over switch euro 16,90 Up to 16 different OS in a XL or a XE computer? At small expenditure no problem! This change over switch for 600XL, 800XL or XE, 1200XL and the 130XE is suitable. One must lift and by the EPROM replace only the existing OS from the base. With 3 rocker switches Options With BCD rotary switch (surcharge: Euro 2,00) Piece

 

link

 

Thanks, Mimo.

 

Do you (or anyone here) have one of these? So this would go into a 2-Mb eprom (or smaller if you didn't need quite so many OS)? Got to admit that's plenty of OS choices.

 

That would probably end up at around $35-40 depending on the shipping charges.

 

-Larry

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ABBUC do this one,

Translation:

 

2 to 16 subject BIOS change over switch euro 16,90 Up to 16 different OS in a XL or a XE computer? At small expenditure no problem! This change over switch for 600XL, 800XL or XE, 1200XL and the 130XE is suitable. One must lift and by the EPROM replace only the existing OS from the base. With 3 rocker switches Options With BCD rotary switch (surcharge: Euro 2,00) Piece

 

link

 

Thanks, Mimo.

 

Do you (or anyone here) have one of these? So this would go into a 2-Mb eprom (or smaller if you didn't need quite so many OS)? Got to admit that's plenty of OS choices.

 

That would probably end up at around $35-40 depending on the shipping charges.

 

-Larry

Sorry, I don't have one (yet) but I think Beetle may have one, and MegaHz may be the maker

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Larry:

 

Are you are trying to use .025 square header pins? They don't work very well in sockets - they deform the connectors. You need .018 round headers, at least.

 

Take another board and set the pins in the desired pattern. Put your board on the pins (upside-down) Place an appropriate spacer between the two boards to set the height. Solder the pins to your board. Just solder two diagonal pins at the end of the row and you will be able to adjust the alignment after you solder. Once it looks good, solder the other two corners and adjust.

 

Bob

 

 

Bob Wooley's SmartOS kicks all of the above's arse.. 512k of NVRAM, adressed as both OS and LANGUAGE "ROMs", and soft switchable, soft rewritable... a whole lot faster than flash.. and you can store up to 32 16k images at a time.. AWESOME for experimaneting with custom OS modifications.. unlike Flash, NVRAM can be written one byte at a time, rather than reflashing the whole image..

 

Steve Carden has a board CADed up and ready for production (last I heard), and offers it at a reasonable price..

 

http://www.tcpipexpress.com

 

Thanks for the info/link. That sounds very interesting. Hopefully Steve C. will complete this project and provide some additional details. I know of another user that has been working on this for some time as a DIY project.

 

In the meantime, you would be an excellent person to ask a project question of...

 

I need to solder two 14-pin single-line (pin) headers to connect to a DIP-28 socket. I'm doing this on a small DATAK prototype board, and I've never attached header pins before. What's the best way -- pull down the little plastic spacer and anchor one end, or perhaps remove one pin and set it as the anchor then re-attach the plastic spacer bar (pushed down) so that all the other pins can be soldered? Or perhaps there is an easier method that I've not thought of?

 

Thanks,

Larry

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Bob Wooley's SmartOS kicks all of the above's arse.. 512k of NVRAM, adressed as both OS and LANGUAGE "ROMs", and soft switchable, soft rewritable... a whole lot faster than flash.. and you can store up to 32 16k images at a time.. AWESOME for experimaneting with custom OS modifications.. unlike Flash, NVRAM can be written one byte at a time, rather than reflashing the whole image..

 

Steve Carden has a board CADed up and ready for production (last I heard), and offers it at a reasonable price..

 

http://www.tcpipexpress.com

 

That's awesome!

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Larry:

 

Are you are trying to use .025 square header pins? They don't work very well in sockets - they deform the connectors. You need .018 round headers, at least.

 

Take another board and set the pins in the desired pattern. Put your board on the pins (upside-down) Place an appropriate spacer between the two boards to set the height. Solder the pins to your board. Just solder two diagonal pins at the end of the row and you will be able to adjust the alignment after you solder. Once it looks good, solder the other two corners and adjust.

 

Bob

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Yes, that sounds like it should work very well -- never thought of using a second board with a spacer as you recommend! When I get finished, this board won't be too much larger than the 28-pin dip socket with the resistors and connections for VCC and Gnd.

 

Do you have a suggested source for the .018" (or maybe .020") pins that you mention. I can certainly search it -- just thought you may have bought some before from someone you'd recommend.

 

Thanks,

 

Larry

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I bought some from Samtec many years ago. Or, from one of their distributors.

 

Bob

 

 

Larry:

 

Are you are trying to use .025 square header pins? They don't work very well in sockets - they deform the connectors. You need .018 round headers, at least.

 

Take another board and set the pins in the desired pattern. Put your board on the pins (upside-down) Place an appropriate spacer between the two boards to set the height. Solder the pins to your board. Just solder two diagonal pins at the end of the row and you will be able to adjust the alignment after you solder. Once it looks good, solder the other two corners and adjust.

 

Bob

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Yes, that sounds like it should work very well -- never thought of using a second board with a spacer as you recommend! When I get finished, this board won't be too much larger than the 28-pin dip socket with the resistors and connections for VCC and Gnd.

 

Do you have a suggested source for the .018" (or maybe .020") pins that you mention. I can certainly search it -- just thought you may have bought some before from someone you'd recommend.

 

Thanks,

 

Larry

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I found some of what I think is the part I use. Digikey has both gold ($4.53ea) and tin ($3.22ea ... $1.47 in 5000 quantities). The Samtec part number is TS-132-T-A for tin and TS-132-G-A for gold. Check the Samtec catalog carefully in case I disremember what I bought, OK? These are strips of 32 pins each - you get a 12 and a 20 off of each strip, a 24 pin GAL and a 40 pin CPU. (or, two 32 pin memory chips...) Digikey is good people, by the way. My experience has been that you can order online from them with confidence.

 

Bob

 

Larry:

 

Are you are trying to use .025 square header pins? They don't work very well in sockets - they deform the connectors. You need .018 round headers, at least.

 

Take another board and set the pins in the desired pattern. Put your board on the pins (upside-down) Place an appropriate spacer between the two boards to set the height. Solder the pins to your board. Just solder two diagonal pins at the end of the row and you will be able to adjust the alignment after you solder. Once it looks good, solder the other two corners and adjust.

 

Bob

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Yes, that sounds like it should work very well -- never thought of using a second board with a spacer as you recommend! When I get finished, this board won't be too much larger than the 28-pin dip socket with the resistors and connections for VCC and Gnd.

 

Do you have a suggested source for the .018" (or maybe .020") pins that you mention. I can certainly search it -- just thought you may have bought some before from someone you'd recommend.

 

Thanks,

 

Larry

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Hi Bob-

 

Thanks for the info. I did find them at Digikey as you indicate.

 

I keep playing "what-if" with this for ever easier, less expensive solutions. A very simple project, but a lot of fun, nonetheless.

 

So glad there are experienced guys like you around to help guide me!

 

-Larry

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