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how best to cut into plastic for a CV keypad


grips03

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I've been thinking about modding a controller to add in a CV keypad. I was thinking of using JB weld to make a jig of the keypad and then attach to the controller plastic and use a rotary tool remove the plastic for the keypad. Issue I think I'll have is the cutting bit would also cut into the JB weld jig and not leave a straight edge on the plastic.

 

I was then thinking of cutting a block of wood to say a 1/4 inch larger than the keypad on each side and then using the JB weld on the block of wood. This would then provide me with a larger jig where I could use some type of cutting bit that has a 1/4 inch guide on it.

 

Reason for the JB weld vs just cutting the proper size hole in a wood board, is that the surface of the controller is not flat and the JB weld might give me the ability to mold it a little bit before it sets.

 

Has anyone done this sort of thing?

 

Are there cutting bits with guides built in? Are these guides fixed or more like a bearing? I would like to use a Dremel type rotary tool and not a full size router.

 

thanks

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I looked at those and perhaps it would work, but might just be a little too much free hand unless I make a really good jig. It's certainly better than a full size router though. I wish mini milling machines were cheaper or perhaps a home CNC machine. I have access to a full size milling machine, so perhaps that's what I'll end up doing.

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I think a full sized milling machine would be where I'd go myself.

 

There are lots of plans for build-it-yourself CNC milling machine around on the internet. I'd bet you could build one for less than $500. I admit I haven't tried it yet, but I have been amassing parts that could be turned that way I guess. The hobby CNC mills seem to be mostly around $1200.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, here are the results with a full size milling machine. Keypad buttons don't interfere with playing, but I'm thinking I like the previous generation when I just used a NeoGeo to CV converter box and the keypad was on it. This does free up table space, but just doesn't seem like the way to go. Start is also mapped to * and Select to button 1.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20625046@N08/8345158278/in/photostream

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20625046@N08/8344099739/in/photostream

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20625046@N08/8345158110/in/photostream

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right, or $30 which is what this AES stick cost me. But its kind of growing on me - with the built in keypad. It can still be used with a Neo Geo if I want, but I have mostly Neo Geo stuff as I was collecting Neo Geo for many years so I have quite a few of those sticks. AES stick IMO is the best stick ever. On the right I've swapped to Seimitsu 24mm buttons as those are much better than the stock ones.

Edited by grips03
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NIAD, the hands come in from the lower left and right sides, hence bottom right would have not worked. This was the only place the keypad could go, so that the hands and fingers don't hit it during gameplay. Hmm, perhaps top/center might have worked.

 

Camera shows the NeoGeo logo part on the bottom/center due to flash, but during normal light its very hard to see as this controller had it rubbed off mostly, hence the reason it was used.

 

I used a KP-12 keypad from AllElectronics ($4.95), as its a little smaller than the Grayhill 86AC2-102 ($20) that I used on the NG to CV adapter.

Edited by grips03
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