HunterZero Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 on the power board check the solder joints on the 2 large capacitors. the next thing i would do is replace the ribbon cable. i have seen this happen in both ca-scenarios. Thanks for that! Will check and reflow those joints. I've already replaced the ribbon cable with an improved custom one with pin headers on both the logic board and power board, but will rebuild the cable. - James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+intvsteve Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 So what do you use to reflow joints? I considered getting a heat gun... is that the best bet? If so, what rating? I presently only have a really lame soldering iron that is a true pita to use. I've got a Sears Super Video Arcade that's acting a little goofy. When you start cold, it's got beautiful output. But as the unit warms up, the output gets weaker and weaker, eventually to where there's even audible static. It will drift, and get stronger for a bit, then weaken again, slowly. It may have a bad psg too, though I need to verify that the controllers are both good. Any ideas on what would cause the rf to drift in and out like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimpmaul69 Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 (edited) So what do you use to reflow joints? I considered getting a heat gun... is that the best bet? If so, what rating? I presently only have a really lame soldering iron that is a true pita to use. I've got a Sears Super Video Arcade that's acting a little goofy. When you start cold, it's got beautiful output. But as the unit warms up, the output gets weaker and weaker, eventually to where there's even audible static. It will drift, and get stronger for a bit, then weaken again, slowly. It may have a bad psg too, though I need to verify that the controllers are both good. Any ideas on what would cause the rf to drift in and out like that? soldering iron is best Edited October 16, 2013 by pimpmaul69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterZero Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 Yeah just a standard soldering iron. Heat the solder until it melts, then head the joint until the solder adheres, maybe replace the solder. For desoldering I have a solder sucker and Goot desoldering braid. I think the iron I have is only 20W, it has a temp control that allows vague control of temp, and it's been good enough. Haven't splashed the cash yet on a good soldering station, but was looking at a Hakko FX-888. I'm going to try letting the unit warm up until it starts flaking out, then comparing the voltages to see if the DC supply changes as the PSU warps up. Was going to try some freeze spray on the regulators. - James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterZero Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share Posted October 17, 2013 (edited) OK, pulled the power board and reflowed the large capacitor solder since they looked a little dodgy with what looked to be slight cracks. Resoldered a couple of other suspicious looking early 80's soldering efforts. Rebuilt a new ribbon cable. No change to the crashing, except it seems the power must be even more solid because the picture is super clear. So I recalled that D2K didn't seem to crash that way before I replaced the RAM chip, so I replaced the RAM chip again with another I luckily had on hand, and this time it seems all is good. The last RAM chip must have had a slight thermal issue. Played D2K past the 3rd elevators no problem. Finished AD&D on hard too - J Edited October 18, 2013 by HunterZero Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimpmaul69 Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 OK, pulled the power board and reflowed the large capacitor solder since they looked a little dodgy with what looked to be slight cracks. Resoldered a couple of other suspicious looking early 80's soldering efforts. Rebuilt a new ribbon cable. No change to the crashing, except it seems the power must be even more solid because the picture is super clear. So I recalled that D2K didn't seem to crash that way before I replaced the RAM chip, so I replaced the RAM chip again with another I luckily had on hand, and this time it seems all is good. The last RAM chip must have had a slight thermal issue. Played D2K past the 3rd elevators no problem. Finished AD&D on hard too - J glad you got it working. i was gonna ask you about the ram chip but i have been having problems with my laptop and internet has been locking up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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