Monitors that can do pal and ntsc (in the US)

[flashjazzcat]

You would think it would be improved.

My favourite to look at is the Philips CM8833-II because of the swivel pedestal and glossy, SC1435-like tube, but they dropped separate Y/C from that model entirely (composite only, although the traces are still on the mainboard for the discreet inputs). That's progress for you.

[Zap!]

My favourite to look at is the Philips CM8833-II because of the swivel pedestal and glossy, SC1435-like tube, but they dropped separate Y/C from that model entirely (composite only, although the traces are still on the mainboard for the discreet inputs). That's progress for you.

 

That looks nice. My 1084S-D2 came with a swivel base, but as of now I'm not using it. I also own an SC1435. What a shame it doesn't do composite. Who's dumb decision was it to have left that out? It's a beast of a monitor, and looks amazing. Even has a green mode switch.

 

I'm having no luck selling my PAL 1084S-D2. Even posted a thread in the "For sale" section and no one replied. Gonna have to maybe try eBay.

[flashjazzcat]

That looks nice. My 1084S-D2 came with a swivel base, but as of now I'm not using it. I also own an SC1435. What a shame it doesn't do composite. Who's dumb decision was it to have left that out? It's a beast of a monitor, and looks amazing. Even has a green mode switch.

I've been looking for an original 1084S swivel base for a long time. Right now I have it on a generic Rubbermaid swivel base which is less than elegant. I should imagine the CM8833-II and SC1435 had various inputs omitted simply because they were deemed superfluous, and the production cost savings were probably significant. About the only thing I don't like about the 1084S-D1/2 is the anti-glare tube, which also appears to have a larger dot pitch than the wonderfully sharp, vibrant, glossy screens used in the SC1435 and CM8833-II alike (note: all these monitors have basically the same or similar mainboards with various bits not soldererd in and hooked up to different tubes). A committed masochist or extremism pundit could probably add Y/C plus all the missing switches to an SC1435 mainboard.

 

I'm having no luck selling my PAL 1084S-D2. Even posted a thread in the "For sale" section and no one replied. Gonna have to maybe try eBay.

Astounding. I already have a pair of D1s and a D2. Funny thing is, the phosphor is showing degradation on the D2 but the D1s are both fine. These monitors tend to go for 25-50 GBP over here in the UK, but hefty carriage charges inflict additional pain (as does the frequently realized risk of in-transit damage).

Edited October 1, 2014 by flashjazzcat

[Zap!]

I've been looking for an original 1084S swivel base for a long time. Right now I have it on a generic Rubbermaid swivel base which is less than elegant. I should imagine the CM8833-II and SC1435 had various inputs omitted simply because they were deemed superfluous, and the production cost savings were probably significant. About the only thing I don't like about the 1084S-D1/2 is the anti-glare tube, which also appears to have a larger dot pitch than the wonderfully sharp, vibrant, glossy screens used in the SC1435 and CM8833-II alike (note: all these monitors have basically the same or similar mainboards with various bits not soldererd in and hooked up to different tubes). A committed masochist or extremism pundit could probably add Y/C plus all the missing switches to an SC1435 mainboard.

 

Astounding. I already have a pair of D1s and a D2. Funny thing is, the phosphor is showing degradation on the D2 but the D1s are both fine. These monitors tend to go for 25-50 GBP over here in the UK, but hefty carriage charges inflict additional pain (as does the frequently realized risk of in-transit damage).

 

 

If I can obtain a 1084S-D1 with the swivel base, I can sell you my extra base for dirt cheap. I will let you know.

 

If someone can come to my house and add those ports to my SC1435, I offer $100. Any takers?

 

There's a 1084S-P on eBay in the UK right now for cheap. Here's the link:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Commodore-1084s-Amiga-colour-monitor-Tested-in-Fair-condition-see-listing/121449114023?_trksid=p2050601.c100272.m3467&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140813112422%26meid%3D1f804e7a29e54621985834920460c5e9%26pid%3D100272%26prg%3D20140813112422%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D271623641770%26clkid%3D926409537952209527&_qi=RTM1562571

[flashjazzcat]

Many thanks.

 

I have two of those 1084S-P monitors, both stone dead after I used them for a few hours.

[+MrFish]

I'll give a recommendation for getting a studio monitor with an SMPTE-C phosphor tube. I've got a JVC BM-H1300SU. It does RGB, S-Video, Composite, and has outputs (pass through), which allow you to easily connect it to an external audio amplifier and/or other video-in devices, such as computer video encoding cards.

 

Although the picture is a little less saturated, than say a C1702 or similar, it has a "Chroma" adjustment (similar to what's typically referred to as color or saturation on other sets), which allows you to dial in additional saturation, if desired. I haven't found the saturation levels to be a problem. The clarity of the set is awesome with the Ataris, especially when using S-Video. It works with PAL equipment, and has no problem doing so called "PAL-Blending" with an NTSC signal either.

 

I got mine NIB on eBay for $5 shipped (from one side of the U.S. to the other). I wouldn't trade it for anything.

Edited October 2, 2014 by MrFish

[Zap!]

I'll give a recommendation for getting a studio monitor with an SMPTE-C phosphor tube. I've got a JVC BM-H1300SU. It does RGB, S-Video, Composite, and has outputs (pass through), which allow you to easily connect it to an external audio amplifier and/or other video-in devices, such as computer video encoding cards.

 

Although the picture is a little less saturated, than say a C1702 or similar, it has a "Chroma" adjustment (similar to what's typically referred to as color or saturation on other sets), which allows you to dial in additional saturation, if desired. I haven't found the saturation levels to be a problem. The clarity of the set is awesome with the Ataris, especially when using S-Video. It works with PAL equipment, and has no problem doing so called "PAL-Blending" with an NTSC signal either.

 

I got mine NIB on eBay for $5 shipped (from one side of the U.S. to the other). I wouldn't trade it for anything.

 

That monitor looks really nice! How did you get it for $5 shipped? I'd imagine shipping alone would have to be at least $20.

[+MrFish]

That monitor looks really nice! How did you get it for $5 shipped? I'd imagine shipping alone would have to be at least $20.

 

The guy didn't know what he was doing.

 

My mistake though. I just looked up the transaction, and it looks like I paid $5.50 for the monitor and $30.00 to ship. It was a few years back, so... I think what I was remembering is that it cost him $45.00 to ship it. So essentially it cost him $10 to sell it to me.

 

Being brand new and in the box, it was still a steal for $35 shipped. I think I actually set my bid to a max of something like $45; But nobody bid. The auction ended on Thanksgiving day. I imagined most people were too busy eating turkey and watching football to notice... I bid a couple of days earlier.

Edited October 2, 2014 by MrFish

[576XE]

Pro monitor doing as it must to do. Eats all shit and make a good picture from it.

Any other meanings goes to posts about incompatibility of monitors with...

 

I mean we need good monitor which can give us a good picture from given above atari. No more.

[firestorm]

Try this one!

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sony-Trinitron-PVM-14L5-Multiformat-Color-Video-Monitor-/291258104979?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d055fc93

[kogden]

I have both a Panasonic CT-1384Y and a Sony 20" PVM. The Panasonic looks the best IMHO but it needs some adjustment and/or power supply work. The Sony looks great but the space between scanlines bugs me. The PVM will do PAL though. Unfortunately I don't have a PAL Atari and the Nir Dary PAL/NTSC mod does not work on either of them. Installing the PAL ANTIC gives me no color on PVM and the bottom 3rd of the display is cut off on the Panasonic.

 

One day I'll either buy a PAL Atari or modify an NTSC one to do proper PAL. I like all the cool European demos. In NTSC-land we don't have much besides the Xanth demos which are a bit dated. I guess the US demo coders moved to the ST fairly quickly.

[firestorm]

I have PAL and NTSC Ataris 800XL and can confirm that both works very good. This is HD monitor with 800 lines resolution. Should work with Atari ST as well.

I love this space between scan lines it shows precision.

Just look.

 

 

Atari is connected by s-video. To get this quality I had to disconnect TV modulator, C56 and C54 plus wire from R67/R68 to Croma pin.

Edited October 3, 2014 by firestorm

[kogden]

That's pretty cool, my usual method is to fire up Star Raiders and tweak until I get the appropriate turquoise color for shields instead of green or blue. Just punched those two lines into BASIC and it turns out my adjustment was spot on hahaha

[firestorm]

Ups.. it was for another topic but thank you

 

Based on Atari 400/800 Field Service Manual, there is simple way to adjust color pot on NTSC Atari computer without using SALT cartridge. Before you try this please keep your Atari switched on to warm up for 15 minutes.

 

SETCOLOR 2,1,8 REM CHANGES BACKGROUND COLOR TO 1, PRESS RETURN

SETCOLOR 4,15,8 REM CHANGES FRAME COLOR TO 15, PRESS RETURN

 

Then adjust Atari color pot to make background and frame around the screen of the same color as possible.

Edited October 3, 2014 by firestorm

[+Stephen]

This is bothersome, as the Atari is really only a 240 colour machine by Atari's instructions.

[firestorm]

Kogden I envy your Sony PVM-20L5 must be amazing for gaming

[Zap!]

Does anyone know anything at all about the Sony PVM20M2? Someone is selling it for $110 and won't budge. It's big for a PVM, at 20". But does it have all the best features?

[kogden]

Kogden I envy your Sony PVM-20L5 must be amazing for gaming

 

It's a good screen. Almost too good in some respects. Does RGB too so if I ever get a VBXE I'll be good to go. When I use it, I keep both composite and S-Video wired up so I can flip between them if I need artifacting for games like Star Fleet I and the old-school Choplifter. Where it REALLY shines is actually text. 80col text is actually quite readable. Probably great as an ST monitor too. I imagine it could even pull off the hi-rez mono mode with ease.

 

After installing a LowBudget S-Video board in my XL's they looked fantastic. The board has an FMS6400 video filter IC on it and replaces the video circuit with something more like the original 800. Helped a lot with newer screens.

[firestorm]

That's a good idea, with composite and s-video hook up! And then just press A or B on monitor.

[Zap!]

Going to pick up a 20 inch Sony PVM20M2 from a local Craigslist. Guy wants $110.

[Muzz73]

I believe the NTSC Commodore 1701 will display a PAL picture in B&W, while the 1702 (NTSC) does not.

[jmetal88]

I recommend against getting professional broadcast monitors. They usually use a more color accurate type of phosphor called SMPTE-C. That sounds good but the disadvantage is that they look very dull when used with consumer equipment. Consumer tubes (TV's, composite computer monitors, arcade monitors...) use P-22 phosphor.

 

See this thread:

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/205444-whats-a-good-atari-8-bit-monitor-to-get/

 

My PVM (14M4U) actually has a menu adjustment that drives the electron guns differently to simulate different types of phosphors.