Atarifever Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 (edited) So I went to a community yard sale today and found a boxed (with the original $299.99 price tag on it and everything) Intellivision II system. In the box there were no hookups, but instead 3 boxed games (Diner, Space Battle, and Space Armada) and the system itself. I figured I'd only buy if it was a good price. When I asked at the front the woman told me they wanted $2 for the works. I figured that was an okay deal, so I bought it. Anyway, what are my options for hooking it up? Does the Atari 7800 Coax cable work? Are there any options for the power supply? Thanks. Edited October 31, 2010 by Atarifever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+thegoldenband Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 (edited) The power supply is the big issue with the Inty II, as it uses an unusual voltage. I'll let wiser heads than mine discuss the issue, but I seem to remember that someone was able to use a different AC adapter without problems. As for RF, it just uses a standard cable. No issues there. Having said that, even without the power supply, you made out like a bandit. A boxed Diner on its own is worth at least ~$30 (US) depending on condition, and more if it's CIB. Edited October 31, 2010 by thegoldenband Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atarifever Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 Having said that, even without the power supply, you made out like a bandit. A boxed Diner on its own is worth at least ~$30 (US) depending on condition, and more if it's CIB. Yeah, the way I figured it, I don't know Inty game values, but I figure ANY classic game boxed (each of the other 2 have both overlays and manuals, and Diner is complete with manual)is worth at least $3. So even if the three games were dirt cheap (apparently Diner isn't), it's $9 worth of games for $2. Then I figured the box was probably worth $2 to a collector (including the little Inty Catalog that came with it), so I figured I couldn't lose too bad at that price anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApolloBoy Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 The power supply is the big issue with the Inty II, as it uses an unusual voltage. I'll let wiser heads than mine discuss the issue, but I seem to remember that someone was able to use a different AC adapter without problems. You can use an Atari 5200 power supply on it with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atarifever Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 The power supply is the big issue with the Inty II, as it uses an unusual voltage. I'll let wiser heads than mine discuss the issue, but I seem to remember that someone was able to use a different AC adapter without problems. You can use an Atari 5200 power supply on it with no problems. Don't have one of those either. Here's what I have in the adaptor bag (I don't even own some of these systems anymore) Genesis Gamegear NES SNES Famiclone Flashback 2 Anything in there pull it off? I'm afraid to just mix and match without knowing if any of those will kill the system. Also, there's a department store here that sells two types of adjustable adaptors. The one I bought to work the Lynx only goes to something like 12V or something, and has 6 interchangable heads. There was another one up there with higher settings. Would something like that work, or will the one I already have. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+cmart604 Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Having said that, even without the power supply, you made out like a bandit. A boxed Diner on its own is worth at least ~$30 (US) depending on condition, and more if it's CIB. Yeah, the way I figured it, I don't know Inty game values, but I figure ANY classic game boxed (each of the other 2 have both overlays and manuals, and Diner is complete with manual)is worth at least $3. So even if the three games were dirt cheap (apparently Diner isn't), it's $9 worth of games for $2. Then I figured the box was probably worth $2 to a collector (including the little Inty Catalog that came with it), so I figured I couldn't lose too bad at that price anyway. You got a crazy deal! The box for the system probably adds $20 to it, plus Diner CIB if in great shape could fetch north of $50. Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaybird3rd Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Anyway, what are my options for hooking it up? Does the Atari 7800 Coax cable work? Are there any options for the power supply? Thanks. Just a regular RF modulator and RCA cable will do; if the ones you have work for the 7800, they'll work for the Intellivision, too. There is at least one composite video upgrade available for the Intellivision, but to be honest, the stock video from both of the main types of Intellivision consoles is very good (unless there's something wrong with the RF modulator), so I wouldn't bother unless RF is a serious inconvenience for you. I have the upgrade in my Intellivision II, but if I had to do it over again, I would have skipped it. Very nice deal on your Intellivision II lot, by the way. Like everyone said, Diner alone was worth many times what you paid for the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atarifever Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 Very nice deal on your Intellivision II lot, by the way. Like everyone said, Diner alone was worth many times what you paid for the whole thing. Thanks! It's good to know this, as this was the first thing I'd found in the wild in about three years that I thought was worth buying. It's also the first time I'd seen anything at a yard sale from that era in longer than that. It seems like these used to be at every third sale when I didn't collect, and then when I started collecting Ataris and their contemporaries and stuff were every once in awhile. For the last three years yard sales have been all NES or newer for me until this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApolloBoy Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Here's what I have in the adaptor bag (I don't even own some of these systems anymore) Genesis Gamegear NES SNES Famiclone Flashback 2 Anything in there pull it off? I'm afraid to just mix and match without knowing if any of those will kill the system. None of those will fit in the INTV II, so you'll need a power supply that'll fit and has the right amperage (950 mA or greater). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atarifever Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 None of those will fit in the INTV II, so you'll need a power supply that'll fit and has the right amperage (950 mA or greater). This is my main question then I guess: I can't tell from looking, but is the power connector an odd shape (like the 7800 adaptor end) or will I likely be able to find something to fit on one of those universal adaptors? I can't tell from looking at the slot on the system. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaybird3rd Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Thanks! It's good to know this, as this was the first thing I'd found in the wild in about three years that I thought was worth buying. It's also the first time I'd seen anything at a yard sale from that era in longer than that. It seems like these used to be at every third sale when I didn't collect, and then when I started collecting Ataris and their contemporaries and stuff were every once in awhile. For the last three years yard sales have been all NES or newer for me until this. The 2600 and Intellivision systems are thirty-something years old now, so I think it's increasingly unlikely that we'll find them floating around in the wild as much as we did in the past. Many of those pieces of hardware and software that have survived have found their way into the hands of collectors, or are still locked away in long-term storage waiting to be rediscovered and put back into circulation. Ah, I missed your earlier question about the power supply. The Intellivision II used a somewhat unusual power supply, and they can be difficult to find, but 4Jays offers a new third-party power supply which is compatible with the Intellivision II for about $18. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApolloBoy Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 This is my main question then I guess: I can't tell from looking, but is the power connector an odd shape (like the 7800 adaptor end) or will I likely be able to find something to fit on one of those universal adaptors? I can't tell from looking at the slot on the system. Thanks. It's a barrel tip, but the pin in the center is a bit thick, hence why it won't fit a Genesis power supply and the like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atarifever Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 This is my main question then I guess: I can't tell from looking, but is the power connector an odd shape (like the 7800 adaptor end) or will I likely be able to find something to fit on one of those universal adaptors? I can't tell from looking at the slot on the system. Thanks. It's a barrel tip, but the pin in the center is a bit thick, hence why it won't fit a Genesis power supply and the like. Ah, I see. The one I got for the Lynx can accomodate several pin sizes, but only goes to 12V. I'll have to check the other one tomorrow. Here's my problem with buying one online. Once I buy an adaptor and pay shipping (if I can't use the local one) I'm at over $20. If I get the adaptor from, say, 4Jays, and the system doesn't power up, do I assume the system is broken or that the adaptor is faulty? Chances are it would be the system given that 4Jays checks their stuff, but who knows. Now I'm buying a voltage tester to check it out. Then I'm left wondering if perhaps it would have worked if I had bought an original adaptor instead of the third party one. For all that I am out the $20+, and the $2 I spent on my "great deal." The games are still a steal, but at that point I can't play them and have to sell them to make it worth my trouble over the adaptor. See, that's the problem with this system being untested. If it works and I can get a cheap adaptor local, I'm starting an Inty collection. If it doesn't work, I have to decide to lay out money to become a collector buying a whole new system and potentially a wasted adaptor in the meantime, or I have to sell the best deal on games I got in three years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atarifever Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 Okay, I need advice from anyone smarter than me regarding electronics: What 4Jays sells for the Inty II is a third party Universal adapter that is 900mA and 16V. The Inty II is supposed to run on an adapter at 950mA and 16.2V. 4Jays says on their site that their option, despite those differences, works just fine. Locally, I have found that "The Source" sells a ton of universal adapters, but none that were there had the settings of either the proper Inty II ones or the 4Jays one. How close do I need to come here? It is obvious from the one 4Jays sells that exactly right on doesn't seem to be required. The closest I saw at The Source on an AC supply was 1000mA and 18V, but given that both those numbers are higher, even with my limited knowledge, I assume that would basically kill the system, right? They do have a barrel tip head for sale there that does fit the Inty II, so if I could find the correct (or close enough) adapter there, it will fit. How close am I looking for? Is 50mA up a no no but 50mA down is okay? Does the voltage have to be within 1, or does it need to be closer? Thanks for any advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApolloBoy Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 I would suggest just getting a 9-10V power supply rated at 1A. The polarity doesn't matter since the INTV II uses an AC power supply and will work fine with a DC power supply of any polarity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaybird3rd Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 The 4Jays adapter should be fine. I don't quite know why Mattel went with such an unusual power adapter (they must have gotten them cheap), but the original values are not super-critical. The adapter that I've used with my Intellivision II for at least two years is 12VAC 1200mA. The first number is the amount of voltage the power supply outputs, and the second number is the amount of current it can provide. As long as the second number is at least as large as that of the original power supply, it should be fine. The console will draw only as much current as it needs, so it doesn't matter if the new power supply can provide more; that simply means that it has some extra capacity that won't be used. The 4Jays adapter is rated at 900mA instead of 950mA, but it would probably still be within spec at 950mA (even if the console is drawing that much; it might actually be drawing less). The voltage is obviously more critical; if it's too high, you'll burn out the console, and if it's too low, the console will be starved of power and will start acting strangely. Again, there is some variance here, and since my 12V adapter has worked perfectly for me, I think you'll be fine with any value between 12VAC and 16VAC. Also: don't worry about polarity. That's a concept that only applies to adapters which output DC power, not AC power (which is what the Intellivision II requires). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atarifever Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 I would suggest just getting a 9-10V power supply rated at 1A. The polarity doesn't matter since the INTV II uses an AC power supply and will work fine with a DC power supply of any polarity. So any power supply reading 1A (this sounds dumb but I assume that is 1000mA right?)and 9-10VDC? Am I reading that correct (because I'm pretty sure they had exactly that in the store). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApolloBoy Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 I would suggest just getting a 9-10V power supply rated at 1A. The polarity doesn't matter since the INTV II uses an AC power supply and will work fine with a DC power supply of any polarity. So any power supply reading 1A (this sounds dumb but I assume that is 1000mA right?)and 9-10VDC? Am I reading that correct (because I'm pretty sure they had exactly that in the store). Yes, that should work fine. Just make sure the tip fits and you're good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaybird3rd Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Yes, that should work fine. Just make sure the tip fits and you're good to go. The power supply he's talking about is DC, though, not AC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atarifever Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 Yes, that should work fine. Just make sure the tip fits and you're good to go. The power supply he's talking about is DC, though, not AC. And if I am understanding you guys, it doesn't matter if it says AC or DC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaybird3rd Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 And if I am understanding you guys, it doesn't matter if it says AC or DC? I wouldn't use a DC power supply with a console that requires AC. Some people have said that it doesn't matter, but I don't see how it could work. AC adapters are usually easy enough to find, so why risk it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atarifever Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 (edited) And if I am understanding you guys, it doesn't matter if it says AC or DC? I wouldn't use a DC power supply with a console that requires AC. Some people have said that it doesn't matter, but I don't see how it could work. AC adapters are usually easy enough to find, so why risk it? Alright. I think I'll set my sights on anything in the range from 900mA+, and around 12VAC - 16VAC. I think they may have something in there. I may also try a 10V 1A (per Apolloboy's suggestion) if I can't get anything closer than that. Thanks a lot guys! Edited November 2, 2010 by Atarifever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApolloBoy Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 And if I am understanding you guys, it doesn't matter if it says AC or DC? I wouldn't use a DC power supply with a console that requires AC. Some people have said that it doesn't matter, but I don't see how it could work. AC adapters are usually easy enough to find, so why risk it? I used a DC power supply with my old INTV II and it worked fine. I also use a DC power supply with my NES and it has no issues whatsoever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haz Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) There is a INTV II on ebay right now, as is but comes with a working (according to the seller) power adapter. I need the controller for one I recently found with no numbers on the keypads. It's about $25 shipped, maybe we can work out a deal? I got mine at an estate sale for a quarter, if you can believe it. It works and came with everything and like 17 games, but I really want good controllers for it. Edited November 4, 2010 by haz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigO Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) And if I am understanding you guys, it doesn't matter if it says AC or DC? I wouldn't use a DC power supply with a console that requires AC. Some people have said that it doesn't matter, but I don't see how it could work. AC adapters are usually easy enough to find, so why risk it? It's a fairly safe bet that for a device designed to work off an AC adapter, the AC input is (full wave) rectified which converts the AC to a sorta DC which is then filtered to a relatively pure DC and regulated. Putting DC of either polarity into a full wave rectifier will just result in DC out with the proper polarity guaranteed. Basically. I'm about 90% sure that I've been running my INTV2 on a DC power supply, but it hasn't seen the light of day since I moved about 8 or 9 months ago. Edited November 4, 2010 by BigO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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