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125 CIB, Maybe.


voltron

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I am 125 loose, but i just realized sometimes you may have cib and not know it. I remember Kefka wanted worm whomper and I told him I have several loose components and if i put it together there may be cib. Anyway one lot had an empty box, another has cart and manual, a different lot had the overlays. Together I already had a cib worm whomper. SO i was able to give kefka the game cib. So I have never bother previously to combine loks and reduce them to cib. But im thinkig I may have so many loose componentsfrom different lots that if I reduce them to cib I may already have 125cib and not 125 loose.

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I am 125 loose, but i just realized sometimes you may have cib and not know it. I remember Kefka wanted worm whomper and I told him I have several loose components and if i put it together there may be cib. Anyway one lot had an empty box, another has cart and manual, a different lot had the overlays. Together I already had a cib worm whomper. SO i was able to give kefka the game cib. So I have never bother previously to combine loks and reduce them to cib. But im thinkig I may have so many loose componentsfrom different lots that if I reduce them to cib I may already have 125cib and not 125 loose.

 

That's essentially what I do when I upgrade. I lay everything out on a table and move the best to the left and the worst to the right. Most of the overlays in my core collection are now unused because of all of the upgrading. As you figure out what you need, let me know. I can help you complete things, especially the commons.

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That's essentially what I do when I upgrade. I lay everything out on a table and move the best to the left and the worst to the right. Most of the overlays in my core collection are now unused because of all of the upgrading. As you figure out what you need, let me know. I can help you complete things, especially the commons.

 

The only issue I have with this is that I want the true original 125, so you have to be careful with mixing manuals, carts and overlays. Especially for the original group of games with the colour manuals. Just sayin. :)

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I am 125 loose, but i just realized sometimes you may have cib and not know it. I remember Kefka wanted worm whomper and I told him I have several loose components and if i put it together there may be cib. Anyway one lot had an empty box, another has cart and manual, a different lot had the overlays. Together I already had a cib worm whomper. SO i was able to give kefka the game cib. So I have never bother previously to combine loks and reduce them to cib. But im thinkig I may have so many loose componentsfrom different lots that if I reduce them to cib I may already have 125cib and not 125 loose.

Yes, it was a variant but I think the Brazilian Worm Whomper I sent was CIB... I really don't remember if it had the manuals and overlays. :P

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Yes, it was a variant but I think the Brazilian Worm Whomper I sent was CIB... I really don't remember if it had the manuals and overlays. :P

 

The brazillian Worm whomper was complete. I still have it. But a different member also needed a cib worm whomper. I had a nice empty worm whomper in one lot, a loose worm whomper cart in another, worm whomper overlays in a different lot, and instructions and a different, different lot. So I told the AA memeber I may have a cib game for him if I put the components together. And yes I had all the loose component to make one cib game.

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The only issue I have with this is that I want the true original 125, so you have to be careful with mixing manuals, carts and overlays. Especially for the original group of games with the colour manuals. Just sayin. :)

 

I totally agree. I try to be careful and keep like with like, so I have set a couple of ground rules, but depending on how much of a purist you are, I may be doing my games an injustice.

 

Intellivision Inc: I handle these separately from Mattel versions. Only exceptions would be where they use the standard Mattel overlays. If the paper or copyright-removed overlays are available, I'll try to use those regardless of condition. Otherwise, I'm OK swapping overlays between Intellivision Inc and Mattel boxes. Intellivision Inc manuals are a nightmare (Auto Racing :mad: ). I'm not sure which manual variations went with each box variation, but if I have 3 box variations and 3 manual variations and 3 cart label variations, I try to keep a total of 3 games and split up each. Down the road, if I ever get good info on how they originally matched up, I can reorganize them, but in the meantime I have everything, just mixed up.

 

Mattel games: These are much easier. I always keep the Hong Kong and USA versions separate and have actually corrected some mismatched ones I received in lots. All of my full color manuals are in the older style boxes (referencing the Keyboard Component) even if I have nicer boxes of the newer style. In my core 125, I have all USA where applicable with few exceptions (PGA Golf :mad: ). My biggest mixing offense is probably with mixing up overlay and manual variations. Most overlays only have 1 to 2 variations and I typically keep both, but manuals have as many as 5+ (Donkey Kong :mad: ). The older version is more "original", but the newer one likely corrected mistakes. If I have a nice DK box with a terrible condition Revision B manual and I have a spare Revision C DK manual in great condition, I'll likely swap it out, sacrificing originality for having a nice set. The one thing I wish I hadn't mixed up were the carts, more specifically the older shielded heavy ones. I'm on a search to find the original ones and swap them into my 125.

 

Overlays: Generally with overlays, I try to keep at least one pair of each revision, but like I said, I may swap and original with a G1 if it's an upgrade. Many of the lots I have received have had crazy mixed up and mismatched ones, so I think that my system generally does more Intellivision good than Intellivision harm. One steadfast rule I have, though, is that I try to never split up a nice pair. Based on the slight variation of coloring on the front and the different backing on the back, you can easily tell a pair from a mismatched set. I HATE mismatched sets, so if one overlay gets moved to a different box, they both get moved.

 

Like I said, I typically go to great lengths to only swap like with like, but you can go crazy chasing the Intelli-dragon down the subtle variation rabbit hole.

 

I know I'm rambling, but one more piece of neurotic bahaviour. I ordered multiple copies of many of the Intelligentvision homebrews (one to keep and one to play). With every set I received, I took the best of the best and kept it for my collection (keeping the second best copy to play). I looked for overlay imperfections, manual imperfections, manuals that were stapled slightly crooked, manuals that got slight creases during shipping, boxes assembled slightly crooked or that had slight dings, crooked cart labels, rusty screws, scratched cart housing, etc. I even took a few of the carts apart to replace rusted screws and to better clean the inside of the cart. Crazy I tell you!

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Like I said, I typically go to great lengths to only swap like with like, but you can go crazy chasing the Intelli-dragon down the subtle variation rabbit hole.

 

I know I'm rambling, but one more piece of neurotic bahaviour. I ordered multiple copies of many of the Intelligentvision homebrews (one to keep and one to play). With every set I received, I took the best of the best and kept it for my collection (keeping the second best copy to play). I looked for overlay imperfections, manual imperfections, manuals that were stapled slightly crooked, manuals that got slight creases during shipping, boxes assembled slightly crooked or that had slight dings, crooked cart labels, rusty screws, scratched cart housing, etc. I even took a few of the carts apart to replace rusted screws and to better clean the inside of the cart. Crazy I tell you!

 

Wow, I've always considered myself to be very anal rententive, possibly a bit over the edge even, but wow... :-o :-o

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The only issue I have with this is that I want the true original 125, so you have to be careful with mixing manuals, carts and overlays. Especially for the original group of games with the colour manuals. Just sayin. :)

Is there a thread where the games with color manuals is listed? I have six of them (APBA Backgammon, Checkers, LVP&BJ, Major League Baseball, NFL Football) but not sure about the four I'm missing.

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I totally agree. I try to be careful and keep like with like, so I have set a couple of ground rules, but depending on how much of a purist you are, I may be doing my games an injustice.

 

Intellivision Inc: I handle these separately from Mattel versions. Only exceptions would be where they use the standard Mattel overlays. If the paper or copyright-removed overlays are available, I'll try to use those regardless of condition. Otherwise, I'm OK swapping overlays between Intellivision Inc and Mattel boxes. Intellivision Inc manuals are a nightmare (Auto Racing :mad: ). I'm not sure which manual variations went with each box variation, but if I have 3 box variations and 3 manual variations and 3 cart label variations, I try to keep a total of 3 games and split up each. Down the road, if I ever get good info on how they originally matched up, I can reorganize them, but in the meantime I have everything, just mixed up.

 

Mattel games: These are much easier. I always keep the Hong Kong and USA versions separate and have actually corrected some mismatched ones I received in lots. All of my full color manuals are in the older style boxes (referencing the Keyboard Component) even if I have nicer boxes of the newer style. In my core 125, I have all USA where applicable with few exceptions (PGA Golf :mad: ). My biggest mixing offense is probably with mixing up overlay and manual variations. Most overlays only have 1 to 2 variations and I typically keep both, but manuals have as many as 5+ (Donkey Kong :mad: ). The older version is more "original", but the newer one likely corrected mistakes. If I have a nice DK box with a terrible condition Revision B manual and I have a spare Revision C DK manual in great condition, I'll likely swap it out, sacrificing originality for having a nice set. The one thing I wish I hadn't mixed up were the carts, more specifically the older shielded heavy ones. I'm on a search to find the original ones and swap them into my 125.

 

Overlays: Generally with overlays, I try to keep at least one pair of each revision, but like I said, I may swap and original with a G1 if it's an upgrade. Many of the lots I have received have had crazy mixed up and mismatched ones, so I think that my system generally does more Intellivision good than Intellivision harm. One steadfast rule I have, though, is that I try to never split up a nice pair. Based on the slight variation of coloring on the front and the different backing on the back, you can easily tell a pair from a mismatched set. I HATE mismatched sets, so if one overlay gets moved to a different box, they both get moved.

 

Like I said, I typically go to great lengths to only swap like with like, but you can go crazy chasing the Intelli-dragon down the subtle variation rabbit hole.

 

I know I'm rambling, but one more piece of neurotic bahaviour. I ordered multiple copies of many of the Intelligentvision homebrews (one to keep and one to play). With every set I received, I took the best of the best and kept it for my collection (keeping the second best copy to play). I looked for overlay imperfections, manual imperfections, manuals that were stapled slightly crooked, manuals that got slight creases during shipping, boxes assembled slightly crooked or that had slight dings, crooked cart labels, rusty screws, scratched cart housing, etc. I even took a few of the carts apart to replace rusted screws and to better clean the inside of the cart. Crazy I tell you!

 

Nothing you've said here is weird Jason, it just means you have the disease. :-D

 

Yes, you must keep the US and Hong Kong versions separate if at all possible. As you've mentioned, sometimes you must keep a less than perfect box on the shelves in the quest for the true original 125. :twisted:

We need to make a list of the heavier shielded carts...I'm trying to think off the top of my head if that list extended much past the original releases? :ponder:

 

Always keep the overlays together, it'll always bug you if you've split them up. :lolblue:

 

None of this is crazy....well at least not to those of us afflicted with the same disease.

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Is there a thread where the games with color manuals is listed? I have six of them (APBA Backgammon, Checkers, LVP&BJ, Major League Baseball, NFL Football) but not sure about the four I'm missing.

 

I found that Checkers, Math Fun, and Roulette were the toughest to obtain. I found Basketball and Armor Battle by just looking through my boxed games, but these are also pretty rare, IMO. LV P&B, Backgammon, MLB, Football, and Space Battle are relatively easy to find. Math Fun also seems to be showing up more often. When I was hunting it, there was a dry spell.

 

They are a FUN subset to collect and they look great. I'm currently working on set #2 (I want to keep one set with the boxes and another standalone set). I had part of a second set, but I gave 5 to Voltron a while back.

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I found that Checkers, Math Fun, and Roulette were the toughest to obtain. I found Basketball and Armor Battle by just looking through my boxed games, but these are also pretty rare, IMO. LV P&B, Backgammon, MLB, Football, and Space Battle are relatively easy to find. Math Fun also seems to be showing up more often. When I was hunting it, there was a dry spell.

 

They are a FUN subset to collect and they look great. I'm currently working on set #2 (I want to keep one set with the boxes and another standalone set). I had part of a second set, but I gave 5 to Voltron a while back.

 

I've been going through all the duplicates in the hopes that I've overlooked one of the colored versions... I've added Math Fun and am missing Armor Battle, Roulette and Basketball - the harder ones to find of course.

 

Good luck with finishing up your 2nd set.

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I totally agree. I try to be careful and keep like with like, so I have set a couple of ground rules, but depending on how much of a purist you are, I may be doing my games an injustice.

 

Intellivision Inc: I handle these separately from Mattel versions. Only exceptions would be where they use the standard Mattel overlays. If the paper or copyright-removed overlays are available, I'll try to use those regardless of condition. Otherwise, I'm OK swapping overlays between Intellivision Inc and Mattel boxes. Intellivision Inc manuals are a nightmare (Auto Racing :mad: ). I'm not sure which manual variations went with each box variation, but if I have 3 box variations and 3 manual variations and 3 cart label variations, I try to keep a total of 3 games and split up each. Down the road, if I ever get good info on how they originally matched up, I can reorganize them, but in the meantime I have everything, just mixed up.

 

Mattel games: These are much easier. I always keep the Hong Kong and USA versions separate and have actually corrected some mismatched ones I received in lots. All of my full color manuals are in the older style boxes (referencing the Keyboard Component) even if I have nicer boxes of the newer style. In my core 125, I have all USA where applicable with few exceptions (PGA Golf :mad: ). My biggest mixing offense is probably with mixing up overlay and manual variations. Most overlays only have 1 to 2 variations and I typically keep both, but manuals have as many as 5+ (Donkey Kong :mad: ). The older version is more "original", but the newer one likely corrected mistakes. If I have a nice DK box with a terrible condition Revision B manual and I have a spare Revision C DK manual in great condition, I'll likely swap it out, sacrificing originality for having a nice set. The one thing I wish I hadn't mixed up were the carts, more specifically the older shielded heavy ones. I'm on a search to find the original ones and swap them into my 125.

 

Overlays: Generally with overlays, I try to keep at least one pair of each revision, but like I said, I may swap and original with a G1 if it's an upgrade. Many of the lots I have received have had crazy mixed up and mismatched ones, so I think that my system generally does more Intellivision good than Intellivision harm. One steadfast rule I have, though, is that I try to never split up a nice pair. Based on the slight variation of coloring on the front and the different backing on the back, you can easily tell a pair from a mismatched set. I HATE mismatched sets, so if one overlay gets moved to a different box, they both get moved.

 

Like I said, I typically go to great lengths to only swap like with like, but you can go crazy chasing the Intelli-dragon down the subtle variation rabbit hole.

 

I know I'm rambling, but one more piece of neurotic bahaviour. I ordered multiple copies of many of the Intelligentvision homebrews (one to keep and one to play). With every set I received, I took the best of the best and kept it for my collection (keeping the second best copy to play). I looked for overlay imperfections, manual imperfections, manuals that were stapled slightly crooked, manuals that got slight creases during shipping, boxes assembled slightly crooked or that had slight dings, crooked cart labels, rusty screws, scratched cart housing, etc. I even took a few of the carts apart to replace rusted screws and to better clean the inside of the cart. Crazy I tell you!

 

This sounds like me when I was trying to complete my Final Fantasy collection. I would win several games in lots and I would look at the serial numbers on things to match up properly labeled and colored manuals. It took me a while to get everything completely original. I can't imagine the nightmare in trying to do it with Intellivision variants. Yikes lol.

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