5200 Power Switch

[VectorGamer]

I received the joysticks today and here's something odd - Centipede and Ms. Pac-Man controls work fine. Two different Pac-Man carts and a Dig Dug cart I am not able to turn right or do down.

 

What do you make of this?

 

Here's also what I found...

 

The joystick pulls to the left. In Centipede, I cannot go right or down unless I move the joystick all the way to the left and then up. Movement is fine the rest of the game.

[VectorGamer]

I received the joysticks today and here's something odd - Centipede and Ms. Pac-Man controls work fine. Two different Pac-Man carts and a Dig Dug cart I am not able to turn right or do down.

 

What do you make of this?

 

Here's also what I found...

 

The joystick pulls to the left. In Centipede, I cannot go right or down unless I move the joystick all the way to the left and then up. Movement is fine the rest of the game.

 

 

Nevermind. I found that pot the others were talking about in other posts and it works like a champ.

[Ransom]

Nevermind. I found that pot the others were talking about in other posts and it works like a champ.

 

Good to hear it! I had to adjust mine, too. Everything but Blueprint worked great when I had both the sticks and the ports adjusted to perfection using the diagnostic cart and a loopback board. So I had to actually put things out of adjustment to get that one game working!

 

I'm finding that the 5200 is itself a hobby within a hobby. But it's worth it.

[VectorGamer]

Well, at this point I have 1.5 working 5200 stock controllers. The .5 controller has one working fire button and the keypad does not work.

 

This is my first experience with a 5200. So last night was the first time I could experience first hand what the fuss was about regarding these analog controllers. I can understand the fuss but it wasn't as bad as I expected.

 

I had more problems maneuvering around the maze in Ms. Pac-Man than I did in Pac-Man. Centipede presented no faults in working the joysticks. Dig Dug, however, was difficult in stopping my guy and as a result I was getting killed too easily due to the fact that you have to get close to the monster to blow them up.

 

Overall, the 5200 is a poor design. The switchbox is unorthodox and I had sparks shooting out of it the first time I messed with it.

 

The stock joysticks are a problem especially when you need pinpoint accuracy. It certainly takes away from the gameplay when the sticks are a hinderance and not an ally. Additionally, Atari did a disservice to users by not finding a way to get the 2600 joysticks compatible with this system (after all, they work with Colecovision and the 7800).

 

Maybe someone knows a better way on how to adjust the joystick calibration pot on the motherboard with a cartridge inserted and game on. From what I experienced, you need the cover to lock the cartridge into position. With that, I had to adjust the pot by raising the cover a half-inch with the cover still on and cartridge inserted to see the onscreen results.

 

The output to the screen is admirable. Aside from the eyes missing in Pac-Man, I found it to be an excellent port of the arcade game. I really liked the speed of the game as well.

 

I will probably go ahead and replace the rusty RF Shield and buy additional games for the system. Maybe I will luck out and find a better joystick at a reasonable price. All in all, it certainly isn't my favorite console but it is playable. I don't understand what Atari's design philosophy was at the time.

[Ransom]

I've had success getting a cart inserted without the cover by using a small screwdriver to push back the dust cover on the cart, then using my finger to keep the dust cover pushed back as I carefully put the cart on the motherboard connector.

 

Having good 5200 controllers (the Gold controllers from Best Electronics are truly wonderful) plus calibrating the console is key to enjoying the 5200.

 

Also key is sticking to games that benefit from that controller.

 

You'll probably find the following games to be particularly good with the 5200 controllers:

Centipede

Missile Command

Star Raiders

Super Breakout

Space Invaders

 

With two good controllers and the dual controller holder:

Robotron: 2084

Space Dungeon

 

I've also found that properly calibrated, the controllers work well with all kinds of games such as Vanguard, Berzerk, Gremlins, Galaxian, etc. But it's best to build up some familiarity by playing the other games first.

 

And, naturally, having a trak-ball brings it to a whole new level with games like Centipede and Missile Command.

 

So my experience has been that you can either spend $80 on two of Best Electronics' Gold controllers, or you can spend $80+ on a Wico 5200 joystick and Y-cable. Either way you'll have a better 5200 experience than with semi-broken stock controllers. But only one way will you get the best possible experience from the games as they were intended to be played.

 

Whatever you decide to do, I hope you have a great time with your 5200.

Edited March 31, 2009 by Ransom

[Mirage]

I would still sincerely recommend buying the Gold stick (at least one, preferably 2) from Best, and I think anyone else who has bought them would recommend it as well. Your 1.5 working sticks will soon be 0. You were incredibly lucky to get even one working one in a used lot. Even with a decently working original controller, there's still a night and day difference with the Gold stick. Also, on mine at least, the stick boot is much stiffer, which makes it close (but not quite) to self-centering. Both my Gold sticks are like that. The buttons work MUCH better on the Gold sticks also. Remember, it's the entire thing that's upgraded, not just the joystick part. I know it may seem like a lot of money. I realize that. But by the time you've bought used ones (too late), messed with them, later buy repair parts one at a time, etc, you're going to be money ahead just biting the bullet and getting the Gold controller. This is hard-learned advice I'm giving you here, and if you're really serious about the system, it's the only right way to go about this.

 

I don't know how bad your sheild is, but I'd just clean it up and re-install it. I'd rather put the $ into the Gold sticks. Seems to me money not really well spent if the choice is between that and the same $ going toward Gold sticks (or even just one).

 

To each their own since it's personal preference, but I really don't think the 5200 is a bad design. Unconventional, yes, but it works as intended most of the time. You'll get used to it if you give it a chance. It's not for everyone. As for the switchbox, there can be some sparks occasionally, but turn the lights down and plug anything in... you're going to see similar. It doesn't bother me in the slightest, but if it bothers you, there are fixes as has already been mentioned.

 

At any rate, have fun, enjoy, and glad to see you're up and running with it!

[VectorGamer]

I would still sincerely recommend buying the Gold stick (at least one, preferably 2) from Best, and I think anyone else who has bought them would recommend it as well. Your 1.5 working sticks will soon be 0. You were incredibly lucky to get even one working one in a used lot. Even with a decently working original controller, there's still a night and day difference with the Gold stick. Also, on mine at least, the stick boot is much stiffer, which makes it close (but not quite) to self-centering. Both my Gold sticks are like that. The buttons work MUCH better on the Gold sticks also. Remember, it's the entire thing that's upgraded, not just the joystick part. I know it may seem like a lot of money. I realize that. But by the time you've bought used ones (too late), messed with them, later buy repair parts one at a time, etc, you're going to be money ahead just biting the bullet and getting the Gold controller. This is hard-learned advice I'm giving you here, and if you're really serious about the system, it's the only right way to go about this.

 

I don't know how bad your sheild is, but I'd just clean it up and re-install it. I'd rather put the $ into the Gold sticks. Seems to me money not really well spent if the choice is between that and the same $ going toward Gold sticks (or even just one).

 

To each their own since it's personal preference, but I really don't think the 5200 is a bad design. Unconventional, yes, but it works as intended most of the time. You'll get used to it if you give it a chance. It's not for everyone. As for the switchbox, there can be some sparks occasionally, but turn the lights down and plug anything in... you're going to see similar. It doesn't bother me in the slightest, but if it bothers you, there are fixes as has already been mentioned.

 

At any rate, have fun, enjoy, and glad to see you're up and running with it!

 

The RF Shield is beyond cleaning. I think a new one is like $15.

 

How does the joystick exchange work with Best? Does it matter if my keypads aren't 100%? Does he upgrade the actual controller and ship it back or does he send you one that he already has in stock? What if the ribbons inside the controller are suspect?

[Mirage]

The RF Shield is beyond cleaning. I think a new one is like $15.

 

How does the joystick exchange work with Best? Does it matter if my keypads aren't 100%? Does he upgrade the actual controller and ship it back or does he send you one that he already has in stock? What if the ribbons inside the controller are suspect?

 

Okay, if it's beyond cleaning, then it is.

 

For exchange, it doesn't really matter. Basically, so long as they're good usable shells. Everything else gets replaced. Like I mentioned before a couple times though, it's hardly worth trading them in. They only give you $5 each, and by the time you pay to ship them to Best, you may as well just forget the trade-ins and buy the new Gold sticks direct as you're basically donating the trade-in sticks. I wouldn't have bothered buying any sticks to begin with, as it's just not worth it. Could have had half Gold stick for the $20-something $ already spent. But, OTOH, at least now you have some spares to rebuild, and one currently-working controller, so it's not all for nothing (still truly amazing that one is working!)

 

He doesn't upgrade the exact controller you send. He has a stockpile of finished ones, he just sends you a new ones once he credits yours. The ribbons (I assume you mean the flex circuits?) or whatever also don't matter as they're replaced. On the site is a list of all the parts that are replaced (I know, it's a hard site to navigate and read!), and if you inventory the list, you'll see that pretty close to everything is replaced, even the silver nameplates on the outside. If you total up all the parts it would cost you to rebuild it yourself the same way, you'll see that he's only charging like $4-5 to rebuild the thing.

Edited April 1, 2009 by Mirage1972

[VectorGamer]

The RF Shield is beyond cleaning. I think a new one is like $15.

 

How does the joystick exchange work with Best? Does it matter if my keypads aren't 100%? Does he upgrade the actual controller and ship it back or does he send you one that he already has in stock? What if the ribbons inside the controller are suspect?

 

Okay, if it's beyond cleaning, then it is.

 

For exchange, it doesn't really matter. Basically, so long as they're good usable shells. Everything else gets replaced. Like I mentioned before a couple times though, it's hardly worth trading them in. They only give you $5 each, and by the time you pay to ship them to Best, you may as well just forget the trade-ins and buy the new Gold sticks direct as you're basically donating the trade-in sticks. I wouldn't have bothered buying any sticks to begin with, as it's just not worth it. Could have had half Gold stick for the $20-something $ already spent. But, OTOH, at least now you have some spares to rebuild, and one currently-working controller, so it's not all for nothing (still truly amazing that one is working!)

 

He doesn't upgrade the exact controller you send. He has a stockpile of finished ones, he just sends you a new ones once he credits yours. The ribbons (I assume you mean the flex circuits?) or whatever also don't matter as they're replaced. On the site is a list of all the parts that are replaced (I know, it's a hard site to navigate and read!), and if you inventory the list, you'll see that pretty close to everything is replaced, even the silver nameplates on the outside. If you total up all the parts it would cost you to rebuild it yourself the same way, you'll see that he's only charging like $4-5 to rebuild the thing.

 

Has anyone posted instructions with screen prints for replacing the parts inside these controllers? I was not able to find any.

[Mirage]

Has anyone posted instructions with screen prints for replacing the parts inside these controllers? I was not able to find any.

 

I don't recall any with photos. I know there aren't any on the Best site. I was able to rebuild my two original controllers no problem with just their directions though, which is what made me realize that it's totally worth it to just pay them the few extra bucks to just do it for you BTW, I think Best still has some other rebuilt sticks for less $, but I think that's wasted $ too, as opposed to the Gold "lifetime" sticks.

[Ransom]

Yeah, the gold ones are really worth it. I got the best non-gold (rev 9) flex circuits and some like-new buttons, and the things still only worked for a little while due to the corrosion that builds up. It was a waste of money.

[VectorGamer]

As of now I have three working controllers out of the bunch and a fourth one that I need to debug. I will not get more than four working controllers out of the lot of five that I bought.

 

With that, I am going to spend the $15 to replace the RF Shield and hold off on new controllers for awhile. When I replace the RF Shield, I am going to give it one last shot at scrubbing the case on this thing with a toothbrush - the brown crud certainly has been resilient.

 

Q: Does the 5200 need recalibrated when connecting the track ball controller? I calibrated the system to get the joysticks to work properly and when connecting the trackball, the cannon in Centipede veers all the way over to the right as if I have to recalibrate it.

[Ransom]

Q: Does the 5200 need recalibrated when connecting the track ball controller? I calibrated the system to get the joysticks to work properly and when connecting the trackball, the cannon in Centipede veers all the way over to the right as if I have to recalibrate it.

 

Normally, no, that's not necessary. If the pots in the controllers are giving the readings they should, the trak-ball is giving the readings it should, and the ports are calibrated as they should be, then there should be no problem switching between the two.

Edited April 4, 2009 by Ransom