boxpressed Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 I just received a four-port 5200 that was described as not outputting video -- just a black screen. I hoped it was a problem with the PS or switch box, but I tested the console with spares of each with no luck. After reading some of the 5200 "black screen" threads, I'm ready to start swapping ICs from other 5200s I have. As anticipated, the RF shield is a beast. I've managed to twist the tabs back to their original position, but the RF shield still seems stuck to the PCB. It's almost as if it is glued down. I don't want to break the PCB or anything else by using force, so I was wondering if there was some trick to lifting up the RF shield after the tabs no longer obstruct the removal. Here's a photo. This is a four-port asterisk model, by the way. Thanks for any advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow460 Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Last time, I just ripped it offa there. I don't recommend trying that, though! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohoki Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 ive always just bent the tabs up maybe you missed one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightestEnd Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 When logic and composure do not suffice. RIP IT TO HELL UNTIL IT WORKS. :3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Mitch Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Several of those tabs don't look very straight, get some needle nose pliers and make them look factory straight. I bet it will come off just fine. Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiddlepaddle Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Sometimes a bit of rust can "glue" it together. After double checking all tabs, try sliding a blade between pieces of sheet-metal. I guess it's possible somebody previously took it apart and used something to afix it under the tabs, but probably unlikely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chas10e Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 (edited) there is an RF Sheild on the bottom of the board as well ... those tabs are attached to that sheild and feed through the board. Several of those tabs don't look very straight, get some needle nose pliers and make them look factory straight. I bet it will come off just fine. Mitch the tumbnail looks like you miseed a couple lower left & upper right in by heatsink Sometimes a bit of rust can "glue" it together. After double checking all tabs, try sliding a blade between pieces of sheet-metal. I guess it's possible somebody previously took it apart and used something to afix it under the tabs, but probably unlikely. start in one corner with screwdriver just to get some movement ... the suck tabs will reveal themselves as you work around perimeter .... get blade under & twist just a bit ... forcing it will make it probably imossible to put back on after I got both my sheilds off , I teporarily re-assembled them off the board just so everything would stay in line ... a couple of the tabs did break just from straightening ... but my console was rusted pretty bad there. Black screen could also be a dirty or dead cart .... just to rule things out EDIT: just looked @ pic again .... looks like some pins on gameport are bent (possably dirty as well) Edited April 17, 2013 by chas10e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpressed Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 Thanks for the help. I left a couple of tabs unbent (upper right) because I need finer needlenose pliers to fit in the space. I'll pick some up and straighten every tab out a little more, see if that does anything. I was thinking that if I straightened most of them, the shield would "give" a little bit, but now I think that won't happen until all of the tabs are straight because the shield is connected from underneath the PCB (as noted by the previous poster). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertski Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 When I removed mine, I had to use real tight cutters to cut some of the tabs off. It was still a pain to get it off, and its not going back on. Also, what holds the rest of the board in the housing, I cannot release it from the thing, and I dont want to jam it around anymore for fear of breaking something.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertski Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Yeah, if you've got a lot of rust and some bent pins, I would just suggest cleaning everything up, and straightening those pins.. Still, there may be other problems, hope it can be fixed.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chas10e Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 When I removed mine, I had to use real tight cutters to cut some of the tabs off. It was still a pain to get it off, and its not going back on. Also, what holds the rest of the board in the housing, I cannot release it from the thing, and I dont want to jam it around anymore for fear of breaking something.. I recall now the board is held into the bottom of the outer case still by some very tight fitting plastic nubs ( I was very nervous as I was lifting it ... they are alignment pins .... steady pressure & a bit of wiggling released it. .... I may have put a bit of lubicant on the pins ... very lower left & right corners of board ... can see the holes in pic above ---------------------------------------- I took the cartridge out of my unit & powered it up getting a black screen.... you should have a red LED light under the power button either way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpressed Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 (edited) Well, I straightened all of the tabs the best I could with the pliers I have. It seems as though the shield should give some "slack." I will pick up another pair of pliers or some kind of crimping tool to get them super straight, but it still seems as though I am missing something... Also, I tried to push that one pin back into alignment, but it keeps popping back to where it is in the photo. I cleaned the pins with contact cleaner, and I'll try some Deoxit on it later. Edited April 17, 2013 by boxpressed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertski Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 If the pin bent and has a cold solder joint at that point of the circuit board, you might try this. POWER OFF.. plug cart in. jam the cart towards the back.. POWER ON. POWER OFF.. plug cart in. jam the cart towards the front.. POWER ON. Hold the cart either front or back.. POWER OFF.. WIGGLE THE cart a little. POWER ON.. This may work, and if it does, all you need to do is resolder the Pins in the cartridge port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpressed Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 Success! I removed the RF shield without breaking any tabs. Man, you have to get them super straight. I used a tool that looks like this -- better than the pliers on my Leatherman. Going to try robertski's suggestion next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpressed Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 OK, no dice on robertski's suggestions, so I'm ready to start swapping ICs (once I remove another RF shield ). What's the best method to lift the IC out of the socket? I think I'll start with the GTIA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_ Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 OK, no dice on robertski's suggestions, so I'm ready to start swapping ICs (once I remove another RF shield ). What's the best method to lift the IC out of the socket? I think I'll start with the GTIA. How did you make out? I normally use a small flat screw driver insert under the chip and twist on one side, then the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpressed Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 (edited) How did you make out? I normally use a small flat screw driver insert under the chip and twist on one side, then the other. Thanks for that suggestion -- I'll give it a shot later. I may not be able to update on progress until later in the weekend because of how time consuming it will be to take apart another 5200! I'm guessing that because the GTIA says "5200 only" on it that I wouldn't be able to use one from an Atari 800, right? Edited April 19, 2013 by boxpressed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_ Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 (edited) Thanks for that suggestion -- I'll give it a shot later. I may not be able to update on progress until later in the weekend because of how time consuming it will be to take apart another 5200! I'm guessing that because the GTIA says "5200 only" on it that I wouldn't be able to use one from an Atari 800, right? I don't think so, a GTIA from an 800 should work. As long as it is a GTIA, didn't the early 8 bits use a different chip? CTIA or something..... Maybe you need an XL or XE for a GTIA? Edited April 19, 2013 by Official Ninja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpressed Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 Early 400s and 800s used a CTIA (I have one of those), but most 800s used a GTIA. I think I'm going to try the one from the 800 first because I have a for-parts only 800 already. Maybe its RF shield will be easier to deal with too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpressed Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 Well, I decided to go ahead and open up a working 4-port 5200. It took less time this time around. Unfortunately, the GTIA swap did not fix the other unit, and the broken unit's GTIA works just fine with the other board. What's next? RAM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertski Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Do you want me to look into the SERVICE MANUAL for this? you gotta black screen.. It may well have some things to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertski Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 1>IS +5V on output of VR1? IF this is 11V or more, then the TR1 is defective.. Do not do anything if VR1 is defective as you will only damage more. 2>Is a 1.78975Mhz signal present at PIN30 of U5? 3>Check all transistors. I always check the Collector at about 1V. If not at about 1V but 0, then something is wrong. Sorry, the rest is pretty complicated but, these can be done in 10 seconds with a DVM. - a basic meter.. Hope this is helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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