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flashback2 mod. rev c help


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Yours sounds like a Rev. B, or maybe Rev. C is similar. I posted a while ago about my Rev. B board mod with pictures.

 

Anyway, you need to short J3 and open J9, and J9 is actually a 0 ohm resistor that you need to remove, or solder on wires for a switch.

 

The cart pin pads are indicated by a combination of numbers and a white circle in silkscreen around the pad. I agree that #21 is confusing, but if you just look at pads with silkscreen around them, there is only one pad it could be (it's not right by the number, but use the process of elimination to figure it out.)

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Yours sounds like a Rev. B, or maybe Rev. C is similar. I posted a while ago about my Rev. B board mod with pictures.

 

Anyway, you need to short J3 and open J9, and J9 is actually a 0 ohm resistor that you need to remove, or solder on wires for a switch.

 

The cart pin pads are indicated by a combination of numbers and a white circle in silkscreen around the pad. I agree that #21 is confusing, but if you just look at pads with silkscreen around them, there is only one pad it could be (it's not right by the number, but use the process of elimination to figure it out.)

 

Thanks for getting back.I found #21, after correcting my pinout problem at the cartrige side.pin 1 is bottom right corner thru 12, going left.I had wired the bottom row left to right!I didn't refer to the pinout in the FAQ.thanks everything is working.

Why the 0 ohm resistor? do I need this with the switch mod?

thanks again-"e"

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Yours sounds like a Rev. B, or maybe Rev. C is similar. I posted a while ago about my Rev. B board mod with pictures.

 

Anyway, you need to short J3 and open J9, and J9 is actually a 0 ohm resistor that you need to remove, or solder on wires for a switch.

 

The cart pin pads are indicated by a combination of numbers and a white circle in silkscreen around the pad. I agree that #21 is confusing, but if you just look at pads with silkscreen around them, there is only one pad it could be (it's not right by the number, but use the process of elimination to figure it out.)

 

Thanks for getting back.I found #21, after correcting my pinout problem at the cartrige side.pin 1 is bottom right corner thru 12, going left.I had wired the bottom row left to right!I didn't refer to the pinout in the FAQ.thanks everything is working.

Why the 0 ohm resistor? do I need this with the switch mod?

thanks again-"e"

the zero ohm resistor turns on the built in memmory so it probably turns the chip enable on and off so when you switch to cart it turns off the built in memmory anyway the switch used to switch between built in and carts is a single throw double pole meaning it has two switches built into one switch one on the right side and a nother on the left side I just scrapped the whole black and white and color switch completly off the motherboard on my cabinet i used a old 2600 witch was toast and scratched the cart slot too every pin on top and bottom so i could solder them to flashback II

I had to seperate the both sides of b/w switch but left the gnd then finnally figured out how to hook it up I had to swap one side to get it to work but it looks exactly like a normal 2600 from the outside but now has a built in flashback II I also decided to use the power switch differtnly than it was normaly wired so i scratched that too and made power always on then took 5v after the output of the lm340t(7805) voltage regulator after the capacitor so the power switch unhooked from the capacitor output so if you plugged it in the power pack would have a load as one time a zenith power pack blew up but i think that was cause it had a center tap! anyway i used the ch3 ch4 switch for b/w and color on the flashback II and also scrathced the whole joystick 1 and 2 controlers and dificulty switches off too at least those goto gnd so that was only one wire needed for difficlty a and b then the reset button and select button was easy too just one small wire to gnd then that works too. so i snipped then black and white sticker a little so it says b/m and cart not flipping the w over and using it as a m b/m means built in memmory and c means cart so only for a small amount of sticker missing from color/bw switch you cant tell the differnce its a 4 switcher so the ch3 switch is on back making it easyer to get to than if it was a old heavy sixer and the ch3 swtich was on bottom threw hole you needed a long screwdriver to change so this is easyer.

GOOD LUCK. I think you have the most impossible hard hack version Flashback II board I tried it once and got the switch screwed up I did however load up tank once but didnt know about the zero ohm reistor SO i couldnt turn off the built in memmory and had yars revenge like chunks on the screen I called electronic interferance witch was cause i didnt know the switch was double pole meaning two switched simultanously must be switched to change from built in d external I did get tank to work but never found out about the 2nd switched line to turn off built in memmory the other switch i guess i found must have been pin 6 on cart chip enable cause unless on the working rev c the one w the jumpers and markings easy to mod one i put into the 2600 the other one is toast I do have 2 extra cases for flashback II'2 one w sticker one w out both in pretty good condition. anyway when you play you can get the b/w switch just between the two outputs and get one to stick before it completly turns off and you can see that same interferance i saw also if you do switch it all the way off and goto built in memmory and leave cart in you can see a small amount of rf interferance from the file running in cart on game running in built in memmory this is like the left side anyway if you unplug cart it goes away more .. GOOD LUCK pleas post picture of finished product! :cool: :twisted: :roll: :D :D

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