napes Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I'm fresh to these forums, so hello Recently picked up an very sad 1040STFM, which amazingly booted up. But it's got problems... hoping to get some help troubleshooting the following: - Keyboard doesn't appear to work at all. - Right Shift key stays stuck down - suspect a busted spring? - printer hdrive & modem ports are pretty badly corroded. - Not sure of the state of the disk drive yet (no disks to test just yet) - but the drive was sloshing about inside the case as half of the screws are missing! The good: - It boots! - Controller port appears to work (tested with a C64 joystick) - moves the cursor around. - RF has been replaced with a composite video RCA. I have opened it up, and checked out connections etc, and visually all appears OK. Would especially like some pointers on troubleshooting the keyboard. Thanks in advance (n) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_ Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I'm fresh to these forums, so hello Recently picked up an very sad 1040STFM, which amazingly booted up. But it's got problems... hoping to get some help troubleshooting the following: - Keyboard doesn't appear to work at all. - Right Shift key stays stuck down - suspect a busted spring? - printer hdrive & modem ports are pretty badly corroded. - Not sure of the state of the disk drive yet (no disks to test just yet) - but the drive was sloshing about inside the case as half of the screws are missing! The good: - It boots! - Controller port appears to work (tested with a C64 joystick) - moves the cursor around. - RF has been replaced with a composite video RCA. I have opened it up, and checked out connections etc, and visually all appears OK. Would especially like some pointers on troubleshooting the keyboard. Thanks in advance (n) Hello. Could be that the Mylar in the keyboard is damaged. I've never had a 1040 kb open, only a MSTE kb.... You can get a replacement Mylar from Best electronics but it may be easier (and cost about the same) to get another 1040 from eBay. When got my first STf from eBay I remember getting a second not long after to gather the parts from both to make a working whole. Remember that an STf can not output RCA composite like an STFM can. A STf is going to need a monitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadgetUK Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Start by taking the keyboard appart. Take it out (as a complete unit) after disconnecting the connector joining to the motherboard. Then remove the 50 odd screws underneath the keyboard. Be careful when you lift the PCB off as the rubber molding will fly all over if you arent careful. If memory serves there will be 1 short when you come to put them all back into the key holes - the return key has spaces for two but only needs one. I think on very old models both holes had a rubber plunger so you could luck out and use the spare if there is one from the return key. If its the rubber under the shift key that has worn there are normally spares on ebay. Wipe the PCB with a damp cloth and wipe it dry - but dont put pressure on, just lightly. Whilst you are there solder the 9 pins on the 2 joystick ports as they nearly always have dry joints. Then re-assemble and re-test. Not sure what you mean about ports being corroded? Could you post some photots? You can clean up rust with small wire brush, or fine sand paper. I tend to then clean with isoprop alchohol, and where it permits I actually use Brasso to clean stubborn rust areas. Then I tend to wipe over those areas with a paper towel with WD40 on it, just to give it a coating to try and stop rust coming back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DarkLord Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I usually take 2 small 2x4 ends and place then at either end of the keyboard, just catching the lip before the keys actually start. That way, when you take the back off, the keys hang down instead of pushing up through their holes. HTHs. PS It doesn't have to be 2x4's of course - anything, even 2 books would work just as good... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
napes Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 Thanks for the tips and breakdowns - much appreciated - and I'll run with those. Will also post how I get on - though next chance I'll have to play with it won't be for a week or so. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadgetUK Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 I usually take 2 small 2x4 ends and place then at either end of the keyboard, just catching the lip before the keys actually start. That way, when you take the back off, the keys hang down instead of pushing up through their holes. HTHs. PS It doesn't have to be 2x4's of course - anything, even 2 books would work just as good... Yes, i've done similar things in the past - if you want to avoid having to deal with all the rubber plungers etc it can save you some time. Until the table gets nudged and one side slips off its support and bam rubber plungers fly everywhere (been there, done that lol). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadgetUK Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Btw, that clear plastic that covers some of the screws, just peel it at edges to reveal the screws - it will stick back down afterwards. Its too thick to easily just pierce etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz73 Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 I had one serial port pin corrode on my old 520STm, back in the day. It had a white, crusty coating growing on it, so I used a little CLR and an eye-dropper to apply it to that silly pin. Problem solved! Thanks! Louis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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