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Atari Printers 825 and 1027


doctorclu

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Ok, first off I was thinking of using a 825 to match my 800, wow that thing is old.

 

Looks like I need a special printer cartridge for a ribbon feed for that. Anyone got one?

 

Also need the bit that hangs off the back.

 

 

As for the 1027 printer with the rubber printing track that falls apart in time, has there been a replacement?

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As for the 1027 printer with the rubber printing track that falls apart in time, has there been a replacement?

 

Not that I've seen. I think someone should try and find one that hasn't mushed (if they exist) and measure it. NOT try and use it first :)

 

Or perhaps someone has the specifications (size and letter ordering) of the little rubber piece, and someone could see about getting a replacement...

 

--Kurt

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As for the 1027 printer with the rubber printing track that falls apart in time, has there been a replacement?

 

Not that I've seen. I think someone should try and find one that hasn't mushed (if they exist) and measure it. NOT try and use it first :)

 

Or perhaps someone has the specifications (size and letter ordering) of the little rubber piece, and someone could see about getting a replacement...

 

--Kurt

 

The 1027 with the print quality print is interesting. Probably the slowest and most limited in font of all the Atari printers however. I looked to see if it was a repackaged printer, but so far I am not turning up anything. Getting another strike head for this might be an extreme challenge.

 

As for the 825, a repackaged Centronics 737 with a "Zip Case" ribbon module? Now that has some promise. And that 825 requires a special cable to a 850 interface. Wow....

 

Beige or not, I am getting tempted to continue using my 1025 printer, but would be nice to get the 825 working.

 

The 1027s I have would be nice just for resale value and as a trade item.

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Atari 825 - I bought several and none ever came with the rear dancer bar or paper roller, although everyone i bought from always included the cable and extra zip ribbon pack! I ended up buying one NIB for $125 from Best. They are sold out now...

 

EDIT: I have an Atari 825 with cable and zip ribbon for sale or trade. Make me an offer :)

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-------------------------------------------------------

 

Best Electronics printer part list here

 

Atari 1027 New fresh Black Ink Roller FC100626 $5.95

 

I'm actually looking for a replacement 1025 ribbon that not NOS, I know they are still made for certain applications but I can't remember what...

 

as for the 1027, try emailing Brad about the rollers... He will tell you he junked them several years ago as they all rotted to dust, there is no viable known replacement to make a 1027 workable.

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I have a 1027 Printer Still new in the box, its still wrapped in the original outer shrinkwrap with a K-Mart price tag of 299.99. I wonder if that print head is also gone?

 

Guess I will have to open it, to find out lol.

 

 

Robert Miller

 

It may be okay, until you try and print with it and it will explode, I had two NIB never used 1027 that I fired up last year and it was a mess!

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I have a 1027 Printer Still new in the box, its still wrapped in the original outer shrinkwrap with a K-Mart price tag of 299.99. I wonder if that print head is also gone?

 

Guess I will have to open it, to find out lol.

 

 

Robert Miller

 

It may be okay, until you try and print with it and it will explode, I had two NIB never used 1027 that I fired up last year and it was a mess!

 

Those print heads are a Hard Rubber aren't they? I wonder if using a Rubber Rejuvenater would work on them?

 

Here is a link to some chemicals to restore rubber flexibility. Don't know for sure, just a thought.

 

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/20-1890&green=23163530931&utm_campaign=MyBuys&utm_medium=Recommendation&utm_source=prod&utm_term=20-1890

 

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/productimages/s4/3852733.jpg

Best regards

 

Robert Miller

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I have a 1027 Printer Still new in the box, its still wrapped in the original outer shrinkwrap with a K-Mart price tag of 299.99. I wonder if that print head is also gone?

 

Guess I will have to open it, to find out lol.

 

 

Robert Miller

 

It may be okay, until you try and print with it and it will explode, I had two NIB never used 1027 that I fired up last year and it was a mess!

 

Those print heads are a Hard Rubber aren't they? I wonder if using a Rubber Rejuvenater would work on them?

 

Here is a link to some chemicals to restore rubber flexibility. Don't know for sure, just a thought.

 

http://www.mcmelectr...tm_term=20-1890

 

http://www.mcmelectr.../s4/3852733.jpg

Best regards

 

Robert Miller

 

All of that has been discussed to death in previous threads, doesn't work.. (not that I'm dogging on you, I know I don't keep track of every thread out there :) )

 

It's sad really as they are great printers.

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Ink Rollers are not what rotted to dust, it was instead the vinyl rubber printheads just the same as everybody elses' did. I still use my 1027 ink rollers to re-ink fabric ribbons for my Star printer and they are just as good as new. The ink is oil based and a very good substitute for store bought ink is plain old lampblack mixed with 10-40w of your choice. I've been using it since the late 80's on those very same 1027 ink rollers and they are still like new. Neoprene rubber should have been used in the first place and if so, we would not be having these conversations ever let alone again and again.

 

They were not hard rubber but should have been. Exactly what they were made of remains a mystery - I said vinyl rubber above only to distinguish them from the much more desirable hard rubber. I think they were vinyl but I have nothing other than my hunch to go on there. And obviously a vinyl that could not stand up to oil for a prolonged time. The foam ink rollers CAN and so can engine seals made of neoprene.

 

See firecracker making for a source for lampblack if you want to roll your own ink, you want to keep mixing it in until you notice for sure that the viscosity of the oil has just started to change - you don't want it thick but barely changed from straight oil. Man is it ever black, get some on you and it will be there for a week. It lasts about a third longer than store bought ink which I also have and use from time to time. I had to see what the competition was doing so I finally bought some.

 

That 1027 sure could make a really good looking letter. Even if it did take a while. I still love mine, but put it away when I got an XDM-121. Then a Star, then another one...

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