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1050 heat problem?


GTIA

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Hi all,

 

I've got a 1050 that has trouble reading sectors after it is at full operating temperature. It isn't that it can't read them, but it will sometimes pause a little--just enough to be noticeable. Or, at other times, it has to stop and re-read a sector.

 

Heat is the only thing I can think of. I don't think it's the belt stretching. I thought it might after the drive warms up, but the RPMs stay within an acceptable range whether the drive is warm or cold. (That's 285 when it's cold, and about 287.5 when it's warm.)

 

Thanks!

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To be sure it is related to "heat problems" just disconnect the power unit (9V ~) and use a regulated power unit providing +5V and +12V to the respective TPs on the pcb of the 1050. See the schematics for the 1050 first.

 

The 1050 will not get hot now and you can test it for other problem sources.

 

There's one disadvantage with it: the ON/OFF switch is out of function.

The advantage: No mods necessary. Just a cable connection.

 

My 1050's are fed this way for 20 years now and do not "get hot" anymore.

 

Hi all,

 

I've got a 1050 that has trouble reading sectors after it is at full operating temperature. It isn't that it can't read them, but it will sometimes pause a little--just enough to be noticeable. Or, at other times, it has to stop and re-read a sector.

 

Heat is the only thing I can think of. I don't think it's the belt stretching. I thought it might after the drive warms up, but the RPMs stay within an acceptable range whether the drive is warm or cold. (That's 285 when it's cold, and about 287.5 when it's warm.)

 

Thanks!

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and use a regulated power unit providing +5V and +12V

 

I know it's been mentioned somewhere but I suppose these TP's are just the outputs of the 78xx regulators? If so, are the 78xx's able to accept power input on their output's without damaging them or do I need to disconnect these?

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and use a regulated power unit providing +5V and +12V

 

I know it's been mentioned somewhere but I suppose these TP's are just the outputs of the 78xx regulators? If so, are the 78xx's able to accept power input on their output's without damaging them or do I need to disconnect these?

 

Nope! There's no power "working backwards" in the system. You do not need to disconnect anything. Please have a look at the schematics and you will see why.

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Hello GTIA

 

If, after you've tried Walter's suggestion and heat really is the problem, you want to keep using your Atari power supply, you could contact mega-hz. He developed a small PCB that will reduces the heat significantly.

 

sincerely

 

Mathy

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To be sure it is related to "heat problems" just disconnect the power unit (9V ~) and use a regulated power unit providing +5V and +12V to the respective TPs on the pcb of the 1050. See the schematics for the 1050 first.

 

 

Thanks for your help! Do you have suggestions regarding a regulated power unit? Where might I find one?

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Hello GTIA

 

If, after you've tried Walter's suggestion and heat really is the problem, you want to keep using your Atari power supply, you could contact mega-hz. He developed a small PCB that will reduces the heat significantly.

 

sincerely

 

Mathy

 

Thank you, Mathy. I'll look into that, as well.

 

Meantime, I'll see if I can give the drive a little tune up.

 

What about the drive alignment? Could it be that its head alignment is borderline, so that it goes slightly out of alignment once it warms up?

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To be sure it is related to "heat problems" just disconnect the power unit (9V ~) and use a regulated power unit providing +5V and +12V to the respective TPs on the pcb of the 1050. See the schematics for the 1050 first.

 

 

Thanks for your help! Do you have suggestions regarding a regulated power unit? Where might I find one?

Any PC power supply has regulated +5V/+12V power, and can be converted to a bench/desktop supply as documented here:

http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/POWERSUPPLY.HTM

 

There are also small external brick power supplies, similar to laptop power supplies, which plug directly into 3.5" HDD and which are commonly used with USB to bare IDE/SATA HDD adapters.

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 2207514836931?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=220751483693&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

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Thanks for your help! Do you have suggestions regarding a regulated power unit? Where might I find one?

Any PC power supply has regulated +5V/+12V power, and can be converted to a bench/desktop supply as documented here:

http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/POWERSUPPLY.HTM

 

There are also small external brick power supplies, similar to laptop power supplies, which plug directly into 3.5" HDD and which are commonly used with USB to bare IDE/SATA HDD adapters.

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 2207514836931?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=220751483693&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

Huh, this is quite some bunch of material and workload I am simply too lazy for ...

 

Keep it simple and do not drill or mod the cases. It is not necessary. See the photos and use any standard pc power supply.

The simple way doing this looks like that for a 1050 and a XF551 is even easier to feed with adding a y-cable.

post-18804-129982739668_thumb.jpg

post-18804-129982752404_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for your help! Do you have suggestions regarding a regulated power unit? Where might I find one?

Any PC power supply has regulated +5V/+12V power, and can be converted to a bench/desktop supply as documented here:

http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/POWERSUPPLY.HTM

 

There are also small external brick power supplies, similar to laptop power supplies, which plug directly into 3.5" HDD and which are commonly used with USB to bare IDE/SATA HDD adapters.

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 2207514836931?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=220751483693&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

Huh, this is quite some bunch of material and workload I am simply too lazy for ...

 

Keep it simple and do not drill or mod the cases. It is not necessary. See the photos and use any standard pc power supply.

The simple way doing this looks like that for a 1050 and a XF551 is even easier to feed with adding a y-cable.

The conversion on the web-page I linked does have options GTIA doesn't require, I expected he would be able to determine what had to be done to meet his needs and leave the rest.

 

As you say, the binding posts aren't necessary as the molex HDD connectors can be used. The other information about how to connect a switch and using a load resistor is still good. Some ATX power supplies have a power switch near the power cord connector, with one of these the 2 wires could just be connected together and the existing switch used instead.

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Thanks to both of you for your help. I've been practicing with a soldering iron on a dead 800 power board, but I don't know that I trust myself yet with working equipment. During spring break in the coming week, I hope to spend a little time with it.

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