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Making cartridges/burning EPROMs


tkarner

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Is there a thread or FAQ explaining how to make your own cartridges? I'm guessing I need the following:

 

- An EPROM burner (any suggestions on which one?)

- PCBs (the ones from Pixels Past look easy to use)

- A source of EPROM chips (might have to buy these or I might be able to scavenge some from my packrat collection of old dead motherboards)

- Some hints and tips on procedure

- A source of cartridge cases (I could use some commons or does the Atariage store sell those cool transparent cases?)

 

Thanks.

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Buy the best eprom programmer you can afford. I made the mistake of purchasing a Willem off ebay. The price was very reasonable, but I had nothing but misery with it. Very unreliable and inconsistent. Eventually I did manage to get it working well enough to burn some eproms. You will probably also want to get an eprom eraser as well. Finally, buy eproms from AtariAge. Old eproms can have issues with incomplete erasing.

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Old eproms can have issues with incomplete erasing.

 

not true.

 

Uh, yeah, of course not. Al sells used EPROM's.

 

"This is a used EPROM that has been cleaned and erased."

 

:ponder:

 

I'm not saying that ALL used eproms won't work, only that there can be issues with them. I've got a few of 'em here that simply won't erase and program completely no matter how long I leave them in the eraser. The ones I got from Al work erase and program completely every time.

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Old eproms can have issues with incomplete erasing.

 

not true.

 

Uh, yeah, of course not. Al sells used EPROM's.

 

"This is a used EPROM that has been cleaned and erased."

 

:ponder:

 

I'm not saying that ALL used eproms won't work, only that there can be issues with them. I've got a few of 'em here that simply won't erase and program completely no matter how long I leave them in the eraser. The ones I got from Al work erase and program completely every time.

 

Please stop your noob level advice in this thread as I'm having a real hard time not ripping you a new one for being so foolish and misinforming the OP. Thanks.

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Thanks for the pointers. The Willem programmer actually caught my eye but I figured there must be a catch. For only $40 everyone would be making their own carts. Thanks for steering me away from it.

 

Is an EPROM eraser really needed? I was under the impression that sunlight or a UV light bulb would do it.

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Old eproms can have issues with incomplete erasing.

 

not true.

 

Uh, yeah, of course not. Al sells used EPROM's.

 

"This is a used EPROM that has been cleaned and erased."

 

:ponder:

 

I'm not saying that ALL used eproms won't work, only that there can be issues with them. I've got a few of 'em here that simply won't erase and program completely no matter how long I leave them in the eraser. The ones I got from Al work erase and program completely every time.

 

Please stop your noob level advice in this thread as I'm having a real hard time not ripping you a new one for being so foolish and misinforming the OP. Thanks.

 

I'll say no more. I was just sharing my experience, limited as it may be. Good day, sir.

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I have some NEC 8K eproms that after over half an hour, they still show as not erased. I've tried various methods, including the 1-minute-at-a-time, no luck. I just got like 30 of them, but 4K, and I'm hoping they are erased already.

 

My favorite ones are some Mitsubishi 4K, and some Texas Instruments 8K ones. Those erase and write fast. The Mitsubishi ones are erased in 1:30!

 

Too bad it's hard to look for specific eproms. Then you gotta figure out the erase time for each model. Now I started a list of model #s and erase times.

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Thanks for the pointers. The Willem programmer actually caught my eye but I figured there must be a catch. For only $40 everyone would be making their own carts. Thanks for steering me away from it.

 

Is an EPROM eraser really needed? I was under the impression that sunlight or a UV light bulb would do it.

Sunlight is fine if you have about 25 years spare to wait for the process to work :D

I suggest something fit for purpose, I got one from evilbay (a Hong Kong source) that works fine and was dirt cheap.

I am sure a UV light would be OK, but you would probably want it in some sort of enclosure to stop blinding yourself/your inquisitive kids etc

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Old eproms can have issues with incomplete erasing.

 

not true.

 

Uh, yeah, of course not. Al sells used EPROM's.

 

"This is a used EPROM that has been cleaned and erased."

 

:ponder:

 

I'm not saying that ALL used eproms won't work, only that there can be issues with them. I've got a few of 'em here that simply won't erase and program completely no matter how long I leave them in the eraser. The ones I got from Al work erase and program completely every time.

 

Please stop your noob level advice in this thread as I'm having a real hard time not ripping you a new one for being so foolish and misinforming the OP. Thanks.

 

I'll say no more. I was just sharing my experience, limited as it may be. Good day, sir.

 

Not to jump into hot water, but I've had the same experience before.

Granted, the ones that wouldn't burn after erased occurred because the EPROM was incorrectly flashed by an inexperienced guy (me), so putting VPP to the wrong pin really messes things up. Gotta watch that, and make sure that doesn't happen. Such chips can become toasted.

 

I also had a few chip tubes with 100 EPROMs in it that were from a "used source" (i.e. dumpster harvested)

4 of the 100 won't erase at all.

 

Now, if you get them from Al, or a reputable place, you're likely good. If you're harvesting parts from old and potentially fried machines (as was the case with the 100 chips I received), you're going to hit some duds.

 

-John

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You have to use a germicidal UV lamp of the right wavelength and not a "blacklight" bulb.

 

+1 on the enclosure. UV light will sunburn you and damage your eyes.

 

RJ

 

 

Thanks. I did some further reading and learned about the germicidal bulbs being the only ones that will erase an EPROM. They're UV-C and blacklights are UV-A. Some of the EPROM erasers on ebay are probably cheaper than buying a germicidal bulb and building a safe enclosure myself, so I'll probably get one of those.

 

The Batronix burner seems like the way to go too. Waiting now for the tax rebate check...

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Next question. Has anyone used a ZIF socket on the Pixels Past PCBs? I thought it might be convenient to have a handful of games on EPROMs and swap the EPROMs on the PCB instead of having one PCB per game. Also, to save myself from soldering, would a ZIF socket fit into the socketed PCBs? Any clearance issues, either on the PCB or with the console's cartridge slot?

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I periodically encounter EPROMs that will not erase or program, so it's not really that uncommon. Those get tossed right into the trash.

 

..Al

For me, problems with erasure are pretty much always due to a dirty or damaged window rather than a defect with the silicon. Otherwise, the EPROMs seem to always let me change their bits from 0->1 in the erasure process. However, I often find EPROMs that will not program (i.e. the bits will not change from 1->0.)

 

However, I generally don't throw them out right away - They get an extended stay in the eraser and another programming attempt before I give up on them.

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You can also use EEPROMs instead of EPROMs (no need for an eraser in this case).

Here is what I did to use a 28C64 EEPROM on a Pixels Past 2K/4K PCB :

EEPROM2600.JPG

Works fine on a 7800 I own, haven't tested it on a 2600 though.

Edited by Torlus
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You can also use EEPROMs instead of EPROMs (no need for an eraser in this case).

Here is what I did to use a 28C64 EEPROM on a Pixels Past 2K/4K PCB :

EEPROM2600.JPG

Works fine on a 7800 I own, haven't tested it on a 2600 though.

You could also use the Pixels Past 8k board and you wouldn't need to hack components on. If you want to use 4k games on that board, burn two copies of the image to the 28C64 (which I'd guess you're probably doing anyway.)
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However, I generally don't throw them out right away - They get an extended stay in the eraser and another programming attempt before I give up on them.

I generally do this also--I'll save them and put them in the eraser again. If they don't program after that, they get tossed. I figure at that point it's not worth spending any more time on them.

 

..Al

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  • 12 years later...

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