Atari 1020 Plotter Field Service Manual

[FlorianD]

we had the same problem in Germany while repairing 1020's.

Turned out you could use a part others use for mini RC helicopters. The tiny cogwheel is named

EA-055-13

has a 1,5mm hole for the shaft

and module 0.25M for the teeth

13 teeth

 

see here: http://www.abbuc.de/community/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8059&hilit=1020#p64062

 

it worked perfectly on my 1020, i changed both cogwheels on the paperdrum-drive and the print-head-drive side.

 

if anybody is interested, I can translate my repair instructions and post them here

[neopeius]

we had the same problem in Germany while repairing 1020's.

Turned out you could use a part others use for mini RC helicopters. The tiny cogwheel is named

EA-055-13

has a 1,5mm hole for the shaft

and module 0.25M for the teeth

13 teeth

 

see here: http://www.abbuc.de/community/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8059&hilit=1020#p64062

 

it worked perfectly on my 1020, i changed both cogwheels on the paperdrum-drive and the print-head-drive side.

 

if anybody is interested, I can translate my repair instructions and post them here

 

Please! That's really great, thank you. Someday, when I have lots of time, I should put all these fixes together in a single website.

[FlorianD]

1020 Cogwheel repair

 

0. Before start: I unplugged the power supply unit from the printer and remove all pens

1. On the bottom there are 3 screws (size Philips 2=PH2), remove them and put them aside (these are black and have a thread intended for plastic)

2. Remove the two rubber feet in front, there are another 2 screws (also PH2), remove them also. These have a machine thread and have metal/silver color)

3. Set the printer upright and with the key facing towards you. Gently pull the brown front on the lower end towards you and then remove/unhook it from the upper half (same principle as with 1050 Floppy drives).

4. Now you are able to se the mechanic parts. Frontside right is another black screw (PH2), remove it, set it aside (Note: this one is shorter than the others - don't mix!!).

5. Now take the mechanics parts carefully up, it is still connected by 2 cables: 1 black cable, which you can easily unplug from the pin on the board; and a multicolored flat cable with flat plug. Carefully unplug it from its connector on the board.

6. On the printer mechanics there are two very small cogwheel, one on the left, one on the right. These need to be replaced. Usually they have a crack just between two teeth and now sit loosely on the axle (and because of that the paper forward/backward movement and the revolver head don't work properly any more)

7. Remove the little cogwheels. On the paper side there is a larger, spring loaded cogwheel. Examine it carefully, ideally mark two teeth so you are able to put it back together with the right spring tension. This keeps the slack out of the gears, to assure exact printing when the paper moves backwards and forward. If needed, use a very small flathead screwdriver, insert into the crack and turn. That should finally break them off.

8. the new brazen cogwheels have a slightly to narrow boring. Use a 1.5mm drill bit, but use it with your hands only and give it one turn inside the borehole. You just need to enlarge it a very very tiny bit.

9. press the cogwheels onto the axles. TAKE CARE: don't push the axles into the motors. How? Try it, I have no gold solution. One side went well with using a small plastic hammer on the other side I held the axle with pliers and pushed the wheel by hand. DON'T heat the cogwheels to enlarge them, you will ruin the other cogwheels!!!!!

10. Connect the ribbon cable, then the black cable, set the mechanics into its place, fasten the small black screw, close the housing, insert 3+2 screws, attach rubber feet.

11. now it should work again. Careful people give it a try before fully closing everything.

I wish you success when doing it!

And the fine print: I am not responsible if you damage your stuff or yourself. This is a description of how i did it.